Daleo

Just spotted this; I reckon it took me longer to write down how I did it, and reset all my settings on the bloody stereo afterwards... Lol @ steering wheel accident! I know of so many people who've done it, probably seems very obvious; post head injury...

Bugger! I take it you just unplugged and drove in "limp mode"? Lucky you have a spare...

Cheers guys; I'm sure mine will crap out now I've asked about it...

I'm know it's been up before, but what's the P/N, what else is it compatible with, (if anything) and is there a low cost source? As I'm sure Nissan Aust want a bit for one...

Yeah, mine had fairly bad wear on the RHS through the paint down to raw leather. About 20 mins; Disconnect both battery terminals with interior light on to discharge electrical system. Pop the two small covers off the lower quadrants between steering spokes. Undo the 2 T30 security screws and remove. Gently pull airbag module free, and unhook cable from tab in centre of steering wheel boss. On the back of the airbag, unclip the tabs on the side of the 90deg yellow plug. Pull tab away from plug slightly. This will allow the Airbag cable to come free. Release plug/s for horn/wheel controls. Put keys in ignition to release steering lock. This will stop you from damaging locking mechanism when you undo the mounting nut. Ensure the steering wheel is correctly centred. THIS IS CRITICAL! Use a 19mm socket and a breaker bar to undo steering wheel nut. It is tight; so brace the wheel with one hand (or get a friend to assist if you're puny) and turn bar anti-clockwise. Wind the nut up until it's level with the top of the thread on the steering column. Do not completely remove. (This stops you being hit in the face by a flying steering wheel) Centre steering wheel again. Brace knees under steering wheel, pushing up hard; as if you're going to pop it off the taper. (You won't; it's effin' tight) Use a drift, or a 6" socket extension bar and a decent sized hammer, to hit the steering shaft. Don't club it to death; you'll collapse the column, just give it a decent hit. Repeat and you'll feel the wheel release from the taper. Only took a couple of firm hits for mine. Completely remove 19mm nut. Slide wheel off gently, and it's just the reverse to refit. Don't disturb the clock spring assy behind the wheel if you can avoid it. If you're not confident with any of the above DO NOT EVEN ATTEMPT THIS JOB!!!!

Can't you photoshop that sort of thing out? *edit* Forgot to complement you on the photo; love a close up, moving car shot!

Fitted my new steering wheel this arvo. Looks nice! Not as hard as I expected; was stressing about the Airbag a little.

Car belongs to Roullos. I believe his Stagea was at the repairer behind Carline having some paint repairs prior to turning up at Boss. Whiteline Sway bars from my Group Buy. Need some Whiteline parts?

Freakin' scotch locks! That's the problem with the "Factory" alarm being a "Dealer Fit" option. Some dealers might have a contientious installer, but I'd wager most don't...

In a box under my workbench? Yes. On the car? Not yet. Too many projects going on ATM, will have to get back to my Big Brake conversion soon. Do have to stand on them fairly hard too, and no wire snipping yet. I'd certainly like a bit of Jetwreck's turning all 4 in first though...

Yep, around 2700-3000rpm, mine is slowly churning both rear tyres and sliding the back end to one side in the lane. LSD FTW! Let it go; solid chirp and it f**ks the f**k off out of there!

Lol, I just replaced the original battery in my missus car last week; 1999 model Mazda Protege. Now THAT'S value for money...

I just meant that guys like him see this sort of thing all the time, and they're not worth frigging around with most of the time.

I have the exact same thing in mine too. Mine has been bypassed and I have a 3 point immobiliser that also operates the central locking. I'd bone that alarm and start again with a new installation, once they start having problems, they're nothing but a pain in the arse. Get in touch with Chris Rogers; I'll bet he suggest the same thing.

19x8" +38 offest will fit fine; but they'll look crap, miles too far inside the guards. Needs at least +30 offset with 8"width.

I can't believe McNish walked away. Lucky the car hit where it did though, if it had cleared that fence, it would've flattened about 4 people...

Awesome stuff , glad you like 'em!

No worries, he's still talking about "Sticking the bars"; kid is obsessed with tape... Enjoy!

Looks great, congrats! Have a lash at the airbag reset, only takes a couple of minutes, might be easier than an auto elec visit if there's nothing really wrong. Mine faulted a month ago on a trip when my missus & I were moving seats all the time 'cos we were sharing the driving. Reset, and hasn't come back a month down the track.

Faark, the back is low, could definitely come up a bit, front looks ok.

That's great mate! It is a little tricky to thread in around the exhaust, but it's possible. Dropping a couple of the hangers helps with getting a bit more space. I have some very short Whiteline H/D Ball Links that I've been working with, on and off for a while now; It's proving quite difficult, as due to the angle up over the top of the lower control arm, it's difficult to get the same kind of articulation available with the OEM links. The OEM ones don't suffer for strength, so I'm not looking to pursue it much further. The amount of machined parts I've had to manufacture so far (spacers, shouldered bushes and mount plates) to adapt the universal links would make them fairly pricey, for something that doesn't really work as well as the original.

Pics?

No worries mate, the photo is a little ambiguous, happy to help.

Sounds like a winner to me Terry Thanks to Top Secret Imports too!

Ahh ok, I thought you needed to do a MIL reset; if all you have to do is turn the key off it's not a big deal.