Daleo

Ok, I was looking at this; http://cgi.ebay.com/...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT mainly because I want to run an oil temp sender as well.

G'day Dust, You didn't happen to speak to Wayne at Whiteline recently? He mentioned yesterday someone from NZ had been on to him. No worries mate, once we get it all the pricing sorted, I'll find out the most competitive way to get the parts to you, and then I can give you some options. I'm sure there's a way to do it without huge expense; possibly a bulk package to someone in NZ then distributed locally from there. Cheers, Dale.

+1, spotted the adaptor, for $150 delivered, but still need sensors. Resealed a couple of leaking trans cooler fittings, goo didn't like ATF so now I'm using proper hydraulic sealant like I should have... Removed damaged D bush from front sway bar and refitted factory bits, much better. A little disappointed TBH. Going to look for urethane bushes to suit factory D mounts, front & rear. Also just bought one of these; http://cgi.ebay.com/...MEWAX%3AIT#shId

All good guys. Been on the phone with Wayne today, once the NM35 Sway bars are officially a stock item, ( Jules is booked in for his to be fitted Friday) we will be able to put up some group buy details for Uprated Bars, Ball links, mounts and possibly FRONT ball links and mounting hardware! I'm busier than a one legged man in an arse kicking competition with this right now, but rest assured, a week or so from now, I should have a tonne of bits for you all to bust a nut over, so save your pennies! They'll all be competitively priced and you'll be able to get hold of bits as you need them so it won't break the bank. Cheers, Dale.

Ok, a small update. After a week or so on the car, I elected to get underneath to check everything for tightness, and also take this opportunity to go one hole stiffer (maximum) on the front bar. I discovered this; As you can see, the "D" bush has split into multiple pieces. The other D bush is completely undamaged. The mount itself is completely undamaged. The bar itself and the powdercoat is undamaged. There was no noise or anything that would allude to an issue. I have removed both and re-installed both factory front D bushes and mounts. Because the bars are both the same diameter, the original bushes are perfectly ok to re-use. I don't know if mine was a random failure (which I believe is the case) and I will be in touch with Todd to get his opinion tomorrow. I would urge you all to check the condition of your bushes and tightness of mounting bolts at around 100 km or so. Please contact me immediately on 0410691143 if you have any concerns whatsoever. Regards, Dale.

Spoolin12 , is running 19x9.5 at what must be around+20 odd now. At +30 his were still under the guards... Just. The tops tuck in more the lower you go. He'd be the man to talk to, as I think his rims are probably the widest and the most aggressive offsets on here. + or - doesn't mean anything with regard to dish; only offset. However, the closer to a -ve offset you go; the better chance of dish.

Damn, where was your mum when I was buying my boiling arse hot black Stag...

"it comes standard with nismo electronic suspension" I don't think so... Nismo; yes, electronic; no. Anyway some pics of "boostedaxis" Stagea on 22"x 9.5s They have monstrous arches, but 22's are going a bit far, and bottoming out on speed humps is hardly a problem I'd be trying to solve with wheels... Attached thumbnail(s)

+1. Shit driving is societies great leveller...

Except the resulting release of co2 as the dry ice melts...

That's great, glad to hear it all went reasonably smoothly! What sensor did you have to move? Enjoy!

No worries, hope it all goes well.

G'day Skip, Congrats on the purchase mate. The 350z bar is NOT identical. It is 12.5mm narrower each side, or 1 inch narrower overall. This places an unnecessary side load on the already under strength ball links & upper mounts. This is the main reason behind paying "twice as much" for a custom made component that fits the car perfectly. Also, in comparison to a 350z, the wagon carries a significant amount of extra weight up quite high; in the form of glass & steel, and most of the bars available do not allow for that. The Selby rear and my own group buy rear bar is 24mm adj; versus 20-22mm for the 350z style bars. Several suspension specialist consulted during my group buy agreed, and felt that using a smaller rear bar, would comprise the balance of the end result. I believe Paramour may have his Whiteline bars fitted by now, and it should be very interesting to hear his feedback, as the whiteline kit uses a quite large front bar (32mm) & a small rear. This may have been done to keep some of the understeer bias of the std car. Set up the right way, my group buy bars will actually four wheel drift controllably and even oversteer under power out of a corner now. Whiteline did extensive on car data testing to arrive at their numbers, so I'm sure the end result will be great. Hopefully this answers your questions, and everyones patience with me will be rewarded this week with some group buy information. Cheers, Dale.

