Daleo

This discussion is really only relevant to the M35; your situation will likely be different. Look for information regarding turbo life on R33/R34's to gauge the lifespan of your C34 turbo.

The rocker cover bolts are only a shouldered M5 bolt, nothing more than 6-8 Ft/Lb. So nipped up with a 1/4" ratchet a bit more than hand tight will do. You only want to bottom it out against the shoulder. As for the Plenum bolts; I reckon 20-22 Ft/Lb; no more. wipe a little grease/antisieze on the threads, and the underside of the head/washer, so they go in nice & smooth. I do all that sort of stuff by feel, but those numbers will translate onto a torque wrench. As Scotty said; not particularly critical , but some people like "Tight is right"; all this does is stretch bolts, damage threads and cost you time if it goes wrong.

Come on you two! Lol, I've seen the size of Cam's hands in that taillight globe vid on Youtube; I wouldn't go there...

They do fit the V35 coupe. Let me check tonight to see if I have enough material to make you one, & I'll PM you. To everyone who is waiting; apologies for the delay. With my car out of action presently, it's making it very difficult to move materials around; so I'm running a little behind. Your patience is appreciated, it won't be too much longer. Feel free to PM me if you have any concerns. Cheers, Dale.

Nice style there krzysztof! Why Stagea? Because RACECAR!

If I hadn't been able to get that stupid heatshield bolt; the engine was coming out of mine. There's no point wasting time if there's a quicker way. No question I'd do it differently (and much more quickly) if I was to do it again. It's all part of the learning process; and you've definitely got it down to a fine art now Scotty.

Got access to a hoist? How mechanically inclined are you? I believe most mechanics want around $2000-$2500 ; the worst quote I've heard is around $5000. Then you need a turbo on top of that. Talk to Jetwreck.

Your link doesn't work. Your situation sounds exactly like what happened to me last week. It won't be an intercooler pipe; Turbo is dead, you'll have a bunch of blade tips in the exhaust. As Ross said; if you continue to drive it; you may end up with Aluminium filings all through your inlet tract & intercooler. I would keep any driving to a minimum; think driving to the workshop for removal & replacement. Any turbo you decide to have built, will be around a week turnaround, do you have a spare to have built? Get in contact with Craig (Jetwreck); he knows. Mine won't be going by the weekend, coatings are still being done, but I'm hoping for something close to standard; but with a bit of potential.

And what else would you be doing with your time?

It'll be interesting to see if the new converter with (more/better?) clutches can take the punishment. Sounds like you've got some fun ahead.

The clearance is reasonably tight; I think it's just the pic, there's a couple of funny reflections & shadows. The coating will close the clearance down slightly too. I'm hoping so; we'll see in a few days. Trust me; if the Snap On truck hadn't been in the corner, we'd have been doing the same. I already had one long spanner made up. Paul, I took some measurements today, but I left everything at the workshop.

A couple of pics of the exhaust side of the new highflow compared to the OEM core.

I can get some numbers for you tomorrow; they're about $55 each though. I'm planning to marry mine. I didn't take a pic of the heatshield, but I'll get one tomorrow.

Quoted for truth. "Own a piece of motor racing history; live on Brock Drive" Thanks for contributing to the destruction of a perfectly good racetrack. If I ever have the misfortune of meeting anyone who proudly admits to living there; I'm gonna punch them in the throat.

Update; Turbo is out now. Truly there has never been a better example of the right tools for the job than this job. After wasting hours yesterday with the heatshield bolts; we bought two Snap On spanners and a 3/8 drive 10mm single hex socket. What couldn't be achieved in several hours; removing the heatshield was completed in around 20 minutes. This cleared the way to finally free the turbo from its home. I've also modified the offending heatshield so that the remaining section can be refitted; all the bolts can now be accessed, and it can be completely removed in about 2 mins. In other news, the exhaust housing, dump and mid pipe have now been blasted, baked, blasted again, and coated in the thermal basecoat. It has now been baked out and is cooling. The external thermal coating will be going on tomorrow, with the internal coating for the exhaust housing and dump to follow. The coating goes on a greeny colour as seen on the Dump & Mid pipe; then dries almost white, as seen on the exhaust housing. Once baked; they are almost completely white.

