Daleo

So you need personal recommendations, but you don't even tell us where you live? Specialised Brake & Clutch in Penrith (NSW) do excellent custom brake work. They do plenty of race car stuff; so I'd reckon they'd be a good spot to start.

This is quite interesting Leon, as I've often wondered whether BC actually altered any of the valving to accommodate the lighter springs. I tend to think they possibly don't; this would leave you in a position where you don't have enough compression damping; and too much rebound damping. I wonder if some of what you're feeling on rough roads is the lighter spring collapsing through some of it's compression travel, then also due to the lighter spring it doesn't rebound quickly enough to react to the next compression, gradually "packing down" the damper on bumpier roads. Most of my suspension tuning comes from Sportsbikes; so my not be applicable, but it might be worth adding some preload to the front springs; this effectively increases the spring rate on rebound, and may give you a better chance of extending the shock in time for the next compression event. I run the same BC BR's in the same car, with their standard spring rates; and my car is quite plush and well isolated on broken surfaces. It's very quiet, with no crashing at all; it's probably quieter than it was with the OEM gear. Also has all the benefits of the much better control, with no real down side.

Might be a tailshaft uni joint or a centre bearing. I had a centre bearing in my old R31 that would do that only in reverse and only when the car was stone cold. As the joint warmed up; the tiny amount of grease still inside would move around and quieten the noise. Look for grease nipples on the uni's, give them some love; if no nipples; you might have to undo the shaft to check for wear. A dry uni can be hard to diagnose until it starts to wear significantly. Good luck.

I'd be willing to bet this noise is the Compression rod (Piano) bush. !ust behing the inner mount for the lower control arm.

Spotted two today; White C34 (Bodalla?) on Talavera Rd in the arvo, and a beautiful Charcoal grey C34 on Homebush Bay Drive around 6:20pm. I was on the GSXR 1000 lane splitting. Because I can.

I'd like to do the Putty; if work permits; and the new Cafe at the halfway point is a great spot too!

You're not wrong; that last one basically looks like a Patrol with a doorslammer engine!

I'm sure it'll be fine; hardly any sand would've gone through that engine at the 2 min mark; what with the comprehensive air filter system he had fitted...

As Scotty says; not really much need with a water cooled turbo. Also, if you have an alarm; you generally lose one or two of your isolation circuits once you fit a turbo timer, because you need the fuel pump & ignition circuits live to run the engine. If it's just for track days; let the car idle in the pits for a minute or two; with the bonnet up, or just do a couple of (or at least one) proper cool down laps at the end. Damaging your brakes with retained heat would be more of an issue than the turbo in a track day scenario IMO. When I do a bike track day; I normally chill for the last half lap and ride down behind the pit complex to cool everything down. Some tracks allow the use of their internal road network for cool down once a track session is over.

Never seen that one before; check the brake fluid reservoir, there's a level probe in there. The park brake light generally doubles a low fluid warning light in most cars. You could be low on fluid, and when you accelerate you might be uncovering the probe. My missus Mazda did it only under brakes when the pads were due for replacement. It might be worth checking brake pad thickness too, when you have enough brake pad wear to activate the low level; it's time for new pads at both ends.

Yep, have you had it long? Any plans for mods?

Sounds like you might be going down the Hypergear route? I'll also be interested in utilising a loan turbo in a few months if someone is prepared to make one available, or if you want to defray the cost a bit Leon.

Nice work Scotty! You've got a lot to be proud of with the development of your car. Must be a hell of a thing to drive now!

My trailer is an 8x5 box trailer with high sides and a checker plate floor; it weighs 270kg. Loads; A tonne of Road base, a tonne of sand, a 1.2 tonne of firewood (all multiple occasions; up to 150 km) Two sports bikes, ramps, fuel tools, gear over 2500km for the Phillip Island Ride day pilgrimage several times and a billion small trips to the tip with all manner of shite. I don't know that I'd be keen to tow a car behind it; but that's just me. I can't see how you'd be under 2 tonne for you overall weight with what you're wanting; I think it's a bit much to ask of a towbar of this nature.

The Fast Fit bar is great; I have one on my car, and it's been used plenty of times in the last 3 years.

Does the noise speed up and slow down with the speed of the car? If so; you might've got a bit of wire caught around the tailshaft. If you have a set of ramps or a jack, look underneath. If not; park with the two left side wheels up on a gutter and slide underneath for a look. Could be really simple.

That's because it's chock full of Victorians! Lol Alex, it looked exactly like yours did; Pre- Mods.

Spotted Silver PNM35 while stuck in accident traffic on the M4 tonight. Stock standard; blank canvas! Also saw yellow C34 leaving the freeway while I was stuck in the traffic. Did I mention I was stuck in traffic?

The first time the turbo comes on boost; it's going to spin to 80 000+ RPM, and the exhaust turbine will be over 600 degrees. It has to be perfect when it's built, or it won't last the start up. The most beneficial thing you can do for a turbo at first startup is pre-lubing it to ensure it doesn't run dry in the first few seconds.

Yep; totally with you on that, it's fine to have a "loud" override button on your Bi-modal Maserati or your Bogandore; but if you do it on anything else you're a criminal. Like you'd ever have it on quiet. Might have to give the sound meter widget on my phone a go; I'm curious now... Should we try to do a WSID Stagea meet sometime soon? I'm keen to get down again; just need it to stop raining for a few days...

+1^^^ I'd rather be able to remove it from the car & use in my other car; or replace it when it gets old. I rarely even use the display anyway, if I had my time again; I'd have the pocket, and set the Navman up in there.

Yeah, as I was saying; they seem to be well clued up on them over here, and they're really starting to target them. A nice burnished 45deg Stainless mandrel would make it a lot harder to see in; and also provide additional attenuation, as it directs sound down. On my old 48mm Weber fed 2.4 stroker 180B SSS; a 45 deg downward facing tip made a huge difference. As you say; if you don't attract the attention to begin with; that's half the battle won. Good luck with the tune; any plans for a run down the quarter in the near future?

Nice work as always Scotty. How stealthy have you been able to make the actuator on the muffler? I'm assuming you guys have the same problem in Vic that we have here in NSW; the filth know (or think they do) what a Varex looks like and they just target them because they're essentially illegal. Yours will obviously do fine in a roadside noise test (no boost; no noise) which is quite clever, but is the baffle easily seen if you look up the pipe? Cheers, Dale.

Whether or not to enlarge seems to be a personal thing; to each his own. There's no question; it's cheap insurance to remove & inspect.

Oil change (my last bottle of GW Sougi s6000), and a yearly inspection of the turbo oil feed banjo. Was enlarged to 1.5mm last year. Sparkly clean as usual; but 15 minutes well spent. Looks like I'll be changing to the new GW SYN-X 6000 for the next one.