Hanaldo

Not if he buys the HG turbo. Stao quoted me $1040 delivered for the Adaptronic.

Unless he gets the Adaptronic and ditches the AFM

My advice is to get the ECU first. Also, if you are considering buying a HG turbo, Stao can give you a great deal on an Adaptronic plug in ECU. Something to think about given you have an R33, so the NIStune will take some messing around. The Adaptronic may represent better value for money. Perhaps look into it? Then, it depends which turbo you end up getting from HG as to what HP you can expect and whether you will need injectors. If you go a simple highflow, stock injectors mayyy be able to do the job, perhaps with a bit of help from an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. They will be very close to maxed in any case. However if you want something capable of say 250rwkw, then you're probably going to have to do injectors as well. I'd suggest talking to Stao about what you want.

Speaking from experience, the ATR43 G3 isn't really stealthy either. It's very obvious. Even when I had the smaller G2 and I was worried about getting pinged for it so tried my hardest to make it look stock, it still stood out. That's what made me decide to ditch the stealth idea and go all out. The only way you will ever get a truly stealthy turbo is if you highflow and make use of the stock housings, otherwise you should forget it. Otherwise if just being low mount is stealthy enough for you, the G3 will work

The parkers are separate, they are in fact a lot easier to do than the main headlights. You should be able to see a small grey plug towards the outside of the headlight assembly, I've attached a picture indicating the parker. Just twist it to the left and it should slide right out.

Agree with the above, stripping down and rebuilding calipers is very easy, they are quite simple. Actually quite fun to do as well, I enjoy it

Surely that's another reason to not go down the rebuild path though. I'll be interested to see how close to budget it comes in as well, I have never once managed to do anything to my car within budget. Even simple bolt on stuff quickly blows out of control. Best of luck OP.

Haha yehhhhh, unfortunately I don't think my car would make it that far, I couldn't even trailer it from point A to point B without breaking something Will get a 4" intake pipe made up some time in the future, but for now I need to recover funds. This ECU wasn't meant to happen for another 6 months at least, so I'm running on empty at the moment

The only issue with this though; are there IAT sensors that won't get destroyed by the methanol/water? I know my Haltech sensor says absolutely do NOT place after any WM injectors, Link say the same thing about theirs (though I suspect they are all the same sensor with different brand names anyway). If there is a sensor that can survive the mixture then I will get a kit installed and do the tests. I'm all for the advancement of science you see

Looks awesome ^

If you need internal gate, look at Hypergear turbos. The Kando's have only really come alive when externally gated, haven't seen a lot of good results from the internal models.

Forgot to update this. Decided on Friday to purchase this: Along with Haltech 3 bar MAP sensor and IAT sensor, so will be doing away with the AFM now too. Hoping against hope that this finally sorts out my issues and gets the car running, will find out maybe Wednesday/Thursday this week with any luck

Is the Autometer a wideband? If not, then it will never read accurately. If it is, then that's why the O2 sensor function won't work, they only work with the stock narrowband signal.

I got an AEM UEGO for $190 delivered. That said, the sensor lasted about 1000kms before it died *EDIT* Also came from the US.

I see, but still not far off. Thing is, what if the turbo isn't the issue? What happens if whatever replacement turbo you send him then doesn't make power? Doesn't look good.

30rwkw isn't far short, especially considering not many of your customers turbos equal what your test car makes. If you could figure out why it isn't holding boost then I think it would come a lot closer.

Well they aren't exactly cheap lol. Most people that run atmo bov's either don't know the problems they can cause, or they aren't reallyyyyyyyy that interested in performance and so wouldn't spend a lot of money on an ECU with capabilities like a Haltech. Just judging by appearance, most people I can see who ask about running atmo bov's on here tend to be all about the image of fast cars. They like the noises and the appearance, but don't want to spend the money to make it all work properly. Not saying everybody who runs an atmo bov is in that category. Just an observation.

What's your overall opinion on the Link, Jez? I ordered and paid for mine on Friday, fingers crossed it solves my problems.

I see, makes sense, I was wondering how well it would work.

Yeh it's fine, I'm not too fussed about it, only reason it's of any interest to me is I have a wideband and am always interested in learning more, so would be keen to play around with it to setup cruise cells on the road. Right now my car has been off the road for about 4 months, so I just want to focus on getting it running and driving it again, won't be playing around with it for awhile.

Your car must be tuned right on the edge then, surely. I mean the air flow meter is a heat element, it takes temperature into account when it calculates air density, so any heat soak you are getting from the pod shouldn't cause knock, it will just mean less power.

Didn't see this yesterday. Thanks a lot for the offer mate, I appreciate it. I ended up buying the Link ECU anyway though, decided I would be better off changing ECU now than putting more money into an ECU I want to get rid of anyway. Thanks again though

Don't take it too bad, in the end it is just an air filter, it's not going to make or break your setup. The difference between a cheap pod and an 'expensive' pod isn't the power they make, it's the quality of the filter. As I mentioned above, the things are just air filters. You're not paying x amount for y amount of power. I've seen a few 3A Racing and some other cheap brands literally disintegrate under boost, and when you pull the pod off you can find little pieces of filter element in the intake pipe. That said, I've seen the same thing happen to HKS pod filters, but they are a rubbish design anyway.

Hey all, This is a pretty big ask, so I'm not expecting a huge response, but I'm desperate now. I've had my car at Allstar for 3 weeks now, was supposed to be for just a simple tune but has turned into quite an effort. Andy from Hyperdrive is working on the car while Sean is off on leave. Basically the car is giving quite a few problems which Sean and Andy both believe to be a corrupt ECU, eg. revving itself to redline as soon as it starts without opening the throttle body at all, dropping cylinders randomly, etc. etc. Now the boys at Allstar have been checking basic things such as injectors going to correct plugs on the ECU, coils, etc. but nothing has had any effect yet. So we are now at a stage where there isn't really a lot we can do without testing another ECU. My back-up plan is to purchase a Link G4 ecu, but there's no point spending 2 grand on an ECU if it isn't going to fix the problem. So I really just need a NIStuned RB25DET Neo ECU for a manual that Andy could plug in, test it out, and then give it back to you. If it does turn out to be the ECU then I will buy the Link G4, so I'm not looking to purchase another stock ECU. I just really need one to borrow for maybe a few hours. Anyone? Thanks, Martin.

You've got it all wrong man... We are trying to keep them apart!