Hanaldo

There is no programming. It's as simple as getting a pinout diagram of the ECU and then tapping into those respective outputs. This. Listen to it. I have one and I dislike it immensely. Used to think it was cool and that everyone thought I was badass. My have even thought it served some remote purpose. But it's not, nobody does, and it doesn't. They are just annoying and they cause problems. If I could be bothered ripping it out then I would, but it's no longer working anyway so I just leave it there.

Umm unfortunately I don't because at the same time as putting them in, I thought it would be a good idea to skin my gauge holder with carbon fibre, not realizing that the plastic expands and contracts with heat while the carbon fibre doesn't, so now it looks hideous. Not something I want to show off by any means. If it helps though, they look like this: Or something like this while mounted, but obviously in the 34 gauge holder not an S15: The backlights are fully adjustable, I didn't like them illuminated as much as they are in that picture so I turned them down. I've also got this video of my boost gauge, which is the same gauge just in the smoked face series: Otherwise, my apologies for not being any help at all

Ummm. Yes. That's what happens.

Put in an order for a new oil pump when you get it installed...

What about this Haltech IAT sensor: http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=41&category_id=39&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1 And this Haltech GM 3 bar MAP sensor: http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=39&category_id=39&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1 Are they good options?

This is one of the sensors that I have been looking at getting, so I think I'll go with that. I can't for the life of me figure out how the Bosch sensors would fit in? It sorts looks like you just... Bolt it in? I have no idea. I tried googling, but Bosch's installation instructions are "Installation is to be such that the front part of the sensing element is directly exposed to the air flow." Well thanks for that Bosch What's my best option for the MAP sensor? The GM one as Justin is running?? The Link ones? Other options?

No problem man, glad someone else found that info useful And yeh, happy to help in any way I can, it should all be fairly straight forward.

Yeh that's what I thought too, but when I was checking over the features and specifications I couldn't find any mention of an internal map sensor. So I guess they aren't quite exactly the same as the VIPEC. The part about the IAT sensor is new to me though. I had seen the Bosche sensor but wasn't aware I couldn't use the threaded ones? How does the Bosche sensor install then?

Ok, so I've worked out that the Adaptronic plug in ECU for the GTT is not available yet, it's still a few weeks away from being released. I'm quite settled on the Link G4 anyway, I felt a bit iffy about going with the Adaptronic. However, I was about to purchase one and was doing my last checks of the fine print to make sure of what I need, and I'm a bit unsure of a few things. 1. Does the Link G4 plug in actually have an internal MAP sensor? I can't find any mention of it on their website, all their documents *recommend* purchasing a MAP sensor otherwise it can be run with the factory AFM. Am I correct in assuming that it does in fact have an internal 2.5 bar MAP sensor and I shouldn't need one an external one to run ~19psi? 2. The IAT sensor. Do I need the XS connector to run it? Their documentation on their website says I do, but I've read elsewhere that it can use the AFM input instead? Or is that only if I am retaining the AFM? What about thread size, they offer two thread sizes. Does it matter which one I get?

That is amazing... Both the car, and the photography. Looking great mate! Also... Spotted Had JustCar post those photo's on my Facebook news feed, first thing I thought was "Hey... That car looks familiar!"

I see, there you go, I was picturing it wrong. My mistake. Didn't mean to cause any offense with my comment mate.

No need for the sarcasm mate. I'm using a much larger turbo than you and my strut brace fit fine. You are also the first person I have seen complain of this problem, ergo you've done something differently to everyone else. Unless Stao has positioned the housings wrong. What elbow are you using from the compressor outlet, silicon? Can you upload a picture to show what exactly the problem is, maybe I'm picturing it wrong?

I think you've done something wrong...

It doesn't sound like bubbles to me, how did you come to that conclusion?? Genuinely interested, not being a jerk.

Very soft, they will be fine on the street. I've got 6kg front 8kg rear and they are fine, could even deal with going a bit harder. When you say 4/4, I assume you're meaning 4kg front and 4kg rear? Not sure how that would upset the handling, usually the front is harder to deal with the weight of the engine... I'll let someone with more experience answer that. If you have a GT though, just make sure you aren't buying coilovers for a GTT. The rear mounts are different. GT's effectively use R33 GTST suspension.

Hard to say if it's safe to drive. The intake pipe won't make a difference, but if you have another issue then it might still be dangerous.

The total size of the pipe has nothing to do with it, your engine only flows so much air at idle. It's the engine drawing air through the pipes, not the pipes forcing air into the engine. Until you get on boost obviously, which is when size matters. I'd say it is your cams, not your intake pipe.

It shouldn't be, the AFM will still be registering the air going in. Also your engine can only swallow so much air at idle. Unless your stock intake pipe was a restriction, which it wouldn't have been, then it won't be using any more at idle with a 4" intake compared to a 2.5" intake. Or so I understand it. Doesn't sound right to me, I had no problems with changing my intake pipe without a tune. Did you change anything else, ie. blocked PCV or bov or anything like that?

This. If you're just after a nice sound then get a cheap set, doesn't matter what they are. If you are trying to make more power... Refer back to above.

Go Shadow Pro, Matt I've got them in my car, they work well and look exactly like Defi's.

More trouble than it's worth. Now I'm confused about what you are trying to do?

Haha no problem man, happy I could help you out for a change

I haven't had an issue with mosquito bites since I learned that the histamine is the bodies response to the protein in the mosquitoes saliva. Simple cure, make a cup of coffee or something hot, and hold it on the bite for 10-15 seconds or as long as you can bear without actually burning yourself. Might have to repeat a few times, but usually works first go for me. The heat denatures the protein, meaning no more histamine response = no more itchiness. Of course my issue with mosquitoes in general is that they are disease-harboring parasites, so I kill the f**kers anyway.

Either way is easy. On my old setup I just cut the factory hard pipe to suit and used that, but I was using a GTR bov so the hard pipe worked as a reducer. If you're using the factory bov then you can just replace the whole hard pipe with some hose. Personally I think it is easier to just cut the hard pipe to suit, large ID hoses have a tendency to kink and make routing them a bit messy etc.

Was the boost controller already hooked up, so it's just a case of plumbing it in again? Which vacuum lines need doing?