The Bogan

http://www.carpoint.com.au/all-cars/bncis/details.aspx?Cr=2&R=12566324&keywords=&trecs=67&__sid=137850451BD6&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_Price_Decimal|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&__Qpb=1&__Nne=15&SearchAction=N&seot=1&__N=1216 1246 4294963800 4294963801 4294739757&silo=1011

making 350 on low boost and about 380 on high ATM, the oil is Nulon. Thanks, Mark

Tomei pump 10 - 40 oil in a newish (5000k) motor Thanks, Mark

Im running around 90 psi or 6 bar at around 6000rpm, Im wondering if this may be causing some of my oil problems, Ive read that some are running 70 psi, Im able to lower my oil pressure by a bleed system and Im wondering what would be the best/safest psi to run.. What oil pressures are you guys/girls running. Thanks, Mark

Being a Sydney boy the Skylines nationals would be my pick for making a weekend of it, plus I want to see some of the older classic, I take my hat off to the classic car guys, so much time and effort finding or chasing parts, its not like they can go down the local wreckers and find parts fo most of these cars.

Pics taken from NSCC http://www.nissansportscarclub.org/forum/showthread.php?p=60033#post60033

How is you car comming along mate ?

3500 RPM = 150 RWKW 400 nm 4000 RPM = 210 RWKW 500 nm 4500 RPM = 300 RWKW 610 nm 5000 RPM = 355 RWKW 660 nm 5500 RPM = 395 RWKW 655 nm 6000 RPM = 412 RWKW 645 nm 6500 RPM = 412 RWKW 590 nm 7200 RPM = 412 RWKW 545 nm Limited to 7500 RPM, and running out of injectors

Triple Webbers for the win, I had this setup on my old Torrie, HAPPY DAYS.

138 Grey Motor, KING OF THE WORLD

Im sure my TO4Z dragging in air at 24lb would be creating a bit more turbulance than a little bit of wire in a POD, a POD is only a advantage if it has a heat shield and CAI on motors that need more unrestricted air flow, try doing a hydrometer test on the intake pipe to see any difference. Results cannot be taken on the dyno, results need to be done whislt the car has the bonnet down on the road/track, if you want a accurate result do a hydrometer test, otherwise you are just pissing in the wind.

Mine still spat a little bit of oil on Saturday at Wakie, not much, only a few mills, but enough for me to drop my show bags and go back to the drawing board for a little while.

No, you need the baffles to knock out the oil. It might work for the street but I dare say it would be a fail at the track

Track was great, nice and clean, not many offs by other people, the only time there was some rubbish on the track (parts off some red car that did have a off) it was cleaned up in about 5 minutes. Groups were about 8 cars, only problems were people doing 1:17 that were pushing in and getting on the track before everyone else and holding up traffic, but that only lasted one session as I think something was said, I did have a ball blowing by a few V8s down the back and main straights, LOL,a few sore losers, I overheard a few "jap crap turbo car" calls. All in all bring on Skyline Nationals. I do want Ksport brake kit now though, Im looking at the Just Jap kit and will most likely bite the bullet and get them next week if they give me my usual happy discount, and maybe some good semis next year. Was one of the best days Ive had there.

VCT, oh wait no it doesnt, all its got is 100cc. Me, for a RWD Skyline I would be building up a RB25 NEO head on a RB30, would end up cheaper than a 26 build but more torque at a lower RPM, and you dont need to rev it hard to make power, just change gear and your in the fat spot in the torque curve. You cannot beat cubic inches. But as stated before, what car will it be going in( THIS IS A BIG FACTOR)as this is a nissan based site, Skyline RWD oR 4WD/S15/Datsun 120Y/300zx (engine out) legal/engineered, trackdays/superspints/drags do you want to run in a specific class, is getting 300klm a tank a issue, and as for getting some driving skills do some driver training, you can still go out on a low boost setting till you get use to the power. Remember you may need different mounts/gearbox/brakes/diff/fuel system ect ect ect I say make up a real time budget first and a time line for the build, THEN, triple the budget and timeline and you should get close to the final tally. Me, I would like to build a 62 EK Holden with my current 25/30 motor, BUT, to do this I have estimated a total build cost of $60,000 which would no doubtably blow out to at least $100,000 or more. Or just buy something you like already built and save thousands. FWIW, Ive spent around $50,000 on a car that in the current market would sell for $12,000, dont get me wrong, the car is a animal and the most fun you can have with your pants on, but when I started the build I just wanted something for street use with the occassional track day, LOL.... Have fun deciding MOOOORRREEEEEEEEEEEE POWWWAAAAARRRRRSSSSSSSSSSS.

Yes and it was 99% better, still had a small amount of slatter that got through the covers/baffles and catch can, only a couple of mills/drops though, I didnt drip down from the car to the track but it was still annoying. To fix the problem Im going to get fabed up another catch tank which will be removeable or have a tap in it to drain it when it gets some in it, even after a full track day I think there would be no more than 10 to 20 mills in it. The first session I just plodded around and it was fine, the second session I got up it a little bit more and that was fine, the third session I thrashed the bejesus out of it, changing gears when the shift light flashed and trying to keep it on the boil, thats when it spat a little. Awesome fun day with a PB and big four wheel drifts, the Hankooks although only classed as a street tyre were great, no nasty moments with them at all even when doing four wheel drifts through the corners. With a few more sessions under my belt I can smell single figures. Ill fix up the little issue of the oil and give her some maintanance like new pads and stuff and then.... Come on Skyline Nationals.

New PB for me on Hankook Ventus RS3, 1:10.6. Good day was had.

http://www.carmate.com.au/ http://www.blitsbodykits.com.au/nissan.html http://justjap.com/store/home.php?cat=261

Engine rebuild 2 yrs ago (ish), coolant changed every oil change which is after every track day or on average 1000klm. Track day tomorrow, this thread reminded me to check filter and clean. Here is what it stops going through the system; The proof is in the pudding.

Filter is good, Ive got one, when I had my engine rebuilt they installed one, it caught a heap of silicon and other shit from the rebuild, even though the motor was chemicaly cleaned it still got little bits of shit, mine is a RB25/30 so the block well over 20 yrs old, over that time no matter how good you maintain it the metals will breakdown, where does these little bits of rust and gunk go, through your water pump and/or blocking the cores of your radiator, unless you have a filter. If they were not any use they wouldnt put them on new trucks and heavy plant, all our new trucks and heavy plant have colling system filters. But if you happy to damage water pumps or have blockages in your radiator dont use one.

This is what we did to stop and oil splattering around and coming out the vents, a perferated baffle plate was installed and pipe was put in to stop the oil having easy access when the oil pushes to the side under high cornering load, stainless wool was placed at the lower section to stop the oil having a easy path. It seemed the only track that made it spit oil was Wakefield, being a left handed track the oil in the can on hard right hand corners would slosh to the side ond spit out. Ive also installed RB26 covers with the Mines baffles. 10/40 oil ATM Im going there tommorrow, lets hope it fixes the problem.

With the track like that (I'm no expert) it should keep the emos and wrecksies in line, its only a couple of more corners than a oval. Would be good for a HP RWD car with good driver, I've got the car but my balls are to small to go as fast as the car could take me.

If all goes well this Saturday I should be in. Spectators are free

If its got VCT it needs one for that, but for the two in the block block the center one and try a 1.5mm at the rear.

The NEO head has solid lifters which will be able to rev higher but it still retains the VCT so it revs quicker. You can also restrict the oil in the head more due to not needing oil to pump up the hydrolic lifters. Theres lots of threads in relation to this, have a bit of a search around the RB30 hybrid thread in the forced induction thread.