Daleo

FYP dude.

The Track rims look money against the white.

I have a couple of keys I don't use, as I went to an aftermarket immobiliser. Feel free to PM if you like; might be easier & quicker than Japan.

That's lucky; it's normally that packed, you'll only get 2 or 3 anyway...

Lol, yeah; I normally do it from the head unit end of the speaker wiring, that way you know you've got it right. I don't think testing speaker wiring to earth will work.

I normally use an AA battery; positive on the battery to positive on the speaker will push the cone out, positive to negative will pull the cone in. As AAT said; just a quick touch on the leads, so you don't damage the voice coil.

Sorry niZmO_Man; I probably should've directed my comments to the OP... I reckon you and SiR RB are on the right track; I don't understand why people see the need to blaze the hell out of brand new pads, I always thought it was just to activate the binding agent with a decent amount of heat then let them cool, not push a 600deg pad to it's maximum when it's brand new. That way, you transfer some pad material onto the disc; nothing more. You do the hard braking once the pads are bedded in. It's much the same argument on new rotors; it takes quite a few heat cycles for them to fully harden for their best chance at a long life. It's a bit like revving the beans off your stone cold, freshly built engine, without even ensuring you have oil pressure; just because it's a "Race" engine, but I suspect that's another can of worms, for another day...

I'll have to check my roster; but I could be in!

GTR box & transfer will fit.

I'd be staying well away from a Freeway bedding brakes in; that's how you get yourself killed. That's bizarre; I'm running HPX's on my daily 323 and I did all my bedding in around 60km/h. 10 stops from 60-10km/h. No problems getting enough temperature into them, and absolutely no squealing issues. They're a road pad; surely they don't need this kind of beding in? Are you sure you haven't actually overheated these pads in your overzealous "Bedding in" strategy? You don't actually need to have fire pouring off them when you do it. My understanding was that if you overheat brand new pads during bed in; you can actually cause the binding agent to be drawn to the surface of the pad and this can cause the kind of issues you're describing.

Jawrgy, you need to find out how much oil is in the engine; wipe the stick properly, and reinsert it. pull out and check. If it's above the low mark, you're ok, but I'd still put some in. If it's just that drop on the end of the stick, add 1/2 a litre and see where you end up. If still nothing, add another 1/2. Take your time there's no reason to hurry. I'm assuming you've got some 10w/40 oil handy? You'd be amazed how much oil you can pump out through a dipstick, but by the same token it's amazing how much of a mess you can make with 500mL of oil; once it's sprayed around. They're a hard engine to check once they've been running, as they hold a lot of oil in the heads etc, and it takes a while to run back down. I always check mine first thing in the morning. If you're not sure though, please don't drive it; better to wait a day, than destroy a perfectly good engine. Good luck, Dale. P.S. After the weekend I d be dropping back and telling him what happened, and getting him to dump the mixture of oils out, refill, and steam clean your engine bay. It's the least he can do.

No thanks, my missus already has an Ironing board...

I reckon you'd be on for that. I'd be happy with a mid 14...

OH MY FREAKIN' JEEBUS! SPOTTED AT LAST! It's only taken 3 years...

I'll be in this; it's high time I got back for a comparison to my bone stock 14.9 sec quarter over a year ago. Got to be good for a 14.8 by now...

Spotted a Blue AR-X on Silverwater Rd, and Iain's NISMO awesomeness when I picked up my new radiator. Thanks mate, looking forward to getting it in!

I pretty much agree with what you've said, but the Liberty Wagon is absolutely TINY in comparison, they are a seriously small car.

Do the rims need repairs? If not; you can powdercoat for around $50 per wheel. Heaps of colours, pearls & metallics too.

Good job finding the issue lads, you deserve a pat on the back!

What an odd paradox; "Stuff that idiots say about Skylines"is now being said BY idiots driving Skylines... I love this thread; how on earth is it not in the Wasteland?

I think the offsets are slightly different.

You can ask for whatever you want; it's your car. If you want to be paid in Mars bars, giant stone coins or Easter Island statues; you can ask for that, doubt you'll get a buyer, but don't let that deter you. I withdrew $55,000 from my bank to pay the deposit on my house; it didn't cause me any trouble at all. The purpose of the legislation is not to cause "plenty of trouble" to legitimate people doing legitimate business; it is to catch criminals moving large sums of cash that has no history. What are they going to do? Arrest him for spending his own cash? I'm not saying don't go with a bank cheque; definitely do, and check it's authenticity with the issuing bank, but this nonsense about using cash; what's with that? You could easily do business in your local bank branch to take the risk out of a cash transaction, bank cheques can be cancelled by the person it was issued to (in the case it might be stolen, or lost) so they carry an element of risk.

PM sent.

And swap you column shroud...

I can help you out if you like; I've run several GB's, but I can also get these as one off orders anytime; prices are the same as the GB. Where are you located? Link to previous Group Buy; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/376916-whiteline-sway-bar-group-buy-r32-r33-r34-gtr-and-2wd/ I've supplied more than 15 sets of the bars you've quoted to people on this forum; the feedback on their performance has been very good. Feel free to PM Cheers, Dale.