Daleo

Oh yes... I'm exited already!

Got my side skirts back this arvo; resplendent in KH3. Refitted; mmmm, sexehh... Also picked up some tasteful, black "Leb mesh" for my front bar aperture. Now just waiting for the bars to be finished!

BR's are what I have, very happy with them. Iain has the same. Not sure if one is "better" than the other; I'd be willing to bet the damper cartridge is the same, just prettier collars on the BR's.

Oh noes! What a pain in the arse...

I remember you said who it was, but do you want to give me a number, or a link to contact him?

Yeah, knew the "Rolling the throttle" one, and I'm trying to justify a shift kit to the "Minister for War & Finance" at the moment...

i just meant if he's having a look, and he's clever; he might find a fix for the delay when you shift manually, a la Scotty and your's ECU wire snip...

Wouldn't it just be transfer case lubricant?

Maybe find a way around the delay when triggering a "manual" shift?

It's always interesting to see the differences in peoples preferences, even when using very similar set ups. Stiff is not necessarily fast; but it can often give that impression. I'm running 3 clicks in from full soft on the rear, and fully soft on the front. Before fitting my Sway Bars, I was running 3 clicks in from full soft on the front to get some bite on turn in, but once I had the bars on, I found the front wanted to follow every groove and was just too "darty" on turn in and had to soften it. I'm not running any Preload on my front springs as I feel it only adds to the bouncy feel (springs pushing back too hard on rebound) some people find with coilovers. I still have stacks of bite on turn in, but the front end is much more compliant over choppy stuff and I believe it has more "feel" and is quicker in corners now. I think if you set up too stiff, you don't allow the weight transfer that is needed to get good mid corner grip and feedback. You just end up with a really sudden transition to understeer/oversteer; especially in wet conditions. Like I said, not saying anyone is right or wrong; but I'm interested in others opinions in this regard. Cheers, Dale.

The thing with the spring rate is; it's just a raw number. You need to take into account the attachment point is almost halfway along the lower arm; front and rear, so you have a fair amount of machanical advantage acting on the spring, which certainly justifies a heavier rate. And as Iain & Jet have said when correctly matched to a damper, the spring rate manifests differently. I'm far from an expert, but as I say, the ride in mine is not at all harsh. My missus wouldn't tolerate it after my last car.

It's a shame you're not close enough for a test drive; I think you'd be surprised at how compliant the BC's actually are; if you rode in my car you would never know it had coilovers.

So Hypergear have a highflow with good response now? Originally they wanted to go a bit big, right?

Driveway issues, wasn't it?

Nice pics Big Fella Love the C34 in Blue! Did someone hide a small child in your car before the first Pic? Looks like you've got a stowaway!

Don't be teh confuse... I'm with Iain on this one. You can get around an inch (possibly more) over Std height on an RS or RX.

+1! Good luck & congratulations, in advance! Stagea ambulance FTW!

I'll let you know in a week or so... I've been using this guy for years, he's painted many show cars, (and at least 4 of my own cars) and I trust him implicitly. I do all the running around, then just give him the parts and he sorts it out; never ask him until he's finished. Never seen anyone who does a better job or charges less. I dread the day he retires...

Dropped off my Aero Front & Rear bars and my side skirts at the painters today, for a bit of KH3 lovin'! Should have them back in a week or so.

I think you'll find it's the same as V35, M35 Stagea, and late model Patrols. The latter two obviously have a transfer case. Happy to be proven wrong, but I'm fairly sure that's it.

Sorry mate, missed the query... $165 Link; http://www.getprice....6--44917348.htm You might do better, but at least an indication. Cheers, Dale

They can still be hubcentric and not suit a Skyline.

Then it would just inexplicably crash...

Milling will definitely acheive what you're after, and you'll end up with a flat surface afterwards; something that will be very hard to get with a flap disc. Also think about a belt linisher; would be nice to smooth out your machining marks after milling, but would easily do the job from start to finish if you've got a steady hand. Use a coarse grit belt to start, then finish with a 3M belt to smooth off for painting.