Daleo

Its just double sided tape. The issue is; once you remove the badging, there is a very defined outline left by the badge. It looks like the badges are applied when the paint is still soft, as even heavily cutting back the surface still results in a really obvious ghost on the paintwork. The darker the colour; the worse it is.

Silver C34 on Talavera Rd in Macquarie Park, about 30 seconds ago. Looking out the window at work. Careful, the police have hitting this area really hard lately because it's a 50km/h zone.

Fairy Muff... I'll give you a bell tomorrow.

Will you be working at "The House of Stagea" tomorow? Might see if I can nip down for a perve...

Will you be running in RWD only? Staggered sizes won't work with AWD.

Fair enough; sometimes hard to gauge space in pics. Hadn't thought about the AFM position; but you won't be feeding it unmetered air so it should be fine. Good to hear it's all working well; must be encouraging. You STILL haven't fitted those swaybar bushes? Me either; lol... Pics; LOTS of pics.

Throw a pic of your grille up on the forum, that will either confirm or eliminate the existence of factory cruise. Has your car had its instrument cluster changed?

I'd put the BOV on the underside of the pressure side pipe; just in front of the throttle body. This keeps everything out of sight. You could then pick up the turbo intake pipe directly below; weld a nipple in at a 30 deg angle, providing a nice merge into the intake pipe. Better yet; weld your nipple into the intake pipe so you get straight shot at the compressor wheel.

Go and see your local motor trimmer, they'll be able to sort this for around $200ish.

I think the other interesting issue with the ACA report, was the way they deliberately tarred "Car enthusiasts; people who like to modify their cars" as "Hoons". Excuse me? Their standard "burnouts and donuts" footage is getting stale, so they just go after an entire community; because you might like a different set of wheels or paint colour than what the manufacturer supplies. Honestly; putting a light meter on factory tinted "privacy glass". These guys know; and they love a soft target. But then you get guys with 117dB exhausts giving them a free hit... The biggest issue now, (apart for the fact that the RTA thinks it can just make its own laws) is that EVERY licensed engineer is having to re-apply to be re-certified. All the old guys that know the rules, and will engineer cars and mods that the RTA doesn't like, are being pushed out. A friend has just jumped through all the hoops, and been certified, said that ANY car that didn't come factory fitted with forced induction; will pass engineering if it has aftermarket forced induction. NONE; full stop. This is just the tip of the iceberg. All the little loopholes have been closed, and life is just going to get harder. The RTA (or whatever it is that they are called now) want no one to modify cars AT ALL, and are doing everything in their power to ram through all their self serving nonsense at a parliamentary level, but for once they are actually meeting some stiff resistance. A couple of years ago there were reports within the RTA that stated a policy of effectively banning Motorbikes from the streets; and Motorbikes were not part of the planning process for road safety or policy changes. This was fought, and motorbikes/scooters had to be formally recognised in State/Federal road safety/planning documents. The rigorous L's and P's training for Motorcyclists was introduced by the RTA; essentially as a disincentive to people who wanted to ride. Now; rider deaths & injuries are steadily declining; the numbers consistently go down year to year. this is in spite of the fact that more and more people are riding. The little guys can win. These kind of sensationalist tabloid reports just make it harder for the MP's that want to stand up to the bullying bureaucrats within the RTA. We need to play smart; engineer our mods, and not give people an excuse to tar us with the "Hoon" brush. Especially now that being an "Enthusiast" is somehow tantamount to criminal behaviour.

Spotted white C34 on 20's in Penrith today; going under the railway on Mulgoa Rd.

That's great news mate; realistic pricing definitely shifts cars faster! New owner has got quite the deal.

Milla definitely helps.

Soooo, sittin' watching Resident Evil; Apocolypse (obviously couldn't spell Apocalypse) the bit in the church with the "Brain Critters", and I hear a funny noise outside. Flicked on the floodlight, slip on the pluggers and head out to the patio. Shit! Left the BBQ on; that was a lucky one. Turned to walk back inside; a frog jumped on my thonged foot! Shit myself, jumped about four feet in the air; squealed like a little girl and nearly fell over in a puddle. Meanwhile; the cat is sitting 10 feet away watching me dancing like Peter Garret on PCP... If cats could laugh... Now I'm all f**kin' nature...

This^^^^ I wouldn't use a rattle gun; you just don't have enough feel when you're tightening. It shouldn't be that hard to pull the spline of a new stud into the hub anyway; if it is, you've probably measured wrong.

I've copied this image from Chris's (Spoolin'12) Brake thread; http://www.skylinesa...__brake+upgrade As you can see; they actually come painted silver. Check the link; I'm sure it'll clear up any questions. The one thing to remember is; they are FARKING HUGE calipers, so you need to look at wheel offset to ensure you have enough clearance. This link can be printed 1:1 scale and used as a guide for clearance on a wheel you might wish to use; http://www.conceptzp...rakeoutline.pdf

Quoted for truth. Warranty won't cover the full value of labour & rebuild. Better off doing it properly, and going with a proven replacement.

Are they Brembos? Danny's old car?

True. They're starting to get better as more Falcoon & Crummydore owners buy staggered sets for their bombs, and they're getting a bit more savvy to offset & caliper clearance too.

Fair enough Adam, that's why I posted a link for you. Fair play for having a go. Jesse is at a bit of a disadvantage; as he pays for space in other peoples containers. It's a bit of a shame you weren't looking a few months ago; there were several AXIS front ends on Ebay. What is the issue with the timeframe using Import Monster? I really think you could save some serious dollars if you can wait. I bought an Aero front bar for $120 using IM; no way could I have done that over here.

If you haven't already; Put the brake rotor on, and the caliper. Get someone to stand on the brake while you pull the stud through. At a pinch you can use a bar wedged against the brake and into the base of the seat frame . Obviously engine on, so you get the benefit of the booster. Don't forget to lube the thread when you're pulling it in; you don't want to gaul the thread before you get to use it.

Why not go hard and try 19x9.5 +22 offset? Remove the rub guards, roll the shit out of the steel, then heat & roll the lips of the rub guards; you could probably even go harder.

Dear Jetwreck; I think my Flux Capacitorz is borked, if I givez you dolarz can you do a highflowz on it? Seriously though; how do I get better performance from my F/C? Is it time for a high performance rewind?

The only time I notice the thump is when I'm dawdling in traffic; get a bit of harshness into second. I actually much prefer what I have now, even my missus gets a bit of a grin when it squats & goes on a gearchange now.