Congrats on your course mate! Good luck!

In some sub arctic countries, rather than heat a garage, they do exactly this, just need to remember to plug your car into the power point before going to bed.

No worries, I'm on it guys, there'll be info in the next few days ok? Modified, as in with more solid upper mounts? If so then yes, thats my intention, if people wish to have them.

If it's rough, you'd be better holding out for a nice one, they are available, be patient! A dud will end up costing you more in the long run than you'll save. Happy hunting!

Nice one, got a link for the heat shielding?

I know, it's the opposite of what you'd expect. I don't have an explanation either... I still think there's probably enough flow in reserve to open up an orifice by 1mm though, there'll have to be a restriction in the core before the oil goes to drain anyway, otherwise you'd never generate any oil pressure in the core. The orifice is just there to ensure you don't feed the core more oil than it can get rid of, thus running it over pressure. 9 bar (130psi) seems quite high, but 3-5 (43.5 - 72.5psi) seems spot on the money at cruise. I guess the deeper you dig with these engines, the more you find. If it was a problem, you'd be blowing seals out all over the place.

The rotational speed of the shaft doesn't dictate oil flow, its not a pump. However differences in base engine oil pressures would dictate a larger or smaller orifice to provide equal amounts of flow. Bush bearing turbos work like this; In the housing there is a machined recess for the shaft bearing. There is a tiny amount of clearance around the bearing, it is not pressed into the housing (generally they are a whitemetal or whitemetal coated bronze) the impeller shaft passes through the bearing. There is a tiny amount of clearance to the shaft. This is called a floating bearing, as the bearing floats on a cushion of oil, and none of these surfaces come into direct contact, as there is always a film of pressurised oil separating them. Without this floating bearing, the turbo would never be able to sustain rotational speeds up to, and sometimes in excess of 100,000rpm. I used to build & balance Napier turbos with compressor wheels over a foot wide, and would spin to 118,000rpm (tacho input on shaft for dyno tuning) The only fixed bearing in the turbo core is the thrust bearing. This stops the rotating assembly from coming into contact with the compressor cover. It has radial grooves to feed oil out from the centre of the shaft across the thrust face. You can see why this would require more oil than a BB core; it's effectively splash lubrication as the oil is only used to wet the balls in a BB core, so the pressure required is virtually nil, whereas the bush core actually needs a pressurised oil supply in the housing to keep everything apart.

Not trying to sound smart, but there seems to be a bit of confusion surrounding trans coolers and their use; hopefully this helps. The thing in the bottom tank is a heat EXCHANGER; not specifically a cooler or heater. If the water is hotter than the trans fluid; heat will be transferred to the fluid, if the fluid is hotter than the water; heat will be transferred to the water. Under duress, the trans transfers a decent amount heat into the trans fluid, it can easily go over 100 deg in the right conditions. The heat exchanger in the radiator is usually nothing more than a simple copper or aluminium tank, no fins for extra surface area. They are not particularly efficient. So in extreme conditions with high water temp, using a dedicated trans cooler is much more effective at stripping that heat out of the fluid, making life easier for the gearbox. Also, ambient temp is always going to be lower than the temp of the water in the cooling system. A side benefit is reduced load on the cooling system. Running the fluid throught the radiator mounted exchanger, in addition to an external cooler just ensures the trans fluid will be around the same temp as the radiator water, not ambient temp in cold conditions; as Pipster & Kidafa have said.

