Daleo

Shouldn't be overboosting. I've got a dump and full 3" system, with a 100 CPU cat, no restriction there and no overboosting. I'm only going on the factory gauge though.

This was the problem last time I tried, FAST doesn't appear to contain "Dealer Options" which is what the Aero parts appear to be. FAST only lists the complete front Aero Bumper; $2500, with lights & shrouds & mesh, comes painted, you just choose the appropriate part number.

Cam, just the surrounds for me, I think I've found an aftermarket lamp that will fill the bill very nicely; just need to confirm pricing. Cheers, Dale

Sweet! Let me know how you get on! I'll bring the coffee... Last time I sat down with Chris at my local Nissan in Penrith, he must've spent 2 hours looking through different screens, menus & sub-menus, he found bits in FAST that he'd never even seen before! Was super pissed when he couldn't get any further; mainly because he lost the trail due to the language barrier. That link is the key with a legit part number, surely we can't lose.

Great, it's been a long while coming; you must be stoked! Pics to follow?

Meh, it happens... Glad you're enjoying them

Woah! I'd just about blow the missus through the wall with that level of DSB* * Deadly Sperm Buildup.

On the ones I had made; you could orient the tab to sit in the unused hole next to the one the thread goes through. No one else has commented, and Jules never had this issue so maybe that's the way to go? There should be no load on the bar at rest. If you set the link lengths before fitting; you may inadvertently put preload on the bar due to; 1; Chassis twist (Car bodies and suspension are never perfect; close, but not perfect) 2; Bar twist (again; they're never perfect) 3; Spring sag To ensure the bar is unloaded; 1; Lock up one link and leave the other one loose; doesn't matter which one. 2; Get the car on a flat, level surface, slide under and twist the loosened link barrel (yellow anodised bit) in one direction, until you feel slight resistance. 3; Mark one flat with a texta dot, or a mark, and rotate the barrel in the opposite direction, counting the turns until you feel the same resistance as the first time. 4; Count how many turns you made, then halve the number. 5; Rotate the barrel back that number of turns, then lock up the nuts; without moving the barrel.(you can put the car up on stands or ramps to do this bit; it doesn't matter, just don't turn the barrel) You are half way between the two extremes now. Sway Bar is now completely unloaded. Bingo.

How on earth did you find that? If you're ordering a set, could you let me know when you do? I'd like a set as well Well done sir!

I'd lower it , then speak to your aligner; get them to measure and make a decision. How low are you going to go? Measure from hub centre to guard; that way wheel/ tyre diameter doesn't add variables. You'll probably find someone is running ride height roughly where you're planning, and you might get a idea that way.

Time for a "how to" guide Aaron? Certainly not a job I'm looking forward to. Or is that due to your lack of factory heat shields?

It's interesting though, 'cos I'm lower than your Nismo 20-25mm, probably more like 35-40mm, and I have perfectly even wear on my rear tyres. I'm almost on the treadwear limits, and although the tyres were flipped on the rims around 8000km ago, they're spot on. I've seen the type of wear you're describing; like a huge scallop that extends an 40mm into the tread and normally almost down to the cords. One of my original tyres exhibited this, and I was always worried about it, but it never eventuated.

I spoke to them the other day; aparrently they have more than one...

Damn Ryan, that sucks! These are very difficult to source mate; Ive been trying for quite a while to find some. They only appear in Nissans listings as part of a complete bumper assembly ($2500) No individual part number. And becasuse they are a "dealer option" they are difficult to even find in FAST. I have a link that I'll dig up for you tomorrow; maybe you'll have some luck. Cheers, Dale.

Looks good, but where are you fitting the cat? Before the flex joint, or after?

One of mine did that Leon, and I was able to spin the nut off with a rattle gun. Once off, I just put a small tack with the TIG to lock the tab to the shaft, then quenched it to avoid heat damage to the joint. Worked fine. Hate it when simple jobs turn into epics...

Cheers Cam, that was what I was trying to say; " the toe arm will stop you scrubbing the tyres out at really low ride heights; as the suspension compresses; the toe arm straightens. Factory arms often don't have enough adjustment to cope with extreme lowering." Might've gotten lost in my blathering...

Oh My God. Lambo doors! Anything good is made better with Lambo doors! Chuck Norris would be at least 83% better with Lambo doors. Lambo doors FTW!

Order placed, Bars received today! Just got to get them out to their respective owners. In a few days we should be all done. Thanks for your support. Cheers, Dale

1; Car cover/ garage 2; Accumulate moar parts 3;????? 4; Profit? Lol, just put it away and wait; it's not that long (well, it is but...), then it'll be ready when you get your license back. Buy a pushie, and get super fit in the meantime...

Reminds me of the monster's mouth from predator... Just sayin' Couldn't resist!

Reminds me of the monster's mouth from predator... Just sayin'

+11ty! The weights should be on the machined barrel of the rim, BEHIND the spokes. You can even put a little touch up paint on them if you want to hide them further. Sticking the weights in the apertures of the spokes, right on the lip of the rim is just not good enough. Tell them the rims are NOT going on a Commodore , and they need to lift their game...

Lol @ opportunist missus! What my wrapping wasn't celebratory enough? Glad you guys have got yours now; I was getting a little worried! Again, thanks to you all for your involvement; it's been a pleasure dealing with all of you. When it works as well as this one has; it makes all the effort worthwhile. Cheers, Dale.

You're actually right, the toe arm will stop you scrubbing the tyres out at really low ride heights; as the suspension compresses; the toe arm straightens. Factory arms often don't have enough adjustment to cope with extreme lowering. Instead of pointing slightly down, effectively becomes longer as it becomes parallel. This pushes the back edge of the tyre out; increasing toe. This basically forces the tyre to scrub across the road surface at an angle. Adjustable upper arms are available; as are eccentric bush kits for the upper arms, to push the top of the wheel out; reducing negative camber. If you could get enough adjustment; I'd be inclined to use eccentric bushes rather than aftermarket arms, as most are fitted with pillowball joints or rod end style joints, these transfer a lot of NVH into the car, whereas urethane bushings are much better at damping vibration. Of course if you can get hold of well made rubber bushed arms; go for it. Also pillowball style joints can wear quite badly in street driven cars unless very well weather sealed and greased regularly. The ones fitted to the cheaper arms are sometimes of poor quality and wear very quickly. The other thing to remember is that depending on your ride height; it may not even be necessary to use camber correction equipment. I'm running hub centre to arch measurements of 360mm front and 350mm rear; not especially low, but low enough, and I have 1deg neg camber all round. Between 1 to 1.5 deg neg is optimum for a street car anyway.