tridentt150v

No, haven't had them look at it yet, only talked it over. I was in my work truck when I sussed them out.

Quote: annodised purple dipstick showed up a day late,AND in a shade close to Aubergine... Now thats the real question, where can I get one of them?????? I'm wetting myself, I've gotta be the first kid on my block.............. Brent's been good, parts have arrived quickly, and they are the correct parts at a great price [pat's him on the back with praise].

Wire is black with silver dashes, photo of switch attached.

Aurora see crolla29

What you need is xl lists of your music etc, then you can sit back and choose Ya all know you'll get nuffin' dun watchin' porn, you'll go home randy with a handful of blank CDR's that you was gunna use..............lol

Less than half worn ferni, less, less............. And thanks SK, this gives me real facts to talk over with them.

I wore my rear passenger side tyre out on my '98 Gts2.5t in 5,000km. The other tyres are all less than half worn. The car has a lock diff, so both rear tyres should wear the same. The reason for this wear is the car has been set up for drifting. I took it to a wheel alignment place and they reckon that there is a bush inside the rear hub that may have to be replaced. They reckon the car probably has an offset bush in it and it should be returned to std for road use. Anyone had this experience???? Are they talking sense or crap???? I'd appreciate comments. PS You can actually see the camber on the wheel with the naked eye. PPS SK, I need to get this alignment prob fixed, and can't see myself getting to Sydney for a while, so I'm using a local business that reckon they have seen and repaired/modded this problem out. My suspension mods will still go ahead, but I have to be a bit more patient and schedule it and the power fc etc to early next year.

I actually put a square looking press button in the dash, press once and its off, press again and its back on, switch cost me about $8.00. If I'm working on the car I turn the beep off, if I'm using the car/travelling, I turn it on. And its only for the key in ignition, I didn't touch the lights on beep.

Hasn't been cleaned properly in caustic solution, has to be clean, clean, clean. Had mine on for 18 months, no problems.

Why didn't you get it black anodised, plenty of shops around that would do it, about $80, and no paint coating inhibiting heat transfer, anodising toughens alloy, and doesn't chip easily. I got my blitz anodised [but I got a black car, so did it blue].

'Bullit' the dodge charger and the 390 mustang, best car chase bar none. The Norton in 'Stone' was good too..........

Funny, I just got off the phone to 'em, and they said no running in required, its right to go..............as long as I'm not racing. I got nil instruction [running in] with the turbo when it returned. I did get instruction on changing the oil, coolant etc, but pretty basic really, no torque figures, no hints or assists. Absolutely nothing on on getting the car retuned or other mods that they recommend [adj cam wheel, power fc etc] to get the 'power' out of the hiflow. I could be driving a shitbox, they don't differentiate. But they were fast, less than a week turnaround.

Anybody????

:wavey: ed R34 is back [sorry ed couldn't resist........lol]

What are you hooking your lights up to your cig lighter for????, you should hook them up to a headlight/parker wire so that your gauge lights come on when you turn your lights on. You don't want them on all the time the ignition is on. Anyway you don't have to change the fuse at all, if you don't use the cig lighter and the lights at the same time. Anyway, most of the backlights on gauges are = 2 watts per bulb, or about 0.2 watts per diode. They draw very few amps [what is it e=ir, com'n sparkies]. A cig lighter draws heaps more.

there was a site that had printable manuals for HKS EVC's. Can't remember the address or name, something like autospeed or autopower. It was a european site, the usa/au sites don't have the manuals. you'll have to do a search.

just strapped in a hiflo by GCG, they don't work saturdays, my question is how long and how should I run it in???? Also checked my spark plugs, NGK R 8's, obviuosly a jap plug, look like platinum's, are they???? If they are then they don't need changing for years/many kilometres. Do they have an Aust. equivalent. I've been to the NGK au website and seen their recommendations etc, they don't list R 8's. Thanks for all info PS I don't need a diatribe on bcpr7es's etc, I have done a search and found the plug recommendations on SAU and can buy them at REPCO etc any time The NGK R 8's where all gapped to 0.08mm, which is correct for my car and mods.

I'll stay tuned to this batchannel.....................depends on my other life [the one outside skylines or mechanic-ing skyline].

Sell u my ECU, came chipped from japan. No speed limiter, handles 16psi with nil ping with the right other mods [fmic, evc etc]. PM me if yr interested.

Water in the filter??

I'll keep you posted, as I said [somewhere on SAU] I'll give a blow by blow account of what I'm doing, so others can learn from my efforts/blunders.

Yeah, sort of. Got a Tomei adj. ex cam wheel ordered, already have an aftermarket/rechipped ecu, was going to get a power fc and hc, but the clutch f@@ked up in my 3.8 V6 Hilux=$900, so am making do for the moment with the ecu. Power fc later. Already got bigger injectors [yellow tops] and am pump[bl@@dy noisy], don't ask what sort, haven't looked yet, still learning about what I actually bought. I'm just a wage earner, so its steady as you go, plus I've gotta feed my other vices. I'll post a pic next to the std one when I get it back.

$1169.40, for a hiflow and ball bearing conv. from GCG Turbochargers. Hiflow=from a 51.2/71 to a 56.3/76mm, supposedly able to make 230-250rwkw depending on other mods.

I've got a std front pipe and cat, you can have on long term loan if you need it, Its not much, and maybe its not needed [you reckon your zoorst is OK], but its the only spare part I've got left -- been selling them as I go -- otherwise, good luck. Don't burn your tyres though, borrow another set and get it passed, then put yours back on. It's only one mongrel's opinion that they are worn, others may not even notice. As for the gf, you have to follow your own destiny and rely on your own sense of values, nobody can make your mind up for you. What you, you and your gf, do is your decision. The cancer, I hope results are negative, but you have support and well wishes from many here. One day you will look back on this, and it may well be a defining moment in your life, [now the feel good stuff ends] don't f##k it up.......................lol. Everybody has a 'crunch time' at least once in their lives, some of us have been there and done that, we can sympathise. Kick back, don't be too hasty, wait till the whole chapter is written, things will be easier.

Fuel pumps maintain a pressure head in the fuel system, it whines when it is working, it stops working when the pressure head level is reached, and then kicks in and starts pumping again when the pressure drops below ..... [a set level]. It will always be working when you are booting hard, speeding, racing etc, it will be intermittant when you are cruising, driving through traffic, or in car parks etc. A fuel pump [a good one] is --in theory--designed to give a constant pressure/flow of fuel at the vehicles maximum potential, when you are not using the vehicles maximum performance potential the pump does the job so easily it can have a rest [sort of]. Most fuel pumps fitted are actully overdesigned, so that you can fit your fmic, exhaust, biggish turbo etc and still retain the std fuel pump. You will eventually max them out when mods outstrip the fuel pumps ability to provide.