Daleo

Happy birthday Iain; good luck with the buttsex!

Still no win with the seat frame Jules? 84 000km on the clock, 40 000km in my care; P/Side Rocker Cover Gasket, New Cabin Filter and a Parker Globe. Other than that; A couple of random SRS resets, and routine maintenance, and selective upgrading, that's it.

Nah; expose that VQ for full effect. It's better for heat management without it on anyway.

Well there you go. Interesting how polite they can be when people grow a bit of backbone and stand up for themselves. I think so many of them end up becoming really cynical when they deal with the general public; not everyone is a crim or a smartarse, but they prejudge a little too quickly sometimes. Mind you, there's powertrippers in every job. I've met a few absolute gems in my travels but some are mongrels; regardless of how polite & reasonable you are.

Surely it would be best to ask for their business card or their name and station at that point; I'm not sure they are allowed to refuse a reasonable request for identification. I guess it really depends on the situation; there can be little justification for swearing in a room full of children...

The spacers he'd be looking at, would have studs in them and nuts to bolt them on to the cars hub. You don't want massive long studs with 30mm slip on style spacers; it's too much load on the studs, flexing them. 10-15mm slip ons would be about the maximum IMO. A bolt on spacer is a much better alternative; but only hubcentric ones. Sarge; Not looking to insult or offend you; but 5 threads is nowhere near enough to hold a wheel on; you'll just pull the thread out of the nuts, and chuck a wheel. As a fitter, I have always used 1.5 times the diameter of the thread as an acceptable amount of thread engagement. So on a M12 x 1.25 wheel stud; 18mm is optimum. At least aim for 12-15mm. Please go to Repco and buy yourself some longer wheel studs before something terrible happens. It'll cost you $60 and an afternoon on the driveway.

Some of them do like to do this sort of thing; I guess the only thing you can really do is go to your local police station, and report it as a "Road Rage" style driving formal complaint. You don't have to tell anyone that it might have been an U/C car; but continue to follow it up and insist that they get back to you about what has been done. The police claim to be very serious about this type of complaint, and if you continue to chase them about it, someone might get a little arse kicking. I made a formal complaint several years ago about an undercover car (I knew this but didn't let on) in my local area; the dopes were doing repeated 120km/h fly-bys in my 50km/h limit street in their shiny new toy. Asked to speak to the Desk Sergeant; told him about a White V8 Commodore "hooning" in a residential street, gave him the rego, and told him that I had video footage that clearly captured said vehicle travelling at high speed AND also showed it's number plate (might not have been entirely honest about that part). I told him I was concerned due to the number of children that played in the street and suggested that if some officers had the time; that they should come to my home, and view my video; so as to punish the guilty party. He then let on that he "might" know who was responsible; and that it would stop forthwith. It did; and those certain individuals (notorious hardarses) were not seen for quite some time in my area. It is sad; that it only takes a few bad apples to spoil the whole bunch. No one is above the law.

EGT and Trans temp would be my choices along with Boost.

Dude, not disagreeing with you on this at all. I'm sure you are right on the money. There was a spreadsheet I saw a while back on the forum; but I can't seem to dig it up right now.

Due to my awesome measuring skillz I'm sure I measured 360mm the other day... Pics for reference. 350mm front; 345mm rear; Overall; This gives around 15mm of rake to the rear, and the lower edge of my front lip is 150mm off the deck.

From Hollow to Solid in genereal term would be around what you're quoting, but it's a generalisation. Based on the wall thickness of the hollow bar in question and also the O.D. of the hollow tube, it could be greater or lesser than that. There's a Whiteline discussion paper I'll link for you, you can see it's not a simple question to answer; http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/Hollow%20vs%20Solid%20Swaybar.pdf I'll do a little digging tonight and see fi I can come up with a quantifiable number. Cheers, Dale.

Thanks for the kind words Duncan, makes the effort worthwhile.

