Daleo

Boost bends butterfly shaft?

I'm using Gulf Western Syn-X 6000 in my NM35 Stagea; I reckon is very similar to the Sougi S6000 that I was using previously. $150 for a 20lt drum; what more can you ask for? Basically getting the 4th change for nothing.

As mad082 has said; It could be the starter, often clutch dust etc, makes the starter shaft sticky, and causes the pinion to stick in the thrown out position, and if it stays engaged with the ring gear, you'll get a hell of a racket. Flushing the starter shaft with contact cleaner will remove the stickiness, and no more screech. Opinions differ on whether a small amount of lube on the pinion shaft improves or exacerbates the issue in the long term. Also; just "tightening"the belts is not always enough. The tapered section of the belt lands use a "wedging" action in the pulley, even if the belt is not visibly cracked; the belt can wear to the point that the valleys of the belt can rest against the peaks of the pulley. You then lose the wedging action, and this will cause the belt to slip.

Nah, I reckon they make a noticeable difference too.

As far as I'm concerned; if brakes don't dust up, you can't really expect anything to special out of them. They are a bit dusty, nowhere near as dusty as TRW/Lucas pads, but if you had white wheels; well, you wouldn't anymore... Having said that; it just washes off with soapy water. In any case, with slotted rotors, you have to expect some dust. That's why my wheels are painted Toyota Tungsten, and not white.

I thought Iain was on holidays, give him some time.

Hey mate, welcome to the forum, congrats on the purchase! I'm out your way; used to be Emu Plains, now Faulco. What kind of suspension work are you looking to do? I might be able to help you, feel free to shoot me a PM. Cheers, Dale.

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Shoot your car eh? Amidoinitrite?

If I want less people in the car; I just let fluffy off the chain.

How is it that the Compliance hasn't been done? Why isn't ACT road registry in contact with the Complier with regard to their failure to ensure the vehicle is roadworthy? You pay for this; return it to them and request that they comply with the law and do the job.

Remsas kick arse! Mine are fully bedded in now; really easy to modulate, stops freakin' hard, no squealing either. Get some.

That's 'cos the powerz aren't actually hiding in there... You need to bolt them on.

Awesome stuff Terry! And another big thanks to Matt for the brilliant shots in the rain...

Lol! Nipple, ballcock, flange; it's all there... Yeah, same actuator; just shimmed it out to get a little more preload. Not the best solution, but it'll do until I can get a Scotty special. I know it's not creeping until 7 psi, but I'm sure there's a gain in response to be had there. I don't have an external boost gauge, so I don't know exactly what I'm dealing with ATM. Lol, yeah; had that coming.... If only. Leon, yes; it is the block to turbo oil feed line. I'll PM you tonight; unless anyone else is particularly interested in detail. Thanks for the birthday wishes; he was pretty stoked to see the car back on the road too. I drove it again last night after correcting my metered boost leak. Lets just say it a little different... Last night's ambient temp was only 5deg, so that may skew my results a little; but here it is. I now have 5-7psi at around 2400-2500rpm, all in (lets call it 14-15 psi) at 2800-2900rpm. Stalled against the brakes it will slowly build to 2500rpm in approx 2-3 sec, then race to 3200rpm as full boost arrives in around a second (ish); release brake, jumps to 3900-4000rpm, spins all four very briefly and it simply f**ks the f**k off. I haven't even hand timed yet but there's no question that it is significantly quicker than before. It will trigger the 100% duty cycle alarm in the Informeter just before the 6500rpm shift point, and it starts all over again. It doesn't hit the AFM cut, which I'm extremely pleased about; even though it is possibly costing me some flow. I understand the principle of using a larger intake effectively as additonal plenum area, but what I have now is a pretty nice solution, and is almost completely undetectable to even a educated set of eyes. I will have to change the way I drive, (with regard to gear selection) but not very much in comparison to the extra performance. I can definitely see how the 3.55 ratio diffs would help here. Eastern Creek drags in 2 weeks anyone?

