Birds

You might have...Simon's less of a d-bag, though.

88E enjoying a nice rise for a 4 cent high leading into expected news Was trading 3.1 last week / early this week

Any issues or damage? Boot lid looks slightly out, but could be angle...

We've been struggling hard without your down-to-earth, life-of-the-party personality and 800k+ investment advice

SMS'd

I think it'd be awful personally...like hitting a power brick wall. Pretty much how an 86 accelerates, but with a little lag to boot. Not lifting the bottom and top to be linear with the mid, but dragging the mid down. The opposite of converting to E85 haha. It might be alright in a circuit car where you're not concerning yourself with the first half of the rev range. Ultimately your car is still going to be quick, but I believe it can be quicker in more places with a smaller turbo. That said, I'm of the opinion that anything more than ~300rwkw in a GTS-T on street tyres is a waste, so I'm always going to push for smaller turbos. The thing with a lack of traction is that it's better for the gearbox than grip. Grip is the resistance / inertia / holding the output shaft while engine tries to turn the cogs. Once grip frees up, the gearbox is safer (obviously sustained high RPM abuse will melt the bearings). Pretty much why AWD GTRs smash 3rd gear all the time in spite of it being internally much the same box as the GTS-T (grip and transfer case pressures). So as long as you're not putting that 400rwkw to the ground, I think you'd be alright with that box.

Yes that theory is sound if all you want to do is produce the kw figure without risking the gearbox. However, you're still tethering the performance of the engine...and not in the most efficient way. Something you'd be better off doing with a smaller turbo IMO and gaining the benefits of more response / less lag. Choking the turbo up top is simply the trade off for better performance down low - it sucks, but so does lag to some people. Don't take the engine speed that high; you don't have to when you're making full boost at 3000rpm. I choke mine at 6000rpm too, but by that speed in 2nd gear the drag race is usually over. In an auto with traction issues it MAY make sense to manually restrict it, given you don't have the throttle control of a manual gearbox to control your wheelspin. But otherwise, all you're doing with a torque restriction is dyno queening. Given torque is a measure of rotational force and power is a measure of torque over time, you're removing the point of having a car that produces 400rwkw, save for dyno comps!

Oh I forgot to...carry the 1

Keeping all the bad parts of a turbo and getting rid of the good is a Mohsen spec idea. Might as well fit a smaller turbo that will deliver the same boost and power much earlier on. The reason you'd be getting 400rwkw from the box is that the engine is seldom going anywhere near that and you've effectively dulled your turbo to perform like a small one, but with more lag. If the box can't handle 400rwkw, the day you take it to that peak is likely the day it will break. Unless the box weakness is its input shaft, 4th gear being a 1:1 is less likely to strip cogs. Think of it this way - a chair is rated to seat 100kg. Someone 140kg sits down on it, quick or fast, that chair is eventually going to break under their weight. You can break it with 80kg if you jump on it (ala dumping clutch). A turbo ramping up fast isn't quick enough to snap teeth; only the torque limit of the box or a sudden surge from standstill will do that.

Being jap cars, probably faired better than most stolen cars. However, in my experience, if not stealing for parts, they steal these cars to thrash them and them burn/dump them once broken There was a recovered R34 sitting in my mechanic's workshop and the bonnet had a massive heat patch on it. Coilpacks were cooked. I'd definitely get the engine checked for compression etc.

Completely different engine. Let's keep the comparisons sensible shall we...given we're talking about two engines that, all things equal, are 500cc different. That is why I'm happy to generalise that, with similar power levels, one won't be smashing cogs over the other. FYI...I have driven RB20s and RB25s, back to back. I agree the former is a piece of shit that takes forever to make power, but this fact is largely irrelevant, because when it does make that power it is nearly the same peak torque being transferred through the gearbox. Load and peak torque are what smashes gears, not where in the rev range that peak is...which is ultimately the difference between a 20 and a 25. And if we're going down the path of experience...well...I've fitted countless 20DET gearboxes to modified vehicles, from VLs and 31s to S15s and 25DE+Ts. Done a lot of 25DET gearboxes too. It is the far superior gearbox, but as long as you're not smashing synchros and dumping button clutches with slicks, you're unlikely to break the 20DET box with less than 250rwkw in a 25. Anyway, I can't see Pat putting in a 25, as he doesn't want to overcapitalise on a 5k(?) car. Hence the garden variety detailing jobs.

Power is directly related to torque, son. These engines aren't different enough that if producing the same power there will be a large difference in peak torque. You'd be talking ~50nm at best. The 25 will bring on the torque and power earlier and that's about it. Hardly cog-stripping material. Unless he's button clutching it with a locker and slicks he'll be right.

If I was still doing life drawing classes I would have been stumped on what my employer actually produces... Shitty artwork? Female hard ons? The socially acceptable objectification of a male?

Cunts are assuming you won't live long enough to care about them making your information mainstream Puts a bitter taste in the latte

Let's not give rise to emulating anything Mohsen ever does

That has little to do with a gearbox's power handling ability Also, case in point...if he doesn't do the 25 conversion he'll be keeping the 20 box anyway This gearbox will be no worse off bolted to a 25 running much the same power as his 20 - synchros are driving style, oil and clutch setup

Yeah I know there's two versions, was just seeing which yours were

You can pay an excess and proceed with a claim and such costs will be covered by insurance. I'm guessing a set of 33R (?) rims won't be worth the excess though, unless the car has mechanical damage. Dumb f**ks obviously can't even park / drive. Not that I expected much from car thieves.

Are these with the stickers or engraved Nismo?

You don't need a 25 gearbox if you're not going past 250ish

Can't afford right now Have a mate with some 10.5s he wants to sell me down the track though... This is a pretty good price for the condition - GLWS

Not to discourage anyone from adopting these security measures, but there is a way around each and every one of them. I have portable hardware that can disable GPS - cost me $5 from eBay and it works well enough that people won't get within 200 metres of you. Deterrants and obstacles are all they are. And with apex cocks getting around, being inside your car is also no longer a safe bet.

Price?

The guy's desperate Pat

I'm the first to say "if they really want it they will get it" and "insurance is the only assurance", but not all crims are as smart or equipped with tow trucks, and ultimately you're buying yourself time by installing such security measures. I know which car I'd rather target.