scotty nm35

Our cars can run 91, but are relying heavily on the knock sensor to drop 10 degrees out of the timing map. I wouldn't suggest running it for long...

Good luck to them, I wouldn't put them on anything of mine. Tyres were cracked and perished, badly enough to wrap them around a tree at a moments notice.

Have you got a wideband installed? I would be checking the AFR's at wot just to make sure.

Can you check the water temp sensor is working correctly? What ECU are you running?

I still think it might be the turbo seals, I have a Soarer I work on with a similar issue, nothing I do can stop the turbo seals leaking, but it isn't all the time, and mainly on decel. Any chance you can drop the front pipe and check the dump for oil buildup? Shame the turbo is so hard to get to... Drop two catch cans in if you can, it will at least tell you if there is an issue with the PCV or breather and rule them out.

I only paid $600 for transport from Brisbane depot to my door in Melbourne. Give Toll a call.

There are petrol specific versions which are cheaper, I think I can get one for $160. Then there are the e85 compatible version which is suitable for both 98 and e85, $200. These run a sealed power plug.

Stick a Walbro 460L in there and forget it. Best intank pump available for the $200 it costs.

I lifted the head on my VQ due to the wastegate line popping off. It ran over 50psi for a few days before I realised.

2.5 inch will do it, but I would be going 3 inch for as much as you can, especially the cold side. Make sure any transitions are smooth and you have no unnecessary bends.

Looks like it fits well Johnny.

How much power are you planning to run?

And $1.20 e85 would be better than both, at least for the turbo/high comp cars. Ethanol is slowly becoming more acceptable with many classes allowing it these days, no thanks to the contract fuel suppliers. Racetrack politics at work.

It almost sounds oil pressure related, when the oil is hot it's thinner and has less pressure. Can you try a thinner oil perhaps? What are you running now? Were the banjo bolts drilled out? Perhaps too much for your turbo seals? Dropping a catch can in will show you if there is blow by etc, but it won't fix the underlying issue. Have you checked the PCV operation?

Injectors have been flow tested professionally and came up fine. No egt probe unfortunately.

Bought a cheap 4 hd camera setup, now to find a 2tb sata2 drive cheap. I will have movement activated flood lights soon, should help with the night vision. At least I will be able to rewind the video, to find lost tools when I misplace them.

220kw by 4000 is a great achievement imo, good turbo there Stao. As for 1800 runs... I thought I was doing well with 100 odd. Goes to show the reliability of the RB25 under continuous high load conditions.

Not the neo pistons from what I could find on google. I am sure there would be some pictures on SAU somewhere but I couldn't find them.

Can you test it somehow? Not sure how to clean the filter, does it look like you can remove it?

Don't pick some panzy euro beer, it will make the flutterz sound gaids.

You need to buy another (softer) spring from TS, and the top screws off. Most guys don't like the little flutter they make and want the softer spring.

You could have picked up 2psi for free with a Kompact.

Yes... but that was before your drive home, and before the breaking down. Something has changed since the tune by the sounds of it. Have you checked for popped cooler pipe joins? silicone has a bad habit of blowing after hard hot dyno time.

I use one, you may need to stuff around with spring tension but they work very well. Mine has been on for 4+ years and it was s/h. No issues so far...

I would suspect the fuel would be getting very hot on a long drive today, which would explain the noise. The issue with the 040 is the fine mesh filter in the bottom, which is prone to getting blocked. There isn't much you can do with it if it is blocked either. Some have cut the mesh out but then there is no filtering on the pump. I would be getting a wideband on it, or dropping back in to your tuner to check the AFR's like Johnny alluded to.