I remember you saying the same thing about Danny's GCG BB, that was LOUD! Might be doing a turbo on mine soon too...

You're right Scotty, Bush bearing turbos definitely require more oil flow than Ball Bearing turbos. While this is Garrett's own info, it still applies; http://www.turbobyga...enter/faqs.html Does my turbo require an oil restrictor? Oil requirements depend on the turbo's bearing system type. Garrett has two types of bearing systems; traditional journal bearing; and ball bearing. The journal bearing system in a turbo functions very similarly to the rod or crank bearings in an engine. These bearings require enough oil pressure to keep the components separated by a hydrodynamic film. If the oil pressure is too low, the metal components will come in contact causing premature wear and ultimately failure. If the oil pressure is too high, leakage may occur from the turbocharger seals. With that as background, an oil restrictor is generally not needed for a journal-bearing turbocharger except for those applications with oil-pressure-induced seal leakage. Remember to address all other potential causes of leakage first (e.g., inadequate/improper oil drain out of the turbocharger, excessive crankcase pressure, turbocharger past its useful service life, etc.) and use a restrictor as a last resort. Garrett distributors can tell you the recommended range of acceptable oil pressures for your particular turbo. Restrictor size will always depend on how much oil pressure your engine is generating-there is no single restrictor size suited for all engines. Ball-bearing turbochargers can benefit from the addition of an oil restrictor, as most engines deliver more pressure than a ball bearing turbo requires. The benefit is seen in improved boost response due to less windage of oil in the bearing. In addition, lower oil flow further reduces the risk of oil leakage compared to journal-bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure entering a ball-bearing turbocharger needs to be between 40 psi and 45 psi at the maximum engine operating speed. For many common passenger vehicle engines, this generally translates into a restrictor with a minimum of 0.040" diameter orifice upstream of the oil inlet on the turbocharger center section. Again, it is imperative that the restrictor be sized according to the oil pressure characteristics of the engine to which the turbo is attached. Always verify that the appropriate oil pressure is reaching the turbo. The use of an oil restrictor can (but not always) help ensure that you have the proper oil flow/pressure entering the turbocharger, as well as extract the maximum performance. 1 thou = 0.0254mm 30 thou= 0.762mm.

Mine does this also, in fact; those are the exact same peak numbers as on my Informeter. It's not nice to look at, but before you had the Informeter it was exactly the same; you just didn't know it. You have to understand this isn't an HQ holden, these engines are designed to run in the mid 80's minimum. Modern engines run tight tolerances and the running temperatures reflect that, higher engine running temperatures also promote better emissions (notwithstanding the rich/retard things cars do when the weather gets really hot). My last Honda road bike (CBR 929RR) had a digital temp gauge; running temp was 89 deg, would routinely run out to 106 deg, fan would come on drop it to 98 deg. I once rode it on a 47 deg day with a pillion, with the temp gauge sitting on 102 deg for 5 hours. I did 75000km on this bike and when I sold it it went EXACTLY the same as the day I bought it. Most Honda road cars, the optimum running temp is 90 -95 deg, it's just a number. The cooling system is under pressure (10- 15psi is normal), water does not boil at 100 deg if it is pressurised. (I think the rule of thumb is an extra degree for every psi of pressure) As Cephas says; the thing to worry about, is if the car doesn't cool down once you're moving (more than 70km/h). This means the cooling system, or the volume of water in the system is inadequate for the purpose. Of course, any amount of heat you can remove from the syatem is a good thing (i.e external oil or trans cooler ducted AWAY from the radiator) just gives more headroom for the system to operate in extreme conditions.

http://www.howeperfo...ssories-new.htm Part # 1110 Steering Speeder/Reducer 1.5:1 Ratio Also available in 2:1 Ratio (Part # 1112). Part # 1115 In-Line Stealth Steering Speeder/Reducer Available in 2:1 Ratio only.