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Daleo

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Everything posted by Daleo

  1. Yep; the centre has been torn out of that bush. She's f**ked. Leon, I've got a fresh set of Whiteline ones that were due to go into my car shortly; if you like, PM me, and I'll send 'em up.
  2. I think gates open around 4:30pm and cost is around $50. You also need a compliant helmet; there is a list. http://www.sydneydragway.com.au/?m=events&a=event_page&id=156
  3. I'm actually off this Wednesday; I might join you! I've been keen to get back out there, as I only had a dump pipe on mine; nothing else. Hence my 14.9. It would be interesting to see what difference my mild mods so far have made; it's certainly a different car on the road.
  4. Volvo driver on the right can't park?
  5. I'm impressed with the "horsepower" upgrade that comes with the new model.
  6. You do have to applaud the "Go anywhere"ability of the AR-X though...
  7. And sorry Iain; I still think you should've gone for the wagon mate.
  8. Although the 260RS does present a compelling argument...
  9. Personally, I'm more a fan of the AXIS.
  10. Lol, this is much more like it.
  11. Gah; they're joining forces!
  12. You need photos of the pothole and irrefutable proof of the date; date stamp on an image will not be enough. Take a picture of the pothole with a copy of today's newspaper clearly in the frame. Then they cannot argue the fact. You'll also need to provide some frame of reference to demonstrate the size & depth of the hole; this will also assist in proving their level of responsibility. To cause that much damage; it sounds like a pretty decent hole, and they don't just appear overnight. Councils have a responsibility to repair roads to a reasonable standard; within a reasonable timeframe. It'll be an uphill battle; but if the road is unsafe, your insurer may even be able to help you.
  13. Looks good mate ; sizes and offsets? Looks like you need some new snubber rubbers for your fuel door. Nissan P/N; 78837-AG000. I think they were about $5 for the pair. Hope this isn't too boring for some people...
  14. I think the problem will be the cost of the item; if I were to fabricate a tool to do that, it would be close to the cost of a new set of studs. Why bother at that point? I'm not sure you really understand what's going on here. You do realise the longer set are only pressed into the spacer? Cutting these will not release the spacer. The ones that have the recessed nuts (the ones that require the tool) on them are the issue. Replacing wheel studs is a simple job; these ones are likely to be corroded anyway; that's why I'm suggesting cutting his losses and just scrapping the spacers and studs. At the end of the day; he's 11 days down since the first post, and the spacers are still where they started out. Why worry about wrecking something you're going to chuck in the bin? It's just stupid.
  15. I don't understand; of course cutting through the side of the spacer and stud will damage it. Explain to me how cutting 10mm off them, leaving them too short to use later on, and then drilling down the centre of the stud is going to leave it intact? Are you suggesting drilling through the captive studs in the spacer? You might as well drill a hole in the window for all the good that will do. Why wouldn't you enjoy cutting metal with a metal cutting disc on a grinder? That's what they're made to do; I'm not suggesting he uses a Chainsaw... As above ; The whole point of my post was, that if you were prepared to sacrifice the studs (which you will by drilling down the centre; I assure you); my way will take about 10 minutes a side, versus about 3 hours drilling down the centre of the studs By the time you've chiselled or welded near these spacers; you're going to throw the spacers in the bin anyway. New wheel studs are like $5 each. how much fuel and hassle have you spent already, driving all over looking for a tool no-one has? I think you might be missing the point a little...
  16. Lol not bad. Some cultures also allow the elderly to live with the young; under the premise of "passing down the knowledge" but we all know how awesome it is listening to stories of wearing an onion on your belt, and how you could buy a dogshead of ale for a hápenny on the way home from the pit. We M35 owners will nod & smile as you regale all and sundry with the tried & true ways to repair rust under your mirrors, and the benefits of Nistune; and I promise no one will mention the all pervading odour of mothballs and stale wee. I knew my sig would be funny again eventually.
  17. Congrats on the purchase Graeme; I was the guy with the bike outside Andy's place when you arrived last night. You've definitely bought a complete package for a killer price; Andy is a great bloke too. Welcome to the forum, hope to see you around. Cheers, Dale
  18. Congrats mate; shame to see it go. Is the new owner on the forum?
  19. If you're going to go to this much trouble and still have to replace the studs; why not just push a 1mm or 0.8mm cutting disc on a 4" grinder straight into the side of the spacer, (Parallel to the rotor face) about 3mm out from the mounting face on the disc? That will cut throught the stud, just below the nut holding it on. Throw spacers & studs in the bin. You'll do it in about a quarter of the time it will take with a drill, and you need minimal accuracy
  20. Who said anything about paying someone else to work on your car? I figured you'd be all over it. Double the amount of moneh for an awesome build.
  21. I'd like a "What have you done to your Black NM35 with most of an Aero kit, some painted V35 rims and a partially installed reverse camera today" thread. ZOMG; it's gonna be AWESOMEZ! :banana: That's right; THREE DANCING BANANAS!!! SOOO BADASS!
  22. Well crack on with your mods mate; no one is stopping you. Maybe even start a Build Thread. It's not about anyone taking over a thread; it's a pretty true barometer for who is doing what with their cars at any given time. Looking forward to seeing your innovative, mega dollar build; filled with never before seen mods, with no boring bits.
  23. Got a three year old at home; it's all I do now...
  24. Frankly, I don't see the need to go back to C34 vs M35 arguments. I'll play devils advocate for a minute; If you want to be like that; the C34 mod thread could easily be titled "Stuff that people have done 11ty billion times on r33 and R34 Skylines, but my point of difference is a hatch on the back of my car..." *Note*; Not my actual opinion; just a hypothetical point of view. If it's sooo painful to read through pages of "10 pages of cruise control and light and stereo modifications to pick out points of performance issues of interests" why don't you perform a mod that hasn't yet been done on an R33/34 Skyline... It's just a stupid, divisive argument. We are all in this together. For every 500hp build; there's 10 guys fitting Sumitomo calipers or rewiring their HID's. Appreciate all the little mods, along with the major upgrades that go with either car, rather than whinging because everyone isn't playing with the same toy you are.
  25. Is it an auto? If so, there is a well known issue with the OEM gearsets in the auto diffs that causes the noise. It has to do with the ratio of teeth on the ring gear to the number on the pinion. Basically, the idea with gearsets is, you never want pairs of teeth on opposing gears in the gearset to continually meet & mesh with each other as they rotate. This is exactly what happens due to the tooth count on the R31 auto gearset. It creates a wear pattern that will become quite noisy over time. This is the noise you hear. In the VL; the diff ratio is almost the same, but the tooth count on both gears is different, and the noise never happens. Changing the backlash, and also the tooth wipe on the gearset does help with making diffs quieter; but if they're already noisy, a new gearset is usually the only way out. I fitted a new gearset to my R31 diff when I changed to an LSD, and the problem was solved; never to return. I'd speak to a diff specialist before you potentially waste a bunch of time on this; they will have done about a billion of these. Even get them to put it up on their hoist whip off the back cover and check the gear mesh. It will take about half an hour + some new oil and you'll know which way to go. Good luck.
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