Daleo

Best of luck!

If you can wash a car & chamois without scratching; you can use a Clay bar. I've had to remove overspray exactly like you're dealing with; Clay bar FTW! Check this "How to"; http://www.bowdensown.com.au/I_Like_It_Smooth

Spotted a White C34 on Talavera Rd in Macquarie Park this arvo, and literally as I'm writing this; I believe Bodalla just drove past (sounds niiice!) on Talavera heading towards Macquarie Centre. I'm a freakin' Stagea spotting ninja this arvo!

He'd be better off buying a proper boost gauge and using that; the OEM one is hardly the last word in resolution.

The torque split gauge only moves when there's a loss of traction; in a stocker, you won't see much action. Give it a punt on some dirt or grass; it'll move. The boost gauge has an issue with dry solder joint's and Scotty did a "how to fix" on that, it's quite easy. Link; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/297345-m35-factory-boost-gauge-repair/page__p__4951320__hl__boost+sensor+fix__fromsearch__1#entry4951320 There's no reason why you can't remove them though.

You can't really remove the OEM Markings; as they're etched into the Stainless gate surround. You could probably get a sticker maker to do some little round stickers, or maybe even get them to do something on vinyl and wrap the gate surround (C/F or Metal effect film?)

I think you're right ; especially considering the Flares are quite glossy, rather than a satin finish like you'd get from painting the coarse ARX Flares. Probably had a light front ender, and was cheaper to throw an AR-X bar, bonnet & grille on; rather than the AXIS parts.

If that's the case; the one I have will fit this application.

Hey Cody, Glad everything went well mate. Thanks for the feedback mate; really appreciate the kind words. Having to remove the caster rods is the only frustrating part of the job really; but no other way to get at that saddle bolt. Cheers, Dale.

Good to see it's all coming together for you now.

That sucks. At fault, or did someone hit you?

I have a slightly used one that might suit your application, if it uses the basically universal Nissan filter; Specs; Part KN33-2031-2 Product Specifications Product Style: Panel Air Filter Height: 1.125 in (29 mm) Outside Length: 11 in (279 mm) Outside Width: 6.563 in (167 mm) Filter Material: Cotton Gauze Filter Re-Oiling Amount: 0.99 oz (29 ml) Measure yours and see if it matches. I'll clean & re-oil it and post it for $45. Nothing wrong with it at all, have changed to a Blitz dry panel filter. I think it was around $89 new. Cheers, Dale

Spotted silver C34 turning right onto Homebush Bay drive early this morning. I was in the left turn lane, and it was a bit too early for tooting.

I'm not arguing that an OEM belt can't support 700HP; I'm saying that the timing belt doesn't carry that horsepower. Rating the belt for horsepower is irrelevant. The crank pulls on the belt, which turns the cams; not the other way around. We seem to be on the same page with the OEM belt strength situation. Say you had a hypothetical GTR producing 500HP, and you change to a larger turbo set up; the car now produce 700hp; you haven't changed the rev limit or the cams; only tuning and turbos. The belt is not under any more stress than it was when the engine produced 500hp. The power of the engine isn't dictated by the belt; nor the life or strength of the belt dictated by the engine power.

They do make a difference you can feel; but I wouldn't say it is a negative change. Over single wheel bumps (potholes driveways) you do notice; because you are effectively increasing the spring rate of that wheel. This generally manifests as additional resistance to bottoming out and slightly firmer feeling suspension. Over two wheel bumps (undulations and speed humps) you won't notice them at all; because the bar is unloaded, and just effectively floating. Bars generally don't make the car ride rougher around town; in fact after adding heavier bars to my car, I was able to significantly soften the damping of my coilovers. This is because I didn't need to use the damping to cover up the sloppy response on turn in. I've had similar feedback from other people who've fitted bars. So the end result in my case; was a more supple compliant car, that was much more able to follow the contours of a corner, rather than just crashing over them. Smoother, quieter, and above all shitloads quicker and composed in corners. That's a win-win in my book.

How can you rate a timing belt for horsepower? Tensile strength; Yes. Horsepower; Nope. The only things that will stress a belt are; heavier than stock valve springs, or cams with more aggressive opening ramps. The power that the engine produces is irrelevant to the belt. The slippage that you speak of; where does this happen on synchronous belt? If the belt "slips" it has teeth missing; no other way it can slip. It's not a bloody fan belt. If the belt jumps a tooth; it isn't tensioned correctly; or has stretched, and broken the internal cords, and is about to fail catastrophically. IMO, there's absolutely nothing wrong with OEM belts, most of what you're fed on "High Perfomance" belt is marketing hype.

PM Sent.

Drove to Wallsend and back today, no Stageas until I got back home. White, Aero kitted M35 on the GWH at Blaxland, and Silver C34 in Winmalee.

I'm pretty sure Jetwreck tried one of those in his M35 and it didn't work. Maybe PM him to check?

Engine temp, injector duty cycle, throttle opening, AFM voltage, ambient temp, RPM, Speed, O2, and a bunch more. With additional sensors you can do oil temp, oil pressure, boost pressure etc. Link; http://www.greddy.com/products/electronics/informeter/ Should answer some questions.

Informeter plugs into the OBD plug. I'm not sure exactly what it will read on a C34, I've only used mine on an M35.

Greddy Informeter is the go. Might need some additional sensors to read everything though.

Mine picked up more power after the 3" Mid pipe, 100 cell cat and Legalis cat back were fitted. I don't know how much can be attributed to the larger diameter pipework, and mine also had a horrible compliance cat. I'd say there's definitely gains to be had when upgrading from the OEM system; that huge, heavy mid muffler would have to be a fairly restrictive piece.

I did my dump pipe first, and there was a big difference in the response of the turbo, and a reduced amount of throttle required to hold the same acceleration as compared to the OEM strangler. Also, my fuel economy improved (once I removed my lead right clog) This say to me that there is a fairly significant hike in torque when the restriction is removed, and I'm sure there is a decent HP increase to go with it.

He's the only gay in the Villa(ge)