Daleo

Thing is, the front diff isnt part of the gearbox, it gets it's drive from the transfer case; through a forward facing driveshaft, and it's rotational speed is the same as the rear tailshaft, so it's ratio won't change. The thing you WILL want to look at is the ratio spacing of the gearbox; i.e it may have a very short first gear due to it's use in a 4WD.

Bought a set of Speedbleeders; https://www.speedbleeder.com/ SB 1010 x 4 to go in with my new calipers. Also got a set for my GSXR 1000. 7 Bleeders + postage: $56. Had these on my old CBR 929 RR, makes bleeding a breeze

Payment made this morning! I have 3 sets of bars in my car right now. They look beautiful. Don't worry, the "D" bushes and new clamps are there too Qld guys; you should have yours Monday or Tuesday. WA guys; you should have yours Thursday or Friday at the latest! Alex; See you tomorrow morning. Russel; See you Monday. Thanks again everyone for making this happen! Cheers, Dale This post has been edited by Daleo: Today, 11:50 AM

Payment made this morning! I have 3 sets of bars in my car right now. They look beautiful. Don't worry, the "D" bushes and new clamps are there too Qld guys; you should have yours Monday or Tuesday. WA guys; you should have yours Thursday or Friday at the latest! Alex; See you tomorrow morning. Russel; See you Monday. Thanks again everyone for making this happen! Cheers, Dale

Bless those chicks in bikinis! Lol dude!

Sucks mate, did you get the old "but I didn't see you..." hope injury is nothing too serious.

http://www.speedingf...onsultants.com/ "Radar must not be used at any location or in a mode that would give rise to legitimate adverse criticism or a complaint that radar is a means of raising government revenue"….. This is particularly true of legislated safety procedures the police are supposed to carry out whilst engaged in speed enforcement operations. Just as a sample did you know that when you are pulled over by a policeman using a Lidar/Laser gun, the following rules must be adhered to by that policeman. It states clearly and I quote; "At all times a fully marked Police vehicle is to be positioned on the roadway at the stopping location to provide early warning and a corridor of safety for motorists. The roof message bar and/or warning lights of the police vehicle must be utilised." When was the last time you saw that happen? They hide behind bushes and bustops, park their vehicles around the corner or up on the footpath behind those bustops creating havoc for pedestrians, use unmarked vehicles and deliberately operate from the reserves in between major freeways. They hide up elevated off ramps, in road works, in fact everywhere their own laws declare they are not allowed to operate in! Driveways and side streets are NOT part of the "Stopping Location" criteria and therefore not legitimate. If it was my driveway, I'd park the F##ker in and catch the train to work for a week.

In my experience, the Police won't lift a finger to get the camera footage, and most carparks will refuse to supply it on "Privacy" grounds Generally if you don't have a witness you're on your own... Really sucks mate, hopefully you aren't out of pocket too much.

Sway Bars are finished! I'll be going down on Friday morning to pick up the sets for the Sydney lads, and the interstate ones will be sent Friday afternoon, so with any luck everyone will Barred Up by midweek. Thanks for your patience guys, Dale.

Sway Bars are finished! I'll be going down on Friday morning to pick up the sets for the Sydney lads, and the interstate ones will be sent Friday afternoon, so with any luck everyone will Barred Up by midweek. Thanks for your patience guys, Dale.

Lol dude, it's not the only thing I call them...

I call them "Community Police", They spend their lives getting everyone's way, so that nobody does things that they don't think should be happening; ie, Speeding, drinking, people having fun, etc I followed a woman in a Landcruiser for 15km last week, who sat, pacing along in the right hand lane, next to the right hand rear wheels of a Semi trailer ; too scared to go past I imagine, but plainly too stupid to realise she's sitting in the most dangerous position possible. Eventually, the truck driver virtually ran over the front of her car changing lanes to allow the traffic to pass by in the left hand lane. All the while she was trying to cut back into the left lane to block the traffic again. Didn't want to go past, just didn't want anyone else to... That part of my trip took easily 15 mins longer than normal because of this brain donor...

No worries, I'll give you a call early next week mate.

Group Buy will be happening next month. Front is a little complicated, got one off Stephen's wreck I can use as a sample? Whiteline haven't seen anything like it. I've got a couple of ideas. Thinking about a profile cut block, with one of their ball joints threaded into it. Send me a price and I'll take one off your hands. Cheers, Dale

Good luck with the career change my missus sister works at Liverpool & Campelltown Hospital, doing this. Hugely challenging, but very rewarding for her. Good on you.

That's right Andy. Yes, the link is their 350z Heavy duty link; http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail.php?part_number=KLC141 Group Buy price will be SIGNIFICANTLY better than Whiteline's retail price; they do not discount, to protect their dealers. The dealers however, CAN discount.

