Hanaldo

Yeh. You need an oven, not a microwave

Yeh man, it's easy. Take off the 5 spring clips on the housing, and undo the two little screws on the park-light side. Remove all the plastic bits that you can, tuck all the wiring inside the housing, and pre-heat oven to 100 degrees, then headlight in for 8 minutes or so. Keep an eye on it in the oven and nothing will go wrong. Then use a screw driver to pry the lens away from the housing. If you need to pull too hard then put it back in the oven for another couple of minutes. Just do it slowly and you'll be sweet. To put it back together, just reverse the process

Wait, I don't follow. What's wrong? What don't you want to open?

That ones easy, braided lines an AN fittings ebreh taiiiiiim! Makes removing and installing the turbo such a breeze. Anyway, just finished up in the boot. Gates Submersible fuel hose in the tank; stuff aint cheap! $28 for 30cm. Also decided to replace the nuts on my bulkhead terminals with nyloc nuts, ethanol safe and means the nuts won't work themselves loose and cause a bad connection to the pump. All in all, not too upset I had to get back into the tank, though if I keep that up then I'm gonna have to figure out another way of loosening the collar, damn thing is copping a beating! Also, because sitting in the boot is just so damn comfortable, I decided to rewire all my stereo gear while I was in there as well. Don't have anything serious as I don't spend much time listening to music in the car, but the previous owner had a setup for two amps and a sub, plus all the speaker wiring. I've just got the one amp powering the speakers now, but the wiring was all still in there. It was a 'professional' install done by some audio shop, but my god it was atrocious. Seriously, why do workshops refuse to cut wire to length? They all leave 10m of wiring just bundled up inside the car. So I ran everything so it is no longer visible, and then cut it to length. I used to be ashamed of all my wiring, but I could proudly show it off now

If it clicks then the relay is working. Which means the problem is between the relay and the pump. If it doesn't click, then the relay isn't working. So either you've wired it up wrong (which I don't believe you have) or you have a busted relay. I have a suspicion about what might be up though. Are you doing this rewire because you have just installed a new pump?

Ah dude. Happens all the time. Some of my best work is done between the hours of 1-5am

All automotive relays have the same numbers, they are defined by the DIN standard. There should be an amperage rating stamped on it somewhere. Something like NO = 70a / NC = 60a? Don't try to start the car. Just turn the key to the ON position. The relay click is very audible, you should easily be able to hear it.

Haha ok. What relay are you using? Can you hear it clicking when you switch the key on?

Well there's the issue. Where's your positive wire from the battery to pin 30? Relays have two circuits, a low current circuit and a high current circuit. The low current circuit is your ecu wires, they give power to the relay coil which completes the high current circuit. You've done this part correctly. But you don't have a high current circuit. You need to wire a 8ga cable with an inline fuse from the positive terminal of the battery to pin 30 of the relay. This is where your fuel pump will get its power from.

Have you earthed the relay? You should have the two smaller posts Yeh? One of which is connected to the black/yellow positive wire? The other one needs to be earthed. So you cut and tape the green/white (or black/red in some cases) wire from the ecu, and earth pin 86 of the relay.

Well, have had to get back into the tank for the 4th time this week. Randomly woke up at 3am with the thought that I had forgotten to plug the fuel level sender back into the lid. Got back into the tank this morning to check, and sure enough the plug was sitting down in the tank! Lucky I did though, because while I was in there I had the sudden thought that I never asked if the fuel hose I bought was submersible. Turns out it wasn't, so I have spent all morning chasing up some submersible fuel hose that is compatible with ethanol. Eventually found some Gates stuff at Repco, so I'll go pick that up just now. This replacing the moulded fittings business is trickier than it seems! Getting quite good at getting into the tank and getting the fuel pump in and out though

Yes, no doubt. So I'd say you will be fine removing it

Depends how much money you spend

White

Don't need to take the turbo off? If the cooler piping is off then it's even easier. Just tap a hole into the hot side cooler piping, easy

Looks like the clear coat coming off to me

Bah, GTR is business and pleasure!

Means the low load circuit would have a built in resistor to protect the ECU from any surges. I don't see the advantage of this relay to your standard 60a horn relay though? 60a is thoroughly overkill, and I use a 30a inline fuse. So 80a is unnecessary. The posts sound like they are a similar size too.

Would probably be ok for the tune. You should really check for leaks before it goes on the dyno anyway, but hopefully it's ok. But if Trent can't do it, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just do it at some point.

Yeh if you even have the slightest consideration of selling it, don't spend any money on it.

Run the wastegate as close to the turbo outlet as you can. Stao really should put a nipple on the turbo. But you want the wastegate plumbed into a source as close to the turbo as possible, because of you get a leak somewhere and the boost pressure is lower at the plenum then you could be working the ass off the turbo, superheating the intake charge. If that means getting a nipple put onto the hot side cooler piping then do that.

Yeh people complain about those seals a lot but I've never had any issues. I'm not setting up anything with fuel temperature. Just using it as an indicator for how the pump set up is running. If it does get too hot then I'll look into a fuel cooler.

Interesting. Haven't seen that before. Possibly a dampener as you said, most likely for noise reduction. In any case, when my car was NA it didn't have that. So I'd say no consequences in terms of how the car runs.

Thanks for that mate, gives me a bit of confidence. I tested the E85 I have here using separation funnels and found it to be 88%. That is accurate to within 2%. The sensor reads 82%, but if that is a little low and the sep funnels are a little high then they would still overlap in the 5% error range that the sensor has. So that makes me pretty confident. I'm still just worried that the Zeitronix display and the ECU being spliced into the same digital signal wire might cause errors in the readings because of some interaction between the two. Good thought about the water getting in! I will double check. The bulkhead has a teflon washer on the inside and has an o-ring on the outside, so it should seal up well enough. But I will pull it off again and make sure that it is water tight, don't want to tempt fate!

Built in knock sensor, on-board MAP sensor, ignition outputs for each cylinder, etc. Not a lot of differences no, but I do think they make the ViPEC a bit better value than the Link. Especially when you consider that with the Link you need to pay for an IAT sensor as well, and if you want to run any decent boost then you will need to splash out on a MAP sensor which means you also need to buy the XS Loom... Presuming you want to ditch the AFM. Given the ViPEC comes with the IAT sensor and on-board MAP sensor, the initial outlay ends up pretty close. Just food for thought.