Daleo

I'm not really the best example unfotunately. Mine was already in Australia, and was being sold by a guy who fell on hard times. This was at a time when they were still well above $1300 landed; so I couldn't refuse.

The obvious thing would be to "Audition" the local offering if you're not too far away; that way you could confirm/eliminate it as an option without having to spend anything. I have a Legalis; and I love it. I only paid $950 for mine, so it was a pretty easy decision.

Also, if you're masking against a colour; paint the edge of the tape with the colour that is underneath the masking tape. This seals the edge of the tape stopping the new colur bleeding under the tape and gives you a razor sharp edge. I f**king hate painting.

Saw the same one driving past the pub at Wisemans, when we pulled up on the bike today.

Good job Leon; love a data trace! It resets every time you start the car anyway. Mine sometimes goes for weeks without tripping the CEL, then other times it needs to be done twice in a day. I have no idea why. You will need a latching switch, and when the CEL comes on; you complete the circuit, then hold the brake on enough to activate the brake lights for about 5 seconds. Otherwise you will need to build a circuit that feeds the wire a pulse (12v?) every 10 minutes or so.

I'll have to keep an eye out; maybe he'll spot me...

Hey Dominic, welcome to the forum; Iron chef has a great rep, and it looks like you've got a good one there! Best of luck with the car debt, the Stagea will take you mind off things. Plenty of other SA stags too. Have some fun perusing the forum, everything you need to know is here; just takes a bit of sifting. Cheers, Dale

That is a "Rack end".

Awww; burn!

Spotted zei20l's ex Stagea driving past my work a couple of minutes ago. He must like it; it was actually clean!

Personally, I think you may have to accept that there's no real way to trim injector duty cycle for each bank with the O2's in the current arrangement. As Scotty & Leon have said; the ECU is making an adjustment; not seeing the result it wants on the particular O2 sensor that should be showing a change; rather it sees a condition across all four O2's which it doesn't like. It then continues adjusting; trying to get the result it expects, until it actually affects driveability. There may be a way however; within the UPREV software to change to adjusting both banks of injectors as a unit rather than individually (and reading all 4 O2's as one; as per the VQ25DET). It might be a simple as a line of code. It won't have the pinpoint accuracy of the OEM setup; but ti would still be pretty damn accurate. I can't see another solution; unless you physically move the O2's into their respective manifolds.

Didn't want you feeling left out.

Is it possible to polish the oxidation off the lens, and maybe look at a Glassylite type product to recoat?

Yep, I hear you there... The Whiteline bars go through a lot of initial testing; and the parts you'd be looking to fit have been around for a while now, so that's a hell of a lot of cars doing "in the field" testing. If there were any issues; I can assure you that Whiteline would've long ago spotted and corrected any potential problems. I haven't personally fitted a set of Adjustable bars to an R33; but I have on an R34, which shares the same suspension architecture. I had no issues with alignment or fitting. Bearing in mind the distance between the two adjustment holes on a BNR11XZ or BNR11XXZ is only 20-30mm; and the point where the OEM link would sits, is right between the two; misalignment is negligble. With regard to the BNF24Z; it has 4 adjustment holes. The rear two, fall directly below the OEM link position (with the same centreing and 20-30mm spacing as the rear). The front two adjustment hole are accessed by flipping the link around to face the front; so the link alignment is retained. This is why there is a larger gap between the two centre adjustment hole in the pic below. Hopefully this answers your questions.

The link that I posted will get them in your hand for $49.38 And that's without combining postage for multiple purchases. Just sayin'

Spotted an Octavia in Penrith today. I got ya bro!

This set off Ebay is starting to look pretty good now huh? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300ZX-Z32-FRONT-BRAKE-HARDWARE-SHIM-KIT-OEM-NEW-/330670362953?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cfd7d5149#ht_594wt_1037 Maybe get a few people together to save on postage.

How low is your car? You might be able to put two wheels up on a kerb, and slide underneath. Watch out for hot exhausts!

Yes; I always do my final tighten up at normal ride height; this allows you to check clearances and make sure everything is in the right place. Do you have a set of ramps you can run the car up on?

11.5 volts still isn't enough for a battery in good condition; I'd say she's rooted. When mine started to get that low; it started throwing airbag faults and CEL faults. Replaced the battery, reset the faults; all was fine.

Any pad that fits a Sumitomo 4 pot caliper will be suitable; that also includes 200SX, Subaru, etc. No drama; it might even be worth pricing them through Nissan in Australia, you never know what the prices are like. I've seen wreckers try to charge through the roof for those parts; and I'm sure they remove them just so they can take two bites.

This is what I'm talking about. http://www.ebay.com....9#ht_594wt_1037 The bit that people seem to lose is the corner shims (centre of the pic) these stop the pads knocking around in the caliper. I've seen them cheaper; so it might be worth looking around a bit more.

Different to OEM; therefore potential emissions issues. I believe that ECU's can be engineered, but I think they have to have a "Security Code" locking out modifications to the tune. Nothing stopping you from having a code; don't see the point though.

Yeah rear rotors seem to cop a hard time; mine are ready for replacement. These look like good value; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110711373098?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_500wt_1054

GTSBoy is spot on regarding Whiteline. I think Noltec do one as well. I can supply this if you need one. http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W82918 My price will be less than the listed price. You can also buy an adjustable turnbuckle for around $80 (right hand thread on one end left hand thread on the other, with weld nuts, and lock nuts) which will allow you to modify a standard bar to become adjustable. I've done a couple of these in the past, and they work fine. The main issue with cutting and shutting to make a shorter, fixed length bar, is you will have to purchase bushes; as the heat of welding next to the eyelet will melt the OEM rubber. I definitely wouldn't recommend cutting the centre of the bar and re-welding; even if you plan to drill the centre, pin and plug weld the bar. If you can't fabricate it yourself, it will likely cost you more to modify than it's worth due to the bar being solid and needing additional material to modify correctly. PM if you'd like any assistance. Cheers, Dale.