Third time lucky don't know why the pics didn't appear, hopefully this time. So I recieved these in the mail from Wayne on Thursday, and fitted them Friday morning. They are a Whiteline 350Z Heavy Duty Swaybar Ball Link. They replace this little fella; The originals were still in ok condition; the boots were starting to perish a little, but still sealed. No free play, but not tight. So probably indicative of most examples fitted to local cars. The Ball joint is more than twice the size of the original and should be able to take a hell of a lot more load, whilst still remaining quiet & maintenance free, unlike a race style aircraft or rose jointed link. As you can see, they came with neat little nylon shields to further protect the ball joint from stones, dirt etc. I removed the rifling from the centres of the shields with a scalpel, and also cut them down to 10mm so they would fit neatly over the shaft hex, and not press against the ball joint dust shield. They came with nyloc nuts, which I elected not to use; preferring to stay with the shouldered nuts used on the original links. This decision was twofold; 1; Using the nylocs precludes the fitting of the dust shields, as you would need to put a spanner on the flats otherwise the shaft will turn as you try to do up the nyloc. 2; The originals were fine, and a little loctite will do the trick. Fitted to the car; Rolled the car up on some ramps, chocked front wheels, car in Park. Everything is accessible now. I elected to remove the top mounts with the links attached and fit the new ones on the bench as space is limited. My top mounts were in perfect condition. The shafts are a bit longer than the originals, but do not cause any clearance issues under the car. Once the mounts were bolted in and the sway bar was reattached, I locked up one side, ensuring the ball joints were at 90 deg angles as per the std links. I then located the other to the swaybar and adjusted the turnbuckle until the swaybar was not preloaded in either direction NOTE *this must be done with the car on a flat, level surface* this was then locked up. All threads have a small amount of loctite 242 stick (low strength locking compound) just to be safe. The original links are 110mm centre to centre, and the Whiteline links are 115mm fully wound in, with around 25mm of adjustment. They have an anodised billet turnbuckle with lock nuts and are left and right hand threaded which facilitates on car adjustment. This allows the user to allow for sway bar variance,and unload the sway bar at rest. I believe the greater length will reposition the swaybar closer to it's original alignment on lowered cars anyway. So thats it; less than an hour fitted. I was fairly cynical going into this about the difference they would make with a Standard swaybar, but felt it was the best way to test definitively. Bloody Hell! At 60 km/h a sharp swerve in either direction ellicts instant response; you can feel the rear sway bar working faster than the front one, honestly feel like it's running a stiffer rear swaybar! There is obviously far less flexibility in these ball joints, as the vagueness just after turn in is completely gone, the car just dives in. I believe this will be even more pronounced with uprated swaybars. Once fully loaded, they behave as normal; completely silent, no harshness, just like stock. But it definitely feels as if there is less roll and that the rear is reacting more quickly than the front. I'm stunned at the difference these links made, for such a simple part, and I believe the adjustability may actually make life easier on the standard (under engineered) link top mounts, due to being able to reduce the angle of misalignment in lowered cars, and cars with adjustable bars. I'll be approaching Wayne very soon about a group buy, and he's assured me we'll have an extremely competitive price. I'm happy to answer any questions you may have, and obviously, stay tuned for more developments. Cheers, Dale.

So I recieved these in the mail from Wayne on Thursday, and fitted them Friday morning. They are a Whiteline 350Z Heavy Duty Swaybar Ball Link. They replace this little fella; The originals were still in ok condition; the boots were starting to perish a little, but still sealed. No free play, but not tight. So probably indicative of most examples fitted to local cars. The Ball joint is more than twice the size of the original and should be able to take a hell of a lot more load, whilst still remaining quiet & maintenance free, unlike a race style aircraft or rose jointed link. As you can see, they came with neat little nylon shields to further protect the ball joint from stones, dirt etc. I removed the rifling from the centres with a scalpel, and also cut them down to 10mm so they would fit neatly over the shaft hex, and not press against the ball joint dust shield. They came with nyloc nuts, which I elected not to use; preferring to stay with the shouldered nuts used on the original links. This decision was twofold; 1; Using the nylocs precludes the fitting of the dust shields, as you would need to put a spanner on the flats otherwise the shaft will turn as you try to do up the nyloc. 2; The originals were fine, and a little loctite will do the trick. Fitted to the car; Rolled the car up on some ramps, chocked front wheels, car in Park. Everything is accessible now. I elected to remove the top mounts with the links attached and fit the new ones on the bench as space is limited. My top mounts were in perfect condition. The shafts are a bit longer than the originals, but do not cause any clearance issues under the car. Once the mounts were bolted in and the sway bar was reattached, I locked up one side, ensuring the ball joints were at 90 deg angles as per the std links. I then located the other to the swaybar and adjusted the turnbuckle until the swaybar was not preloaded in either direction NOTE *this must be done with the car on a flat, level surface* this was the n locked up. All threads have a small amount of loctite 242 stick (low strength locking compound) just to be safe. The original links are 110mm centre to centre, and the Whiteline links are 115mm fully wound in, with around 25mm of adjustment. They have an anodised billet turnbuckle which alows the user to allow for sway bar variance,and unload the sway bar at rest. I believe the greater length will reposition the swaybar closer to it's original alignment on lowered cars anyway. So thats it; less than an hour fitted I was fairly cynical going into this about the difference they would make with a Standard swaybar, but felt it was the best way to test definitively. Bloody Hell! At 60 km/h a sharp swerve in either direction ellicts instant response; you can feel the rear sway bar working faster than the front one, honestly feel like it's running a stiffer rear swaybar! There is obviously far less flexibility in these ball joints, as the vagueness just after turn in is completely gone, the car just dives in. I believe this will be even more pronounced with uprated swaybars. Once fully loaded, they behave as normal; completely silent, no harshness, just like stock. But it definitely feels as if there is less roll and that the rear is reacting more quickly than the front. I'm stunned at the difference these links made, for such a simple part, and I believe the adjustability may actually make life easier on the standard (under engineered) link top mounts, due to being able to reduce the angle of misalignment in lowered cars. I'll be approaching Wayne very soon about a group buy, and he's assured me we'll have an extremely competitive price. I'm happy to answer any questions you may have, and obviously, stay tuned for more developments