They're going to get your Baby Grand handling like a demon!

Duncan, my mate is in Penrith also; but it's not Chris. I've seen the Powdercoating that Chris does & his work is amazing, my mate is only just getting in to the decorative coatings, and there's a few ceramics (the polished finish ones) he does that Chris can't do. You're dead right though; at the limit, every little bit makes a difference, and there al all kinds of coatings, heat shedding, heat retention, heat reflecting, anti scuff, lubricant holding, lubricant shedding; the list goes on and on.

Mine was done because I "aquired" about 30m of wrap from my employer when we were re-lagging boiler pipework. The gains seem to be there; retaining heat in exhaust gas is critical to keep exhaust flow high. If there are tangible gains in N/A applications, it stands to reason that we have more to gain. I'm doing it more for the insulative qualities, and it looks much nicer than fluffy fibreglass wrap. It also protects the pipework, which can't be a bad thing either. My mate also does a coating on intercoolers and radiator cores that improves efficiency by a claimed 20%, it just looks like a satin grey metallic finish. Several V8 Supercar teams tested and now use it on their radiators; they wouldn't waste their time if it didn't work.

Yeah, lightened for extra performance! Not. You wouldn't believe the racket it makes when I had to drive it. Coolant lines and oil drain; pretty easy, oil feed still in place ATM.

Started the Turbo removal today; fortunately I have access to a hoist, gearbox jack, and a bunch of workshop tools. Also handy to have Craig to phone and laugh at my misfortune; as he knows well the fun I'm having. Need to buy/make a couple of tools tomorrow, but so far it hasn't been too terrible; but I'm not going anywhere near the pace that Scotty & Craig can do. There's no point busting my arse, as the other work going on will delay reassembly anyway. The source of the incredible racket and snails pace performance; No aluminium filings in the turbo to cooler pipework, so that saves on cleaning. Headed out this afternoon to pick up the high flowed turbo, looks great; measurements and pics tomorrow. Also getting rid of the thermal wrapping, and going for some sexy ceramic coatings on my Dump and Mid pipe. It works fine, but it's going a bit fluffy on the underside; and hey, while it's all apart... Anyway, I've beadblasted both pipes, the dump pipe inside and out, as it's getting a heat reflective coating on the inside and an insulative coating on the outside. The exhaust housing of the turbo will be getting the same treatment as the dump, and this should net a 30% temperature reduction over bare metal. It should also keep spool times up due to the retained heat in the exhaust gas which keeps gas velocity high. Pics of the coated parts once they're done.

If they have access to a die grinder & a rotary burr; it wouldn't take much more than an hour. Why not ring them prior to rocking up, and ask?

Without the CV shaft bolted through the middle of the wheel bearing; the hub will pull out of wheel bearing. You could always pull apart a CV shaft & use the stub to hold the bearing together, or get an engineering shop to machine a stub using yours as a sample. It'll be pricey due to the spline though.

Ahh, gotcha, they're the AR-X rotors! I thought it was a GT-t rotor! Carry on, pay no attention to me. You should be able to get a set of RDA slotted for around $300; I realise you're in NZ but as an example. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SLOTTED-Nissan-Skyline-R34-GTT-Front-Disc-Brake-Rotors-NEW-PAIR-WARRANTY-/110916761159?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d3277647 And a set of Remsa Pads for under $100 from GSL Rallysport (forum sponsors) these things are pretty impressive for the price.

I also used the longer Stagea bolts when I fitted mine; I think the mounting points on the R34 must be a fair bit thinner. They do protrude through the caliper mounting tag, but are still 4 mm away from the rotor. Are you not using the rotors you have in the pic? They look to have a decent amount to meat left. You could always have them skimmed and slotted; would be cheaper than new rotors. A 15mm spacer on the AR-X rims will actually put them at a nice position in the arches.