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Daleo

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Everything posted by Daleo

  1. Jebus, you were only talking about this the other day! I think we should put this thread to bed, it IS causing bad luck to befall Stageas!
  2. A bunch of the M35 guys have already done just this. R32 GTR discs & calipers also work. They will fit fine, BUT the V35 calipers use an M14 mounting bolt whereas the R33 calipers use an M12 mounting bolt. You can either re-drill & tap the hole in the mounting tab on the caliper to M14 (It's a steel insert, pressed into the alloy casting), or machine a 14mm O.D. 12mm I.D. sleeve to fit in the holes in the hub.
  3. Doesn't really make any difference to fuel economy, but does increase intake/ turbo spooling noise.
  4. So he's into moustache's? Lol!
  5. I see you're in Penrith, try these guys; Sol-Stop Unit 1, 70 Mulgoa Rd Penrith NSW Phone: (02) 4731 1975 They'll do a pair of front windows to match privacy glass for around $80 as a cash job. Excellent work, My last car was tinted by these guys and it was still perfect after 8 years.
  6. How rude of me not to update. I sent him a serve of Domino's finest at 10pm last friday, cos I still had the shits; 5 ham & pineapple, 5 cheese (didn't want him to enjoy them too much). And one of my mates is a bit of a late night drunken dialler, so I gave him the number, after 2 calls a night for 4 days; he reckons he's not answering anymore... I'm not ready to give up on you yet Symond, I still have so much love to give! Also, there's another 6 pizza shops in your area that I haven't used yet...
  7. I could listen to all this talk of turbo matching all day, the bloody things fascinate me. I almost WANT mine to fail so I can join the fun... Almost...
  8. I actually bought them for my new calipers (R32GTR), which are M10, so yes, but the stock rears are an M6 so; no. Nice; thanks for the offer Craig, hadn't thought of that, was just going to check gasket compatibility as I'm going to need one anyway. Anyone feel like doing a FAST search on the sump gasket part number? VQ35 and VQ25det? Apologies for on/off/on/off topic chat... I think?
  9. So I might be able to make some more money fitting it for them? Me too Andy, roll on weekend for the mock up! Lets see how good my measuring is... Only other issue I can think of, is that the rotor radius may not fit fully inside the caliper.
  10. This one doesn't, but I'm only a threaded hole away. The one that did have it was another $30. I'm about to find out if it'll fit, if not I'm sure a V series owner will take it off my hands.
  11. It was cheap & simple. I can't really justify the expense of a cooler setup with an oil thermostat, and that's the only way I'm prepared to do it; so more oil+deeper sump is a win for me right now. That and it was a box filler for my brake brackets...
  12. These turned up today Going to be adding a bit of oil capacity & trying an interesting budget brake upgrade...
  13. I'll be interested to see these manifolds when they're done
  14. Er, no. I'll let Scotty fill you in, but suffice to say it's been EXTENSIVELY developed. R.I.P.S have quite a job ahead of them.
  15. Possibly air flow meter. Good luck.
  16. If clamping the fuel line didn't help, perhaps the fuel pump isn't supplying enough fuel. You need to get a pressure gauge on the fuel line to see what's going on.
  17. Ok, technical reasons; As RS4s mentioned, the main reason this gasket will leak, is because the shrink & harden; due to the heat radiating from the exhaust manifold & turbo. Repetitive heating & cooling does damage rubber seals in this way. This particular gasket is likely to be better than 10 years old. Once the gasket has shrunk & hardened , no matter how tight you do up the screws the gasket doesn't push down hard enough to seal properly, nor will it conform properly to the jointing surface; because the rocker cover has bottomed out on the head. Repetitive heat cycling is also the reason I wouldn't use silicone to reseal the gasket. Very few oil jointing silicone gasket sealants are rated for more than 200-300deg. The exhaust manifold & turbo can exceed 700-800deg. I'd be willing to bet the one on the intake side is not leaking at all. Using silicone to fix a leaking gasket is false economy. When a gasket leaks, you replace the gasket. The leaking gasket is the ROOT CAUSE; silicone is just a band aid solution. The only other possibility at this point is that the screws that hold the rocker cover down, may have come loose. In this case I would still recommend replacing the gasket due to it's probable age. When a customer pays me to do a job; they do not expect to have to bring it back again because I tried to save $30-$40. Also, my profit is gone if I have to do it again; along with my reputation. Regarding the loose nut, as above; use a griplock nut or "hugnut" otherwise you could use a lock tab under the nut. Locking compounds aren't really suitable here as most loctites are only rated to 300-400deg, then they break down. Do the job ONCE; do it RIGHT. Hope this helps, Dale.
  18. What; and miss the excitement?
  19. The steel plugs often bind in the aluminum housing of the box due to electrolysis. If you can give the plug a sharp hit with a hammer, this will often free it. Alternatively, a can of freeze spray (CRC make it) will shrink the plug & break the bond.
  20. Not having a go pip, I know where you're coming from. No offence intended. Cheers, Dale.
  21. +11ty billion. Very soon...
  22. Arx 18's are 18x8, +40 offset. They need to be at least +30, or +20 at 8" to look any good on an RS/RX, and even more on an ARX. PCD is; 114.3x5 as above.
  23. Doing this with spring collars always damages the collars, especially if they're alloy, and sometimes the threads. Just wait and use the spanners...
  24. Yeah, I had mine done when I first bought it, as the paint was in bad shape; covered in fine scratches all over. The M35/V35s are well known for their soft clear coat. The paint correction alone on mine cost around $350, but my guy spent almost 2 full days on it. It came back looking like oiled glass, I couldn't believe it. 2 years down the track I'm looking at doing it again. You should be able to get a quality detail, with paint correction starting around $400, and you could then just maintain it yourself with some quality products, and then detail again when its required. Obviously, the sky is the limit with this sort of thing. Check out the Styling thread or the S.A thread for a good detailer.
  25. Good job, I hope you can get the numbers to make it worthwhile. Seems to be the only stumbling block with Group Buys. How will you go with not publishing the price?
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