Yep, always crack & loosen arms to settle bushes. Usually just run the car up on some ramps once I'm done; easier than preloading arms. I think the rake on mine is only 10mm front to rear (rear higher). Iain, I stand by my "Loss of rake equals increased understeer" theory, but it must be in relation to original heights; not just a blanket "Rear high equals awesome handling", probably should have clarified.

Well it must be an easy repair if a panel shop worker won't touch it... Best kept... Yeah, except the smashed in front corner. "Titanic; one of the best kept examples of 19th century ship building. Only crashed into one iceberg, superficial damage; easy repair..."

It's better to have the rear a little higher, otherwise you start to lose caster; which then promotes understeer. Even with equal front & rear hub to guard measurements; you will still have an amount of rear rake.

Certainly not too shabby for a wagon! Some nice pics of you car on the link; took a few, must've liked it.

I was up there a few weeks back; definitely attracted some attention...

I'd suggest; Front BNF24Z Sway bar - 24mm heavy duty blade adjustable (qty 1 in pack) Rear; BNR11XZ Sway bar - 22mm X heavy duty blade adjustable (qty 1 in pack) And Links; Front KLC108 Sway bar - link kit heavy duty adj steel ball (qty 2 in pack) Rear; KLC109 Sway bar - link kit heavy duty adj steel ball (qty 2 in pack) For starters... I can get great prices on Whiteline Products, I've run 3 Group Buys so far; to get an idea of my prices, check out my current Group Buy; http://www.skylinesa...-bar-group-buy/ Check out the list of parts for the R34 GT-t, and let me know what you're after; http://www.whiteline...+2WD+11%2F98-04 PM me if you're interested. Cheers, Dale.

I think you're probabaly pretty close to the mark with your sale price especially with good rubber, they have very minimal damage.. I bought a set to use on my Stagea that were more damaged than these for $350 without usable rubber. The thing to remember with the Shadow Chrome finish, is the paint itself is over $200 per litre, and requires multiple coats. It also requires all four rims to be painted at the same time. It starts with a black base coat and is built up with the Shadow Chrome finish; getting progressively lighter with each coat. I had quotes of $250 per wheel for this finish. You'll pay around $600 for refurbishment and a good 2pack paint job; this will stand up to anything you can throw at them. Another way to go is powdercoat; from around $50 per wheel and you can get pearl & metallic colours (they do cost more). Link to get an idea of what you can acheive; http://www.cravedcoatings.com/ Not trying to tread on your toes; just sharing my experience. I really wanted the Shadow Chrome, but ended up with Toyota "Tungsten" on mine; looks really nice. Pic; Cheers, Dale.

Bugger! I have a contact who has custom made Sway Bars for me in the past; does excellent work, but is not as cheap as off the shelf. Let me know if you're interested and I can give you some more details & prices. Cheers, Dale

ZOMG! Trabant wagon!

That's great! Australia is tops and so are Stageas! Combining the two will bring you much happiness. I too have a black Stagea, live in Australia, and I'm incredibly happy, coincidence; I think not... Seriously, I'd pose the question of personal imports to Iron Chef; I'm sure he'll give you the info you need. I think the rules are quite different regarding mods on personal imports, if your mods are able to pass an engineers inspection; you should have no real issues getting registration, and if your employer is footing the bill, then that's one of the biggest hurdles taken care of. That and I like the look of your car; so bring it over here, and find out just how much fun it is to leave a black car parked in the sun, on a 40 degree day... Do you have leather seats?

Specialised Brake & Clutch in Penrith will do them for $60 per rotor. Are you talking about Slotting a set of Used Rotors or Brand New ones? If they break the milling cutter, you pay for it; another $60, and so on; this can get expensive. This is the catch with slotting USED rotors; they sometimes develop hard spots that will break the milling cutter. A brand new rotor will not.

White Aero kitted NM35 in the Mega Centre Carpark in Penrith today, haven't seen it around before. Is the owner on here?

Now that would be a worthwhile reason to change.