Daleo

I'm curious about the AFM voltage also. Mine has peaked at 5.00v on the Informeter, so I wouldn't expect you'd go much higher than that. No one wants to know about your 3rd gear pull Alex.

Good luck mate; hope all goes well!

Hi Nate, I think I have a spare one; let me check tomorrow and I'll PM. Should be fine; if you haven't already done the exhaust, you'll be able to work around the brace. Scotty has a 3.5" system, with a 2" wastegate pipe running through there, with a brace fitted; so you shouldn't have any great issues.

Duncan; that's the best laugh I've had all week! And I spent most of this afternoon reading "Texts from Dog".

Glad you're happy Matt.

Try posting in the Stagea section; there's a few wrecks getting around now.

I dunno, someday...

Considering most of the steering & braking forces are channeled through the compression rod (piano); which is right next to where the brace mounts, its effect is quite pronounced. Double A arm front ends don't load the strut towers in the same way that Macpherson strut arrangements do. Macpherson struts tend to push the strut towers toward each other as they compress; which effect camber & caster (and therefore contact patch). Double A arms tend to direct the forces more efficiently upward; rather than inward, and the arms and shocks actually work better; so a strut brace has a lesser effect. Not NO effect, just LESS effect. When you see how little support our chassis rails have (the crossmember is about a foot further forward); and how much force is directed diagonally back into them, you start to understand why such a simple brace makes such a big difference. I know it might sound like I'm just pushing my barrow; but it does work, and it works well. If I was able to fit the bar to your car, and get you to drive a course; then take it off (but not tell you), get you to drive the same course again, you'd know instantly that it was gone.

Lolz guise; if I'd realised the demand for pansy pink; I'd have doubled the price & brought out a limited edition... Update; Braces and mounting hardware are bubble wrapped, in cardboard tubes and labelled for shipping. Tracking documents all filled in to make life easy for the Post Office chicks, and if possible; they will be going to the Post Shop tomorrow, as I think they still do Saturday morning Parcel drop off. If not; they will be going in early next week. I'll PM individually with a tracking number once they are on their way. Thanks again for your patience and support with the group buy; won't be long until you're unveiling my shiny my black rod. Enjoy lads.

I agree Scotty, if they can charge you for it; they can deliver it. They probabaly weasel out by saying that the flexible part is stainless, so, Technically, you are getting what you paid for. f**kers.

Not a damn thing wrong with your welding mate! Rather than a wire wheel; have you tried using Scotchbrite pads or a Scotchbrite wheel for cleanup? Green Scotchbrite is a little too abrasive; but the red/brown ones are great; cleans the weld area; but doesn't mess with surface of the pipe. Also, using steel wire wheels embeds ferrous metal particles in the stainless; which eventually oxidise, and make the area you've welded look a bit shitty. Brass wire wheels don't do this. TIg welding on panels isn't the greatest anyway; as the localised heat (while being great for minimising distortion) causes the welds to be much harder than the surrounding material this is compounded by quenching to cool the panel. One of the places a MIG is great. With mild steel flex joints; are you stripping the gal completely off the weld area first? The gal coating has a melting temp about 300 deg higher than mild steel, and basically ends up overheating the weld area before the gal burns off.

Mate; when things quiet down a bit for me, I'll sort it out for you. Talk to you soon mate.

Lol! I didn't really do a pink one, yours is glossy, badass black; just like the rest. Unwrapping it though...

No worries at all mate; good on you!

Of course Rudi; nothing sinister. Did you get anywhere with your cruise yet mate?

Only if you want it to be. Come on out and see how you go!

Read this; http://www.wsid.com.au/?m=events&a=event_page&id=51 And this; http://www.wsid.com.au/uploads/files/2012_ANDRA_Helmet_Standards_Information.pdf Tells you everything you need to know.

R32 GTR bar will not fit an R33 GTSt. But an R33, R34 (GTSt and GTR), S14, S15 and Manual Stagea bar will fit your R33 however.

I'll talk to him tonight; but it was either -1/0, or -1/+1. You can get it up on the throttle (no clutch) in 2nd. He's planning to go back to standard; which I believe is 16/42, does that sound right? His tank range ended up around 230km, down from around 270km. The 170rwhp came from Yoshi carbon cans, with cat delete midpipe, BMC filter, and a Power Commander. Using a Speedohealer to correct the speedo error. The tuner (S&R Pro in Penrith) commented that it was a particularly strong one considering the amount of mods; but the tune they've done isn't shy about using fuel.

Are you sure it wasn't a Sierra Stage 1?

I haven't looked at it at all yet; maybe I should get on it...

That's a bit harsh; looks miles better than any edging I've seen.

TIG welding uses a tungsten electrode to pass current to the metal from the parent metal. The resulting arc is sheilded by an inert gas (usually pure argon, or argon/helium mix depending on what is being welded).This localised current transfer melts the parent material withing the oxygen depleted shielded area (prevents oxidation) and you use the arc to melt a filler wire of the same composition as the parent material. You then dip the filler into the molten "puddle". As you move the torch; the deposited material solidifies and a new weld pool opens under the arc; which you deposit more filler material into, and so on. This is the familiar "fish scale" appearance that a TIG weld produces. When welding pipework; you can fill the pipe with Argon; which displaces the air inside "purging" the oxygen from the area, ensuring no oxidisation. The trick is in keeping the weld area and the molten tip of the filler wire shielded, depositing the right amount of filler at the right time, and moving the arc at the right speed. Mig welding basically sees a similar gas shielded arc; but the filler wire is fed down the hand piece at a constant speed. The filler wire is also the vehicle for the current transfer. So as the current melts the filler wire; the heat generated also creates a molten puddle in the parent metal, which the molten filler wire is deposited in. You can vary the speed of the wire feed depending on the amount of current; the thickness of the material, and the desired penetration. Once the feed & current are set you just move the torch smoothly down the joint depositing an even amount of filler. Mig welding is ideal for fast fabrication and is generally easier for inexperienced users. It has a place and is very effective when applied correctly. But it's generally not very pretty. TIG welding is much more specialised; much more accurate on thin materials, is much more difficult to master, and it's even more difficult to produce the beautiful "fish scale" welds that people like to see. As the material heat soaks; all of the above variables change, and you must accommodate them all. If a workshop says "We don't do TIG"; it's not because they don't want to, it's because they can't.

More like raisins... Thanks mate, the coating definitely finishes it off I reckon. Compared to pros would be minimum? Not sure what you mean. Not really any great difference; but I don't hide my welds. Due to the fact that the pipe was purged, the weld bead penetrates the pipe fully; which is where the strength is. I'm still not happy with the weld finish; a small amount of oxidation, and slightly inconsistent temp. I'll only be using my TIG in future.