Daleo

M12x1.25

Quoted from my original post, and the link above; Replaced the two bumper rubbers on my fuel filler flap P/N; 78837-AG000. The original ones were flat as a tack, and as a result thefuel flap never sat flush with the rear quarter; always a bit sunken. Just a small detail, but it's been shitting me for ages. You're welcome.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/348629-what-have-you-done-to-your-stagea-lately/page__view__findpost__p__5702639

He's they guy; a well shady character. Apparently he's moved on from Nagoya, so I wouldn't strike them off the list before going there.

Maybe the IS uses a thin flange on the hub; this might account for the fussiness regarding wheel nut tension. The Sierra is what Andy was using, not sure if he was using the S1 or S2 spec. Also Craig thinks Spoolin has the same. I guess we'll see. Also having the rear housing ceramic coated once I get it back. Lol, I'm pretty lucky being so close to a couple of turbo specialists; at least I can save a bit not having to freight it all over the place. Craig was also very helpful; listening to my mad ramblings over the last few days, thanks mate.

I bought my Stagea through Nagoya; was far from the nightmare people have made them out to be. I dealt with Alex, and he was absolutely fine, more than helpful; even several months later when I rang for some advice. Most of the bad Nagoya experiences seem to centre around a particular individual, whom I did meet, and took an instant and severe dislike to. I told Alex that I wasn't interested in dealing with said individual and he was fine with it. Nearly four years and 60,00km down the track, I've had to replace a window regulator, and my turbo is in the throes of the standard 100,000km failure; so no hidden issues there.

The pads aren't a big issue really; I'm not actually "bedding" these pads (heat cycling to transfer pad material on to the rotors) which is what makes the brakes work properly. The friction of the pads pressing against the rotor is not what makes brakes work; it's the grabbing and breaking of bonds between the pad material deposited on the rotor surface and the pad itself. You are right about the incompatibility of differing pad materials; but 30 km of driving, with maybe 4 light brake applications isn't going to be an issue. You really need a proper heat cycle bed in, and a few hundred kays of driving. I've never really heard about wheel nut torque being particularly critical; but a wild variation might be an issue. I've never used anything but a wheel brace or a breaker bar & socket. The one that does fool the younger players, is the effect a dud wheel bearing can have; brakes will develop a shudder over 5000km and rotors need machining; only to develop a shudder after another 5000km. The other is the fact that discs rarely actually warp; the shudder you feel is almost never a disc with axial runout; it is almost always an uneven build up of pad material on the rotor, or a hard spot on the rotor that has a different coefficient of friction to the rest of the rotor. This can also manifest in severe chatter when attempting to machine the rotor. I've ended up going with the tried and true "Sierra Stage 2" which ironically; is almost identical in wheel size to a 2871. I spent a good piece of time today speaking to the turbo builder, and looking at a number of different impellers and turbines to demonstrate his viewpoint. I was pretty sold, as he was the only one that would actually justify his selection; rather than just "This is what we use." The main reason I didn't end up going with the 2860 was the fact that he doesn't believe there is enough material in the housings to guarantee that it can be machined accurately to take the 28 series core. This is why the common choice is the 30 series Garrett core; even though for most people, it's a bit big for good response. At the end of the day I'm satisfied it will do what I want, and I've essentially made it so I'll need to do a bit of tuning to get the best out of it; which is what my tinkering mind wanted to do anyway. That, and I will now be able to make lag based excuses about why my car can't win a drag race. TL;DR? I know SFA about brakes, and even less about turbos...

Sent out back up turbo for rebuild today; should see it back early next week. Also, finally reassembled and fitted my R34 GTSt calipers and rotors! These were stripped and bead blasted, then coated in a 600deg ceramic coating; that is impervious to chemical and brake fluid attack, so they should be near on indestructible, and look great for ages. Rotors were basically brand new OEM Nissan, and since they're a nice high carbon content steel, I decided to use them, so these were also bead blasted, coated, then sent out for machining and slotting. Pics; For anyone thinking of using the 310mm R34 GTSt brake upgrade; you will need to cut away or remove the backing plates from the front hubs; as they foul the rotors. Not a big deal, but you'll need to be handy with a grinder to do a neat job. Also; I remove the double flare seat from the brake line thread, this means you don't need to butcher your banjo's to fit the OEM lines. You can just use a small ezy out, or a self tapper to yank it out. I had expected them to be a nightmare to bleed; given they were completely dry internally, but they were probably the easiest brake bleed I've ever done! Only took around 5 mins a side; and the pedal came up great. Still bedding the unknown original pads ATM; and I'll be using a fresh new set of Remsa's from GSL Rallysport by the end of the week, so I'm not sure what the power will be like, but they certainly seems decent so far.

PM sent.

Lol, stupid day job; cutting into my Stagea work... Got one for you mate; just let me get some paint on it.

Ok, welded four braces yesterday, mitring the rest of my tube today; so I should have most of them finished and in paint by the end of the week!

Yeah, I abandoned newspaper a while back, and now I use a microfibre glass cloth; which is pretty damn good.

This doesn't work as well as it used to, due to the fact that printers ink no longer contains carbon black. The Carbon Back in the newsprint is what actually does the job; rather than the paper itself.

Do you run your aircon very much when you drive in winter? Dehumidifying the interior using the aircon helps with windows fogging; as there will be minimal moisture to condense. Other than that; maybe water from a blocked aircon drain or a leaky heater core might be dripping back inside the cabin.

Pretty much; both air intake pipe and hot side pressure pipe are bolted to the housing, and have a very tight clearances on their pathway through the engine bay. Also, you'd likely end up having to go custom on your dump, depending on housing v's exhaust flange orientation. So there's a decent bit of fabrication to do just to get something different to fit. Scotty would probably be the best bet for some photographic evidence on what there is to deal with. For the power I'm after; it's not worth the arseache of refabricating all the pipework.

Beat me to it Leon; As you said, I was very generously allowed to borrow this unit by it's owner, so I can't speak for it's ongoing availability.

Lol, I had a mate CNC the ends for me; and he did a few extras... I've got 12 to make this week though.

Still haven't decided; tossing up a 2860RS or 2871 core. Exhaust side of both is identical, but the compressor exducer dimensions are 11mm different, so I'm not 100% sure.

Generally around $50 a corner.

plus equals; Awesome! Will be mitring and welding tomorrow; it's going to be a busy day!

Back up turbo arrived today; looks like it'll be on it's way again early next week!

Save your moneys and just make cool noises with your mouth. Brrrmm Brrrmmm, waaaah, waaaaahhh, skreeek, ZUTUTUTUTU! Awesome! Get a couple of mates in the car for even more awesomes!

That's probably a bit harsh; Risking is a guy running a business; BSA is a scammer who used a business to make himself look legit. The Nigerian Royal family doesn't pick up the tab when people pour their life savings into scammers pockets. It's a hard way to learn a lesson; but unfortunately you have to learn it.

Given the OEM one seems able to hold pretty decent boost; why not a replacement new OEM one? It's lasted 10 odd years; time for a birthday present? They are supposed to be the same as an R32 GTR BOV (I realise they use 2); yes?

So the gauge came off a factory JDM Silvia, but it's impossible to get? Why don't you just go to Nissan and buy the sender from them? If it's a factory fitment; they will sell it.