Daleo

You must be looking at the wrong tits. I like 'em perky & firm.

Good job champ; looking forward to seeing the finished article.

You might have siezed/bent caliper pins; or a sicking piston in a caliper. Caliper pins can cause all sorts of odd brake issues.

I'm just about to do my 2nd oil change with it; spot on.

I'm running the 5w40 Syn X 6000; it's perfect in ours.

Noice! Check your boot for stowaways...

Oh really?

Cheers Adam, looking forward to seeing some tough rims on yours! Enjoy the bars mate.

They will work fine.

Looking good Scotty! Your car is like a negative of mine; black v's white, slow v's fast...

They clear the knuckle fine; it the dust shield that is the issue. I cut the dust shield away almost completely; if you rotate the wheel with everything fitted you'll get a witness mark on the dust shield. Cut a couple of mm inside the mark. Either that or measure the id of the back of the rotor, and transfer that dimension onto the dust shield. Cut accordingly.

Go get a 20lt drum of Syn X 6000 for the GTR; it's $150! I've been using the Syn x 3000 for the last few changes in the daily (I run it to 10 000kms), and am up to nearly 4000km on my first Syn X 6000 fill in my Stagea. Syn X 6000 replaced Sougi S6000 in the Stagea when I fitted my new turbo; I can't tell the two apart. Even the slight difference in viscosity hasn't revealed anything unusual, although the VQ uses a 7.5w30 from the factory, so at 5w40; it's probably more suitable than a 10w40 grade. No tensioner rattle at cold start up, same as Sougi, whereas Motul Turbolight would start getting a tiny rattle around the 4000km mark; obviously starting to break down a little. It's very smooth, revs freely, and the level hasn't dropped at all; and VQ's are known for using a little oil. I'm not an oil expert like some on here; but based on it's performance so far, I know I'll be buying another 20lt of Syn X 6000.

Man, that sucks! Thank you mate, for all you've done to keep all this info alive for everyone.

I know, right? Bishes be crazy...

You definitely came up trumps in the picture stakes Brian, she's a good looker.

Ok, a little tip for beginners; ALWAYS degrease your engine bay before you take the car for a pink slip. Mechanics hate oil leaks. You say they want to find something wrong; maybe you need to make a tiny effort to make it a bit harder to find something wrong. I always make sure my car is nice & clean and well presented; it shows you give a stuff, and this can go a long way towards the mechanic not giving you the "fine tooth comb" treatment. If you have a dirty car with visible oil leaks that you haven't bothered to sort; what else haven't you bothered about? That is what the mechanic thinks. If you get pulled over and the police see you have an easily visible long term oil leak, yet you have a fresh pink slip; the police will report the mechanic to the RMS. This could result in him getting a warning or even losing the ability to do inspections completely. Why would he risk losing an integral part of his ability to make money, because you're too lazy to spend 10 mins with a $2 can of degreaser and a garden hose? Up until a couple of years ago, I had a modified 25 year old car with over 500,000kms on it. No oil leaks and it passed a pink slip inspection every year; simply because I maintained it. What's your excuse?

If the tyres scrub the guards when turning; they're probably right to refuse you a pink slip. Because, y'know; it's like illegal. And dangerous,

How good is the song!

I don't believe the issue I had at the drags was an overheat condition. Car had been sitting stationary, turned off for 45mins each time at the track; not a chance it was overheated. Also; my manual shift was unaffected. Also, the problem was reduced once I deliberately soaked some heat into the system; just not enough unfortunately. In any case, I run a large external cooler; and the car had only driven a kilometre or so. Comparing your Stagea's fuel economy to that of a Turbo Diesel Merc is not even close to a fair comparison.

They do go together quite nicely; if anything I think a 600mm x 300mm core is a bit too big, probably about 600mm x 220mm would be spot on. The other thing is; they can be had for as little as $580 now (free delivery) and the core is excellent. How much cheaper would your kits be?

It's interesting that you mention the low boost thing; as I saw this while at the drags this week. Normally I can stall the car against the brake, and the turbo will spool up to 15psi at around 3200rpm. It pushes hard against the brakes, churns the rear tyres, then takes off like a cut cat. At the drags; the car would struggle to get to 2500rpm, and boost gauge was still in vacuum (it normally has around 5-7psi boost at that point). Once I'd done my run; I pulled over on the return road and was able to stall the car up as I can on the street. As the engine was fully up to temp, I believe it is some kind of gearbox protection when cold; and it either retards the ignition timing or valve timing (or both) to limit boost. Once I was off the brake it would allow full boost. Throughout this I had full opening of the throttle. It also does another thing, if I give it too much of a hard time when cold; it will limit boost to 7psi (regardless of RPM or throttle application) until I pull over, switch off the ignition & restart the car. Then it will give full boost. I'm assuming this is an extension of the gearbox protection, as the engine will be at operating temp, but the car may not have been driven very far, thus a cold gearbox. Is there a gearbox temp sender that could be giving erroneous feedback to the ECU, and limiting boost, retarding ignition timing and/or valve timing and giving you woeful fuel economy & performance?

Glad you like it mate; enjoy.

+1 for Craig; he loves them! The trip from Singleton wouldn't be too terrible; just a bit slow.

Bahahaha! Lol @ piano! I'm glad I wrapped your brace up properly now. Smartarse.

It sounds like there's basically no weight transfer at all in your set up. If your springs & shocks are too stiff; you'll get no warning when it's about to break away. No body roll is not necessarily a recipe for good handling; there has to be some compliance; otherwise the car won't absorb any bumps, it just bounces over them. No wheel on the ground; no traction from that wheel. Doesn't matter how wide your tyres are then. Do the coilovers have adjustable damping? What are the spring rates?