Daleo

The Skyline looks great, the paint on your car always looks amazing! But when will you be starting the build thread for the Koenigsegg in the picture? Separated at birth?

V35 17's look similar, until you put an M35 rim next to them. The M35 17's are 17x7, +45 offset. There is no concavity in the spokes of the M35 rim; the face is basically flat. And they look poo.

These are the little things that go wrong with older cars; this is exactly why people sell perfectly good cars; a little time & investigation can yield very cheap, easy repairs. The clutch pedal will have a nylon bush on the pivot point; these do wear. You should be able to buy a new one from Nissan, or if you are friends with a machinist; they could spin you up a new one if you provide the old one as a sample. Seat rails may well be wearing; but there may be something you can tighten depending on their construction. I've also tacked little shims into frames to tighten the slides. Have you pulled one out to have a look? Due to the amount of heat that the roof lining cops, if it is held by plastic clips; these may well have gone brittle & broken. Not sure how yours is assembled because I don't have a C34; I'm sure one of the guys who've had the headlining out will know.

Yes, but they will look like twice reheated, day old ass. Would you like to buy a set?

It won't suck up the clean fluid. It is a pressure pump at the start of the circuit not a vacuum pump at the end. It forces fluid from the sump, through the cooler circuit and returns it to the sump with essentially no pressure. If you invert the bottle you have the clean fluid in (gravity feed) it will all run into the sump; you will have no way to control how much goes in. Just pump out a couple of litres at a time and pour in the same.

Lets just say that some of their cars "coincidentally" have been known to have similar mileages; around the 50-65 000km area. That's not to say you won't get a good one; I bought mine from them and it had 39 000km (which I do believe to be fairly genuine). It's been basically perfect. Just make sure you see the original Japanese auction sheets PRIOR to laying any cash on the line. As with any sale, if it doesn't smell right; walk away. Alex was great to deal with, but Dmitriy; not so much. Made a lot of promises, (all promises had been made via email) and then promptly forgot about them when it was time to deliver, Alex sorted most of it out. I believe Dmitriy has since moved on, and is still on form... All car yards will have bad stories; some due to genuine issues, some due to unrealistic expectations. There are a lot of good stories too, but people make the most noise when they feel they have been wronged. Build a relationship with the dealer and I believe they will take care of you. If you don't like the way you are treated in the beginning; I don't believe things will improve down the track, if you have an issue.

I used Matic-J, it actually ended up being cheaper to buy 2x5 (10 litres) and end up with a litre odd spare, than to buy 3x4 (12 litres) of Nulon and end up with 3 litres spare.

It might be wise to get the rotors lightly skimmed to remove any residual pad material on the rotors; that way you can start fresh with the new pads with no squealing .

$99 is a good price, but that particular adapter is fairly straightforward. It's literally a rectangular block with a step, two threaded holes, and two through holes The hat offset is the distance from the wheel mounting face of the disc rotor; to the front braking surface of the rotor. This dimension dictates where the Caliper needs to sit in relation to the hub face; and therefore the thickness of the mounting spacer.

The one in the centre is correct; you need to lock the nuts against the ends of the arm; if you lock the nuts against the turnbuckle, the turnbuckle will still turn.

It would be interesting to see whether they can do something for a lower price than the UAS version; I'd definitely be interested The 350Z brembo and GTR Brembo use a different hat offset. From memory, the GTR Brembo is 54mm and the 350Z Brembo is 49mm. 350Z Brembo Rotors are almost always significantly cheaper than the GTR version.

Shoot GSLRallysport a PM or a call; Greg is a forum trader and great to deal with.

Unsure what you mean; a pad that works well from cold, all the way to 650deg seems like the perfect pad for a heap of conditions. I'm using QFM HPX pads in my daily, it's never stopped better. The Remsa's are supposed to be even better.

That's pretty good then. Looks like I'm placing an order. Sway Bar mounts & links are normally fairly repeatable; they either do, or they don't. They also load & unload fairly regularly, so they tend to be fairly vocal. There is a ball joint in the upper "A" arm in the rear, the rest is bushes. Shouldn't be too hard to apply some leverage to the arm to check for noise.

