Birnie

I think 2 points we're trying to clear up (maybe 3) 1) What does the stock R33 GTS-T get at the wheels (no mods) 2) A stock ECU cannot make it over 150rwks The maybe 3) - How much extra power do you get from after market ECU (peak has only been discussed i guess, but obviously the whole shape of the curve would be nice to compare like you said) Been an interesting read so far, including the dumby spits And the source of all these arguments being dodgey dynos of course. Go the 190 at the wheels on the standard ECU

I'd be happy to volunteer my car to do a Power FC/Stand ECU comparison if there's someone nearby who'll gimme 2 free runs on a 'real' dyno I won't change a thing appart from the ECU so we could have a direct comparison on power gains and also see how off my 190 was with the Nissan ECU. (I beleive i won't loose my FC tune if power is disconnected??)

I can't beleive my eyes! I don't have the cash FREEEGAN MORTAGE shizza

..ahh, you beat me too it. Was going to ask The Mafia the same question. How does anyone know that their Dyno is giving the right reading? Also, I used to have a SAFC ages ago and got 166 on 10psi at Unigroup . I've had it removed for over a year making room for the Power FC but took way to long to do it. When no aftermarket ECU was in, on 12psi, and FMIC, it was freegan flyin !..talking seat of the pants feal. Easy wheelspins in 2nd. Way better than with the SAFC and no FMIC. I don't think it would make a difference but it's 98 ECU R33

Here's the Dynos...

Hmmmm, i wouldn't go that far. I got 190 with FMIC, boost to 12 (bleeder), full zorst, pod filter. ...then got the Power FC installed/tuned. went to 194 but the whole midrange thing is fantastic !

I usuallt get right on 500 just before the light comes on but that's commuting from Central Coast down the freeway to Sydney. Not much fangin' involved. Also, it was 500 with Nissan ECU and the same now with the PFC

Syd North shore has a BP which used to be good. The usual 10c above normal and nice young chickee babes working there, "New Management" sign comes out probably a year ago now. Crusty old bugga and his sons working there and now 15c more. used to be my regular stop to work but have NEVER been since. Do they think you won't notice? Geeze

Hey guys, Great thread! I have a question. On the old Nissan ECU, starting the engine was no problem at all. Sounded like 2 cranks and she lit up every time. With the Power FC after, a full tune by the Hitman and the 30 min warm up idle setting, it takes about 8-10 cranks to start. It starts every time, don't get me wrong. Just thought it strange the standard Nissan did it better than the Power FC Any settings i could be looking at? Thanks Birnie

Awesome. Thanks mate ! Power FC in on 12psi..... Whoah ! Yibeda yibeda ! Got another Skyline yet?

Only had mine tuned for the first time in the last week by The Hitman. The Power FC is set to flash at over 60 i think. I get a small patch of flashing when at full load at about 3.5-4k revs. (hits about 80) Hitman also said that he doubts you would be able to hear that and in the 'old' days, no one would have worried about it. I might ring him later in the week and ask if i should do anything about it because it's always the same spot.

here ya go..... http://www.gcg.com.au/Catalogue_Menus/Upgr...pgrade_gtst.htm

I honestly have know idea what that black thing is and if it has pressurised air coming thru it. Take it for a drive, if your boost levels seem to max out at the same spot as before the cooler kit....ie 5 and 7psi....you should be set. Now go and spend $50 on a bleed valve..tehe

The little pipe needs to be used. That's where the actuator (that controls the little outlet door on the turbo) gets it's pressure reading from. If the pressure is to high, it opens up and lets some gas out so the turbo won't spool up as much. If you don't attatch it, there will be no pressure reading at all and the actuator will keep the door on the turbo shut to try and get boost up and reach the 7psi level. Therefore, you will have unlimited boost ! BAD !! Your little needle will go right off the chart and turbo blades may detach... You probably can drive around just don't accelerate to hard and your boost won't go to high. Enough for you to drive somewhere to drill a hole and weld a nipple on there for you and all will be sweet. ...and if your gunna have a front mount, at least get a bleed valve ! Yeeehar ! Just got my car tuned on 12psi using the bleeder and a Power FC, and FMIC of course. frigin hell!!!! Scary shit and I'm only on 194 rwkws! Good luck Birnie

For me, yes they needed to be cut. There's about a 1-2cm gap but it's definatley clear. ...and the pipe is changing colour, I'm gussing because it's touch the heat sheild stuff on the bonnet...so i wouldn't want to raise it any higher if possible,.

....also, to get the exact position of that hole, 1) i fixed the FMIC where i wanted it 2) attatched the pipe temporarily with the silicon hose (without bothering with the metal clips) 3) Used it like that as a compass, just like the highschool days, to get the approx x/y co-ordinate. 4) used a piece of chalk and drew a free-hand circle around the pipe giving a spot to aim for. 5) used the tiniest drill bit i had and drilled thru the centre of the chalked circel and made sure i was high/low enough looking from inside the engine bay at the hole just made.

That's exactly what i did Removed both pieces intact as you said and then removed those last clips. The other side of that hole is already posted In my post of 6 pics, it's the 2nd pic listed.

Got em. $500 now. Oh well Still doing it though.

Hey guys, I want to get my Power FC tuned up from scratch and was going to get Matt (i think) aka The Hitman to do it for me. The website http://www.hitman.hm isn't responding and hasn't been for days. Is he still up and running? Thanks.. Birnie

The 'L' shaped bracket i got from Bunnings. The square-tubed metal bar i got from the local metal shop. I think it was 25mm square and just bought a metre and cut to size with a hacksaw at home. Painted it black with rust proof paint and that was it. Also, the hole drilled in the middle of the black bar isn't exactly in the middle. Careful how you line it up. I put the cooler on some bricks n stuff to get it to the right height, centre it up using the headlights as guides and then penciled in the spot to drill.

Yep, that was me in the white one...

I think i was the only one! Got a nice 190rwkws though Yibeda yibeda !!!! Bloody stoked !!! There was another GTR R32 who got 290ish. Crickey ! A black R32 GTST went by..BEC plates but disssappeared. Didn't see anyone else. Never seen so many 17 year olds! Damn i felt old !

I'll go tomorrow to have a lookski. Anyone else? Bringing a mate who has a Nissan Gazelle. Still in the engine swap phase but just been completely sprayed black. Can't wait to see it!

But there's no way they can check it

I understand what you're getting at. I had an argument in High School with someone about this very thing. Had a pic of the graph you gave and you had to say which car was in front when they all hot 100kms/hr. It's funny, nearly 90% of people thought they were a the same position! Geeze! Anyway.....0-100's and quarter miles are good benchmarks..but to get what i think you want, you would like to see a 'How far can a car travel in 10secs..or 20sec' from a standing start (or rolling, or adapt further) Yeah??? But if you did have that, people could then argue the opposite.. "10sec distance measurements mean nothing, doesn't show how fast it would do a quater mile!" and then show another graph and quote a few formulas. Gotta do your own research i guess and go from there ..and while I'm thinking about it more (gotta stop soon) Your comparing apples oranges and lemons. Everyone here is pretty much apples, apples so it does make sense to compare Catchya Birnie