Daleo

Good point Iain. I reckon they would still be fairly decent as a starting point as they are neither excessively low, nor particularly high.

Ok, due to the number of people fitting these at the moment; I thought I'd supply my rough adjustment numbers for initial set up. These numbers won't be ideal for everyone, but the aim is to have a ballpark setting to speed up the fitting process, as the fronts come set extremely low, and the rears rather high. You can then fine tune heights to suit your preference, or even go to corner weighting to acheive a perfect setup. Front; Free length of coilover assembly; 387mm from underside of top mount plate, to shoulder of lower mount (the part that makes contact with the forged mounting arm) Spring length; 195mm from underside of top mount plate to upper spring collar (the part of the collar in contact with the spring and plastic washer) This will give an approximate guard to hub centre measurement of 360mm Rear; Spring perch height; 45mm from the widest dia. of the machined perch to the outer spring collar (the part of the collar in contact with the spring and plastic washer) The spring perch faces down; so the measurement will be taken from the highest part of the shoulder to the lowest flat surface of the lower spring collar. You will still be using the rubber bumper from the spring cup in the lower control arm. This will give an approximate guard to hub centre measurement of 360mm The reason I haven't included ground clearance measurements is depending on rim diameter, tyre profile, and bodywork heights; these measurements will vary wildly if you're running 17x7s with 215/5517, versus someone running 19x9.5s with 265/35/19 and so on. My car doesn't scrape on very much at all and with 245/45/18's on 18x8 V35 rims; has about a 12mm gap between guard & tyre when looking in from the side of the car; which is about spot on for my eye. Have fun guys, and feel free to add any measurements and set up tips for others to benefit from. Cheers, Dale.

Ok, later today.

Can you elaborate on the issues experienced with the oil banjo? Was it an issue with the spotfacing for the sealing washers or something else? One off event? Also feel free to elaborate about the detail of the turbo, ie; response in comparison to standard, projected potential output, any possible downside? Not expecting trade secrets, just curious. Cheers, Dale

Are they on the min thickness? It'll be between 29mm & 28mm at a guess. Only around $40-$60 to machine a set of rotors if you remove them. Link; http://www.dba.com.au/product-search DBA 42304 4000 Series Standard 310x30mm; $244.21 DBA 42304SL 4000 Series 6x6 Slotted LH 310x30mm; $300.56 DBA 42304SR 4000 Series 6x6 Slotted RH 310x30mm; $300.56 DBA 42304XS 4000 Series XS (Premium Gold painted Slotted & Cross Drilled); $350.66 I'm sure you could do better than this dealing with GSL Rallysport or someone else. Or; http://www.ebay.com....=item20b977f5c0 Or; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R34-GTT-Slotted-Front-Disc-Brake-Rotors-/120739706075?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1ca5b4db

You need R32 GTS-T calipers; The ones for 280mm x 28mm rotors. If you use R33GTS-T or R32 GTR (non Brembo) you'll need a 342mm(ish)dia rotor. I have a set of similar brackets and I'm investigating the possibility of using a reduced O.D. 370Z rotor, but I'm not convinced the rotor will sit satisfactorily inside the caliper to allow a full wipe of the brake pad without further mods (rebalancing rotors, modifying brake pads).

No worries Syd, the fronts are a piece of cake, 10 mins a side; TOPS. The back end is where the time is.

Easy! Remove wheel, follow shock to mounting point on chassis rail, undo 2x M10 bolts (13mm hex, I think). Easy! Unless the design of the BC top rear shock mount has changed; you will ned to re-use the pressed steel OEM top mount (The cup shaped bit that bolts to the chassis). The BC rubber bushes and crush tube fit perfectly into the OEM mount, so WD40 the shock thread, and remove the M12 nut (17mm socket) you might need to lightly clamp the shock in a vice to stop it turning. Only takes a couple of minutes each to change, and you're on your way. I recommend running the shock at it's shortest extension rather than OEM length. Wind it all the way into the bottom clevis until it binds, then a full turn out If you lock it up with the bottom clevis bottomed out, over time it may lock in the thread and be impossible to disassemble later on. Lock the tapered collar and you're good. Also the bottom clevis is slightly too wide IMO, I used a 1.5mm thick M12 (or 1/2") washer to take up the gap as the clevis will have to crush miles too far otherwise. You could easily machine some small spacers if you have access to a lathe, but washers worked fine. To remove the STD rear spring it is easier to undo the inner mount for the lower arm (one with the spring seat) and lower the whole arm supported with a jack. Mark the eccentric bolt on the lower arm before removal. You'll be aligning once you're done; but at least you're no worse off. The STD spring is very long and you won't be able to swing the arm far enough down to remove the spring from the seat. If you like; I can PM you some base height measurements and some pics of my ride height as a starting point for adjustment. I'm at work at the moment, but I'll do it tomorrow morning.