How long did they take to arrive? I'm looking at getting my rack ends through him.

Fitted new Air filter, cleaned throttle body and did idle relearn. Nice simple jobs.

^^^^^^ Definitely give Greg a call if you need anything; I've bought a bunch of stuff from him and it's been brilliant. My last order arrived in NSW from QLD in one day! Step up a little in price on pads, and enjoy the improvement.

The painted rims look better than you'd think; you're going to have fun keeping them clean though. Love the flake in the black; very nice!

Get underneath and twist the tie rods/rack ends; I bet there's a clunk. I just had an alignment on mine, and this has disturbed the inner rack ends; which have developed a knock. They appear to be the same as V35 and 350z rack ends from my search of common part numbers. Can anyone confirm?

Lol, My sis had a Skoda Superb (the next car up the range in size) when she was out here for holidays last year, and it was very nicely finished. Had the 2L TDi motor; for a big car, it was quick!

Yeah I know; I'm a bit like Switzerland... This is sort of my point Scotty; if it was a little bigger from the factory, it might not be an issue at all. The only down side to having a larger hole in the banjo; is more oil in the turbo core, and that could be cured with a larger diameter oil drain line to allow the aerated oil to escape. Which is something that could be incorporated at the design stage. Which brings us back to my original point. I was going to bring up the XR6 turbo feed filter; and removed it so as not to dilute the argument. Filters should be changed, and normally have a service schedule, so the Falcon one is more a case of overlooking part of the schedule because people didn't even know it was there. A better example would be the catalytic converter in the intake of WRX's that collapses and then destroys the turbo and/or engine. That shit is bad design. I'm not trying to put Paul or anyone else offside; but this seems to have really pissed him off. Mate; if you think Nissan did an excellent job; don't change a thing. I don't happen to think they did; and worse than that; I think they did it on purpose. If cars don't eventually wear out, and eventually cost more to repair than they are worth; why would anyone buy a new one? Deliberately restricting the service life of components is something manufacturers have done for many years. I believe this is an excellent example. I'm going to shut up now; as I've taken this thread miles off topic already.

I thought he was just eating too many pies...

The thing is; the particular reason it appears to be failing is because of inadequate oil supply through an unnecessarily small oil feed orifice. Scotty ran a used, stock turbo at 19 PSI for months with no issues; doesn't seem to be the turbo itself that is the issue. Seems to be it's support system that causes the problem. I'm not saying that you shouldn't have to change the oil, and that the car should run forever; just that one hole could be a tiny bit larger, with no detriment to anything else and it mightn't fail at all. I don't believe that Nissan accepted any kind of failure as an acceptable risk; if they had, the turbo would be a no cost, warranty replacement item, or you'd introduce an updated, or improved part. If you're happy for the customer to replace an expensive component using their own money, after only 100,000km; you haven't taken any risk at all. This particular argument doesn't involve boost pressures, ceramic turbines, SR20det piston cooling jets or any other distraction; it's about a 1 mm hole in a banjo bolt. And it is stupidly, unnecessarily small.

For a problem that appears as widespread as this; yes, I believe it is. The guys are only postulating that poor servicing causes it, which is quite possible. Are we now saying virtually all Japanese owners don't service their cars? My question is; why would you use a 1mm aperture, when a 2mm aperture works fine and wouldn't block up? Why is the turbo on our car a 100 000km service item: when on most cars, they can last the life of the vehicle? If you don't think there's something amiss there; that's fine, but coming from an engineering background, I know that some manufacturers DESIGN some components to fail deliberately; and what better than a 10 cent part that then takes out a $3000 part (oem price) and costs $5000 in labour to repair. On a car that is now worth how much? So 8 grand in parts and labour; because you won't drill a 1mm larger hole in a banjo... On top of that; surprise surprise; none of this covered by the cars warranty...

Which is obviously why it can block up and starve the turbo of it's oil supply. Yep; no design fault there...