Daleo

What a shame; I recently threw out set of modified 296mm x 32mm Soarer rotors, calipers and dogbone adaptors that I made for my old R31! It was a great upgrade that fitted under all types of rims (over 16"); you just have to swap the struts from right to left; so the caliper is on the leading side; not trailing side of the strut. Oh and machine a new set of hubs. Sucks to be you. The parts would only cost $50 -$100 from a Toyota wrecker; you should do it.

I'm assuming you're referring to the NM35. I believe if you get the Japanese to English translation done; http://www.xanavi.com.au/Xanavi/Xanavi_Language.html you will have the format you are after. Alarms for Stagea; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/373392-best-alarms-for-stagea/ And have a trawl through here; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/9-car-audio-security/ Cheers, Dale.

Might sound silly; but why not just take the car to someone who reconditions CV's and get them to take it for a spin? These guys can tell all the hallmarks of a worn joint; if they diagnose a shaft issue; get them to rebuild the CV's. It shouldn't cost the earth; I'd be expecting somewhere in the low to mid $200 mark per shaft. Also maybe look at wheel bearings.

It certainly looks the same; maybe speak to Cam (iamhe77)

Good to hear. Lol, at least you're not buying a 200SX... Not that there's anything wrong with that...

With 230000km; it's probably a good opportunity to go again, if he's that way inclined. PNM35 + http://www.skylinesa...25#entry6122625 = awesome?

I hope they've gotten better at balancing wheels; I must've had 1kg per wheel when I bought tyres there a few years back. The vibrations nearly shook the paint of my car on the way to my regular tyre service to have them rebalanced; ended up with about 10 grams per wheel...

I've missed you man.

WTF? I'm assuming accident; occupants all ok? Too soon for plans on a new Stagea? That's miserable Cam; here's me whining about a scratch.

Wish I could say the same...

Springwood NSW . Might be a little out of your way.

I'd be looking to braze/weld a bung into the sump. Best spot for it. In the fluid line; you won't know what's going on when in manual mode (the GB isolates the cooler circuit) which is probably when you need it the most. I've been idly wondering about the worth of welding a series of bungs into the trans sump (or a 1/2"plate tapped with BSP threads) one for temp gauge, one for a temp switch and a couple for a low pressure electric pump fed external cooler. This would get around the issue of the gearbox bypassing the cooler then in manual tiptronic mode (when it's needed most). I know people reliably use small low pressure VDO pumps to scavenge and return oil to the sump in turbo setups where the drains are below sump level. That said; it might be a bit more effort and expanse than is absolutely necessary... An interesting thread for some detail; http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm

Cheers Alex; been garnering a bit of sympathy today from friends and family. Yeah, have been planning to get the door rubbing strips colour coded and the plasitc panel at the base of the hatch repainted; once the new bars went on, they looked a little average... So I might actually get the whole hatch debadged and re-done; no need to remove parts if he's going to have the whole car. Going to see what the cost is and decide from there; but I think I'll just pay my excess for the rear quarter repair and then add in what I need to get it all done. It was done in a carpark behind my local shops in Springwood; miles out of the way, and the same cars were parked both sides when I got back. That's what shits me; an accident, or a scratch from a bag I can deal with, even if they don't leave details. But this was vindictive; someone saw the car, went out of their way to walk over, deliberately got something out , scratched the car, and walked off. Weak flamin mongrel. Looks good The 10mm offset change makes all the difference; much nicer wheels.

Yeah, the detailer that originally corrected my car said every time he went to buff the polish residue off the car; he scratched it.

Like these by any chance?

Sounds like you're on the right track then; even speak to your College teachers. Most will take an interest if you do; they rarely do it for the monstrous salary... Good time to learn. You may well have gotten away with it; good luck.

Lol Cam, I think I've worn her down with it over time. She rolls her eyes and occasionally cracks it, but she rather likes driving around in a spotless, well maintained car while some of her friends drive unreliable, dirty shitboxes.

Lol, no; the rest of the car is basically flawless. That's why I'm so cranky. A couple of the Sydney guys can probably vouch for the paint. The clear coat on all of the V35/M35's is very soft. It's very easy to mar the paint; and it shows up worst on dark blue, and particularly black. It also doesn't appear very UV resistant. There is actually a factory option; "Clear Hardcoat" (I think that's what it's called) which is a kind of paint protection that most owners optioned on darker colours, but it is sacrificial, and eventually wears off. It's a bit of a double edged sword though, being soft; it can take a knock and not crack, and it doesn't take a huge amount of muscle to do Paint Correction. My painter offered to rub back the clear and spray a House of Kolor clear and then wet sand, another coat, wet sand and correct. The HOK clear is a very high quality UV stable clear and it is much much harder than the factory clear. He called it a "Diamond Hard" clear. It would resist scratching much more and would be basically a show car quality finish. Whilst being very tempting; I tend to think this may make it even more of a target than it already is, and the finish would require the at least the same level of care as it does now; very likely more. I'm not sure I could deal with slowly covering it in stonechips though. I think there's probably a happy medium somewhere in between, I'll have to sit down & have a chat with him. The advantage is; he absolutely loves the car, and knows I'm bordering on obsessive about it too.

Looks great; you must be very pleased Yeah, looks more like a coin to me. I'm not too sure at this stage; I'll probably go and see my painter on Saturday, but it looks like it'll be the full drivers side rear quarter, and cant rail from the "A" pillar through to the "C" pillar. Depending on cost, I may take the opportunity to have the whole car flow coated. I can use a diamond hard HOK clear, which will solve the soft clear issue these cars have; but I don't know if I'm just inviting more of this negative attention. Thanks mate, been a while since I have had a car vandalised; needed a bit of an outlet; the guys on here know what it's like. My missus didn't know what to say when I told her; sent me a message when she got to work, telling me to do whatever I need to make it right. She's cool like that, no "It's just a car" from her.

Discovered the foot long gouge; down to the undercoat, in the rear quarter of my Stag. Obviously done when I left it in a carpark yesterday. Far too deep to be an accident. Worked so hard to get it looking the way it does. Fair dinkum sick to my stomach that someone would do that. I can't even look at it. Nothing else to say.

And by drawing; I mean picture...

Can you get hold of a magnetic base dial indicator? Attach the magnetic base to the machined flat below the water pump gallery, and put the probe on the farthest point of the crank (as per the drawing) Rotate the crank 360 deg, and measure any runout on the dial. More than 0.10mm and you're possibly in trouble (should be basically zero). You might've dodged a bullet, there doesn't appear to be any great damage; but checking the runout is the only way you'll know for sure. What kind of "ground" did it fall on? Dirt, Grass, Concrete, Baby Harp Seal? Looks like it fell almost straight on the end of the crank; correct?

PM me, and let me know what you're after. Cheers, Dale.

I'd be willing to bet that they're what I've got.

Most of the time the passengers side one is pretty easy, the drivers side one usually requires the slip joint on the steering shaft to be loosened to allow the rack to move far enough to allow the new bush to be fitted.