Yeah, I agree Scotty. After all the raving people did about Sougi, they're literally on my doorstep so that's why I went there. This was ages ago too, long before it was discontinued. I can't imagine why you would recommend a bargain basement oil (of the wrong weight) to a customer who is looking for a high performance product.

I'm amazed at the positive feedback everyone has about them; my experience was so shockingly different, I simply will not use anything they make. Motul & Silkolene (Fuchs) are the only oils that go anywhere near my engines.

Same guy recommended a 20w50 mineral for my Stagea; actively tried to steer me away from Sougi, even after I specifically asked for it. Tried to feed me all manner of bunkum about how a mineral was WAAAY better for my situation than a Semi or even Full Synth. Explained the engine, and the fact it was turboed, told him that cost wasn't an issue but he still pushed it. I asked if he was a salesman, but he assured me he was one of their engineering staff.

Yeah, well the GW "oil engineer" recommended a 20w50 mineral oil for my 170hp GSXR1000; Worst. Oil. EVER. I argued the toss with him, as I was face to face in their head office in Penrith, and he assured me HEAPS of other GSXR owners were using it, and loved it. Well either they, or him are stupid wankers. Bike wouldn't idle, wouldn't rev out; felt about 30hp down. Threw that shit away, never again. Silkolene 10w40 full synth; back to normal. Bad advice; shit oil.

Terry, I like the sounds of the proposed finish point, haven't been there in years. Looking forward to it! Not available for the organisers meeting, but if volunteers are required, let me know if I can assist. Cheers, Dale

Under 10.99sec it's cage time. I think that would be a pretty cool reason to get kicked out in your STATION WAGON!

Do you have a target you're aiming for (quicker than last time obviously), or is it just a "see what happens"?

You should be able to use a long breaker bar (or Strong arm) with a socket on the chassis rail. Wrap the end of the bar with rag to stop it marking the paint, disconnect CAS & fuel pump fuse, get someone to give the key tiny hits quickly on & off as you support the bar as it slowly swings onto the chassis rail. One last hit will release bolt and you should be able to undo the rest of the way easily. It sounds bodgy, but stacks of mechanics do it exactly this way and I've done it stacks of times on RB's with no issues.

I want a t-shirt with that on it.

I think he just means jack up one corner at a time.

Sadly, this car had the blanking plates like your car, and anyway they were destroyed along with the bar in the accident. If they were still available, I'd already have them; I asked Iain exactly the same question months ago...

Me mad? Nawwww Sounded like you were the irritated one, up there on your high horse...

Yep, another vote for powdercoat. For around $50 a wheel; you can't go wrong, heaps tougher than paint.

I've never heard of anywhere that does that, matching touch up paint isn't hard, but seaming the tops onto the cans and pressurising them is not a simple task. If you have a chat with a decent painter, a lot will help you out on price. If you're prepared to remove the skirts, clean them up, drop them off, then be patient and wait until they can squeeze your parts in; most places will do a bunch of small parts (i.e grilles vents, bumpers etc) every week or so. As long as you don't ring up nagging if it takes a couple of weeks; you could get a cheap, good quality job. That's what I'm doing at the moment with my painter, got my skirts back in 3 days, but I've been waiting 11/2 weeks for my front & rear bars. I'm busting to have them back; but I don't want to bother him because he's charging less than half what he would if my car was in his workshop. Just a thought.

You're right ; forgot the new ones were 8.5" Axis are 18x8" Yeah 16.35mm , so the guards will need a roll, but not very much. Depends on tyre width.

That's a cracker of a colour there Slippylotion; looks great.

Your AXIS rims are +30 offset, so they'll go out 10mm.