Daleo

$417 and counting; still a day to go... Too rich for my blood; I'll stick with my blanking plates.

I know a couple of mechanics who are really struggling at the moment; a lot of people are waiting to start big dollar builds and want to see what is going to happen with the changes to the Engineers certificate regs, and now are noticing that their "bread & butter" servicing work is slowing down too. Whether this is down to less kays being done, therefore taking longer to roll around, or whether people are trying to tackle maintenance themselves or not at all...

Sounds like he's a fighter to have made it this far. Thoughts to him and his loved ones at what must be a very tough time.

Not disagreeing, and it's a bit of an oversimpification, but even comparing 8100 at what; $70-$80 for 4lts; it kills it at $50-$55 for 5lts? It's a shame they didn't push the Sougi harder; even the Syn-x 6000 is bloody hard to get hold of; they're killing their own products with poor advertising & availability.

Principally; it's not an Ester base; therefore not as "Good" I still believe it will more than suffice.

Head office is in Penrith, let me know if you'd like me to pick some up for you; I might even be able to arrange delivery to Stagea Bro Workshop...

Prices on the Invo's are pretty competitive too. They're definitely trying to break into the market in Australia What is the wear rate like Leon?

I ran Turbolight for quite a while, but I changed to GW Sougi S6000 (now discontinued) and I was most impressed with the improvement. I'm not mad about changing oil every 5000km; I'd rather run to 10 000km with a better quality oil. I removed & inspected my Turbo oil feed Banjo recently & it was perfectly clean with no sludge our carbon build up, so extended intervals are obviously not an issue, as long as quality oil is used. To date; I have put 65 000km on the car since it has been in my ownership. Next change I'll be using GW Syn-x 6000; I was quoted $50- $55 for 5lt by head office in Penrith. That's plenty cheaper than it's competitors. I'm using Syn-x 3000 in the daily ATM; for $25 for 5lt, I reckon you'd be hard pressed to do better.

Khumo KU31's. On my second set now for the Stagea; good for the dollars, quiet & grippy; both wet & dry.

Best of luck, hope you get it sorted quickly.

It could be water related, but most random electrical are related to dying batteries in the M35. Even with a full 12.7 volts charging into mine; when the battery was dying, it was throwing all sorts of random airbag & CEL alarms. Even though it started fine and ran fine this was an issue. Replaced battery; no more issues. Check the battery under load when starting, this is the only time you can really see how they're performing.

Unfortunately won't be attending; I'll be working.

Yep, I'll be on for that; working next Wed, so 2 weeks away works well with my roster. Going to have to push my LPG fed XR8 owning mate to come out too.

The only issue with Redline "Water Wetter" and most of the others; is that they require regular topping up; more often than Glycol based coolants. I've used the Redline one on a marginal cooling; it wasn't that impressive; certainly nothing like the 10 odd degrees they claim.

I just received this on FB from the Sydney Dragway feed; Hi all, unfortunately we have to cancel tonight's Hi-Tec Oils Race 4 Real ... there is little chance of the weather clearing this afternoon. Please take care on the roads and be safe. So it looks like we're out of luck for this week.

Yeah, sure did; not a car for P platers, that's for sure! Learned a LOT with that car. Mainly never to buy an English car again though... I sold mine to a dealer who blew up the gearbox when driving it out the back of the lot; the overdrive mechanism was a very fragile thing & I knew exactly what it was when the dealer wound it up & dumped the clutch. You have NEVER seen anyone leave a used car yard quicker than I did that day... The P76 transplant would've been a nice thing; I would've like to do an RB20DET into mine; but I snapped out of it & bought a proper car...

Definitely don't run the concentrate straight; it's designed to be mixed with water. Glycol is nowhere near as efficient as water for heat transfer; so I always mix it at the leanest concentration; this is when it is at it's most efficient, and still able to stop corrosion & lubricate water pump seals etc. If you spend time in snowy areas; by all means mix it stronger as recommended; but be aware; it doesn't transfer heat as efficiently. Although I don't think you'll have too much trouble with snow in Byron anytime soon Leon. Also highly recommend using distilled or demineralised water as your make up water. Just don't drink demineralised water; it'll make you sick.

Lol Jase, it's interesting how many people have had similar cars in earlier years; to arrive at a very similar point. The thing that amazes me is how much they go for; even now! I honestly sold mine for peanuts, and regretted it ever since. It had some factory fitted rust; as they all do, but nowhere near the amount that some guys are cutting out to restore cars now.

I then moved on to one of these; Again, not my pic but the resemblance is freaky; fight down to the shite, leaky sunroof. Mine was a 5 speed (dogleg box), Clarion quadrophonic stereo (Factory; yeahhhh!) and aircon. Resplendent in burgundy velour; the interior did attract teh ladeez. Crowning glory was a set of Bluebird TRX rims; pimpin! Moved to one of these; Mine was Gunmetal Grey with a built L20, 2.4 litre, with a Navara Crank, 48mm webers and a 6 point cage. Had a set of MA61 Supra rims; which really suited the look. Massive amount of suspension development; (Prior to Datsport gear being readily available) it was unbelievable to drive! Sold it for a song; even though I didn't really need to. Still makes me sad. This is the car I wished I'd never sold, and I suspect will spend a LOT of money buying/restoring/trying to get hold of later in life...

Good idea Alex; Not my pics, but mine looked identical to this. Triumph 2500S; With a bit of this underbonnet shizzle; Full Smiths gauge dash, timber trim, and an 4speed gearbox with electric overdrive. Jealous much? Just discovered what I SHOULD have bought;

I'm with you Ryan! Served me well, owned for 10 years, 300,000km on an already 190 000km old engine, bought back from the insurance company twice & rebuilt after being written off (both times by pensioners) Suspension work, GTR brakes, manual conversion, R33 rack conversion; awesome. I miss the boxy goodness of my 31 too...

I have a Black GSXR 1000, and I know exactly the kind of thing you mean, I use the same detailing products on my bike as I do on the incredibly soft Black paint on my Stagea. I use Dodo Juice Lime Prime for fine scratches & marring; with an R/O buffer, it's not too harsh. I then use Dodo Juice Purple Haze soft wax over that; but there's a ton of different products & everyone will have an opinion. I've used Plexus on headlights, and also on scratches on screens and gauge faces; and it works great. Also works well as a quick detailer if the bike is dusty. I would recommend taping up decals before starting, and definitely don't polish the satin finished parts; they'll go all chalky. A mate used to have a Black, satin finish RSV Mille R (gorgeous bike) which was hell to clean; he used Motul Wash & Wax; this would get greasy fingerprints off, but not look like you'd "Armour All"d the bike; still had it's satin finish.

300ZX eh? Get used to this; If in doubt; engine out.

It's considered pretty poor form to whore someone else's for sale thread to sell your own gear. If you want to sell; start your own thread...

As long as the weather stays good; I'll be there. Happy to help you out with bars.