Car is finished. My phone with all the pics on it died last night, and I need to get hold of a card reader before I can recover them from my SD card. Ended up having a -3 line made up yesterday for the turbo, to simplify the install; which it did quite well. After spending about 30 mins clocking the housings in, the turbo went in without issue. This is probably one of the more important jobs, and having the just removed turbo as a reference makes life very easy. My suction pipe went straight in, but was slightly too close to the rocker cover where the indent for the blow off inlet is. I tweaked it a little, did the finish welding, and on it went. The welding process straightened it up perfectly, to the point that even the mounting bolt on the resonance chamber on the rubber intake dropped perfectly in to position. Had some issues with the welder, and we were running a little lean on argon, so my external welds ended up a little oxidised. Purged inner surface ended up perfect, so I wasn't too worried. Blasted, and powdercoated black; ugleh welding hidden forever! Left the car last night with the finished turbo installed, actuator on (modded for a bit more preload), dump pipe, and O2 on, all heat shield (some modified) on, suction pipe on, all water, & oil lines plumbed (banjo opened up to 4mm), and gearbox mount bolted in for the last time. My mate bet me $50 that I would undo the bolts again today, but that was the last time they moved. This morning after a bit of 4 y/o birthday action, I refitted tailshaft, ceramic coated midpipe, and fujitsubo back on. Rest of intake, new belts, new top rad hose, rad fan, shroud, and filled with coolant. Used my super high tech cooling system bleeding kit, and about 40 mins later after getting as much air out as possible, and searching everywhere for potential leaks (NONE), I took it out for a spin. First thoughts; much quieter than the old BB core, and some serious hiss as this one comes on boost. At first glance, it is making around 7psi at 2650-2750and all in at 3000rpm, so not as responsive as standard, but not terrible by any means. It will still stall against the brake, but it takes a bit more time, and it's just high enough that it won't come on boost at the 80-90km/h mark in 4th gear like it used to. After driving it home the 30ish kays to my place, did another leak check (still none) in the time honoured tradition; it occurred to me that I hadn't tightened the hot side cast pipe to rubber joiner clamp up. Drop front of undertray, push hose all the way on and tighten clamp. I wonder if that will make a difference? Stay tuned.

Will do; lets see if it fits first... Yay! Random windscreen headbutts eh? I love surprises! Downhill or uphill? I'm hoping a little bit of bad might lead to some good. Might need to wait for my wallet to recover.

Yep, sure is. Getting your 3" version through must be a good job. I'm running it through the path taken by the original, and it's only about 6mm wider at the critical point than the OEM one. I was able to use standard 316L mandrel bends, and I've got a pretty straight shot at the compressor wheel. The inlet on the compressor cover is 2 1/2", so it shouldn't be restrictive. I've also hooded the Blow Off inlet merge into the suction pipe to hopefully avoid any reversion issues. The piece I'm looking forward to changing is the section before that, but I don't have any more material (or time to be honest) atm.

Yep, they fit in an 800mm cardboard tube.

2 1/2" Suction pipe tacked together for a trial fit tomorrow, prior to purge welding. Now we get to see how accurate my fab is.

It will definitely fit a PNM35; I made one for Alex's (PN Mad) HKS fed beast in the last run. The only issue will be delivery cost; I can get a shipping quote, and them we can go from there. Shoot me a PM to remind me, and I'll get back to you later in the week. Cheers, Dale.

Also pressed in some new Inner Lower control arm bushes the other day; mine weren't damaged, but the new ones look to be much stiffer. This should help remove some deflection in the LCA, and still deliver good ride quality. Also did an all over suspension bolt check; one of my rear links needed nipping up at the Swaybar. If you have a chance, and have been doing any work on your suspension in the last month; get under and check; not just visually, with a spanner.

Dammit! No excuses now... I can has Daelim too? So f##king power!!!!!

I use Rain-X on my windows, and they do a washer additive that I also use. It doesn't leave any visible residue or spotting on my paint. It seems to stretch out the time between reapplication of Rain-X, especially in the wiper track; which always wears off first. Definitely agree with new wiper blades; also helps with reducing wiper track scratching, as the blades get older with more rubbish embedded in them.

Good work, happy to help out. Cheers, Dale.