So I recieved these in the mail from Wayne on Thursday, and fitted them Friday morning. They are a Whiteline 350Z Heavy Duty Swaybar Ball Link. They replace this little fella; The originals were still in ok condition; the boots were starting to perish a little, but still sealed. No free play, but not tight. So probably indicative of most examples fitted to local cars. The Ball joint is more than twice the size of the original and should be able to take a hell of a lot more load, whilst still remaining quiet & maintenance free, unlike a race style aircraft or rose jointed link. As you can see, they came with neat little nylon shields to further protect the ball joint from stones, dirt etc. I removed the rifling from the centres with a scalpel, and also cut them down to 10mm so they would fit neatly over the shaft hex, and not press against the ball joint dust shield. They came with nyloc nuts, which I elected not to use; preferring to stay with the shouldered nuts used on the original links. This decision was twofold; 1; Using the nylocs precludes the fitting of the dust shields, as you would need to put a spanner on the flats otherwise the shaft will turn as you try to do up the nyloc. 2; The originals were fine, and a little loctite will do the trick. Fitted to the car; Rolled the car up on some ramps, chocked front wheels, car in Park. Everything is accessible now. I elected to remove the top mounts with the links attached and fit the new ones on the bench as space is limited. My top mounts were in perfect condition. The shafts are a bit longer than the originals, but do not cause any clearance issues under the car. Once the mounts were bolted in and the sway bar was reattached, I locked up one side, ensuring the ball joints were at 90 deg angles as per the std links. I then located the other to the swaybar and adjusted the turnbuckle until the swaybar was not preloaded in either direction NOTE *this must be done with the car on a flat, level surface* this was the n locked up. All threads have a small amount of loctite 242 stick (low strength locking compound) just to be safe. The original links are 110mm centre to centre, and the Whiteline links are 115mm fully wound in, with around 25mm of adjustment. They have an anodised billet turnbuckle which alows the user to allow for sway bar variance,and unload the sway bar at rest. I believe the greater length will reposition the swaybar closer to it's original alignment on lowered cars anyway. So thats it; less than an hour fitted I was fairly cynical going into this about the difference they would make with a Standard swaybar, but felt it was the best way to test definitively. Bloody Hell! At 60 km/h a sharp swerve in either direction ellicts instant response; you can feel the rear sway bar working faster than the front one, honestly feel like it's running a stiffer rear swaybar! There is obviously far less flexibility in these ball joints, as the vagueness just after turn in is completely gone, the car just dives in. I believe this will be even more pronounced with uprated swaybars. Once fully loaded, they behave as normal; completely silent, no harshness, just like stock. But it definitely feels as if there is less roll and that the rear is reacting more quickly than the front. I'm stunned at the difference these links made, for such a simple part, and I believe the adjustability may actually make life easier on the standard (under engineered) link top mounts, due to being able to reduce the angle of misalignment in lowered cars. I'll be approaching Wayne very soon about a group buy, and he's assured me we'll have an extremely competitive price. I'm happy to answer any questions you may have, and obviously, stay tuned for more developments

Recipe for slow cooked duck? Go, on topic discussion!

This argument has been done to death. Back to back, same day, plenum skin temp measured with a non contact temp gun (accurate to 800deg) 31deg reduction. Economy; only .1-.2 km/l, possibly a bit more. Driveability; VERY subjective, because it's a "seat of the pants thing". But; Yes, farking HEAPS! Better response, stacks more torque.

At least Ducklings don't have a hidden agenda. Just food & warmth.

I'd be willing to bet it isn't 4WD...

Couldn't agree more. I was under the impression that the bB was around the same size as a Cube, or slightly smaller. Whereas the Ruckus is built on the Camry chassis and it's bloody huge! The proportions don't work for me at all. *Edit* Just saw Chris's post, not Camry chassis; Doh!

So what are the rules going to be? A rego & a simple description of vehicular f**kwittage?