scotty nm35

There is a relay box behind the battery, you will need to remove the covers to see it. Make sure the hole in the bottom of the battery compartment isn't blocked and filling it with water.

From my experience the iac valve tries to target a lower revs, but any small vac leak can stop it hitting that target, which gives you that cyclic idle as it tries again. Even a small hose leaking is enough to cause it.

A hoist opens up another car parking spot. That's me. You spied the V8 Soarer I fitted a gt35 to, in the boot. The hoist stands out alright, especially when there is a car up on it. Must paint it red to match the shed one day.

So 70 psi fuel pressure on boost. I hope you have a good fuel pump. Actual output will vary wildly, but I would guess around 380kw or so, perhaps more if you can bump up the pressure with a high pressure capable pump.

No idea, sorry. I don't have a screen in my base model. Any other guys seen this? Certainly looks like an engine fault.

30kw gain from not having the airbox lid is interesting, shame we didn't run it up with the lid on and no filter though.

100kw from a CAS replacement is a great result. I wonder how common this issue is...

Makes for easy leak detection that's for sure. What pressure did you run it up to? If you can't find the injector Orings I can probably help.

How is it not really 100 octane? And tuning it on 98 will of course feel better than untuned on anything. The more ethanol the better imo.

Ok, well there is no error code on the ecu then, is it just the pit symbol for servicing on the screen?

Actually, it is also the direct injection, as there are no highflow direct injectors available anywhere. You would need to make a new plenum with larger standard 14mm injectors and try to work around the ecu issues. Some things just aren't meant to be, financially at least. Sell the car and buy a 3.5, there is a huge market for performance parts, as opposed to no market for the VQ25.

As long as the connections are clean you should be fine. Not sure I would trust hot melt glue, but the lid is fairly easy to re-make in alloy, then find some proper high current sealed plugs, or sealed bolts for connection like I used. Good opportunity to run teflon lines too.

I hope they strapped it down properly, apparently HPF don't bother strapping cars down at dyno days as I found out yesterday. I wonder if that's the reason some people never get the figures the are chasing? Wheel spin can give some very weird results...

I agree, using those ratchet stands worried me enough to go and buy proper 3T alloy pin stands. Plus many of them have been recalled. I use the Cosco jack and these stands, with them I have jacked up more cars than anyone on here probably. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TORIN-BIG-RED-JACKS-3-TON-ALLOY-JACK-STANDS-CAR-WORKSHOP-DRAGS-RACING-/300859183184?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item460c9ad050&_uhb=1 Or for less than a set of rims you can buy a full two post hoist like mine, they are much safer and you would be surprised how many mates would arrive with it.

100 degrees or more is fine for a hot day imo. You will probably find the track temp is 40+ so the radiator was doing a fairly good job. Getting the shroud back on should be a priority though, can you get something fabricated in alloy perhaps?

About 5m at a guess. It would depend if the inside of the muffler is stainless, or if it is just the body. Exhaust gas is very corrosive and will rust out any unprotected steel in no time. Are you looking S/H or new? Perhaps someone could make you a proper stainless system locally rather than importing?

No-one put your parts down, they, as I, simply stated that you wasted your money fitting those parts, as the factory gear will easily handle more than you want (and you won't cop a defect for them.) I am currently using the Taiwanese knock off Tial stainless housings to suit the GT30 series 60mm wheels, making 350awkw through an auto. Anyone saying knock off housings are no good needs to see the color mine glows at the track. Have a look around, there are plenty to chose from. Failing that, try Street to track, he may be able to get you a genuine housing cheaper than MTQ etc can supply locally. You will still be looking at $500 or so at a guess. Throwing money at it won't solve your problem, you need to find the restriction. Dropping the exhaust on the dyno would be the easiest way to test it's operation, if that doesn't improve things you will need to work through the basics like cam timing, intake sucking shut etc. There are 100 posts similar to yours explaining the list of possible reasons for low power, so have a search around.

So you tried this procedure? And did you get the MIL flashing? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261557-ecu-fault-codes-the-easy-way/

United sell premium 100. That's what I would be using if I wasn't tuned on their e85.

You mean speaker wires don't like 20 amp current draw Greg?

10.5mm, commonly called 11mm injectors but it's probably an imperial measurement.

If it is all you have access to, it will have to do I guess.

The more you post the less I want to help, mainly as you don't listen well. I have already mentioned a few easy power gain mods you DD guys can do, but none have run with it. You engine is very high compression, there is no way a turbo can help you. Anyone saying they have designed a turbo kit for the DD is talking out their ass. You can swap in a det engine if you want to go that path, but it has never been done before as far as I know, so you are on your own which costs big dollars. The SAFC will most likely destroy your engine. At least get something with separate timing and fuel control such as the Emanage Ultimate, although I am still unsure if it will control the direct injection circuit. Go and see your Pro shop that have never seen a VQ25, let alone a direct injection model. They would love to spend your hard earned...

It will stop the units actuating. At a guess if the advance/retard mechanism is banging the end of it's travel then the Orings will be fine, it will more likely just need camshaft degree reprogramming. There is a menu dedicated to cam actuation diagnostics on the consult 3. Things like oil viscosity and oil pressure will change the requirements for cam control away from the factory settings enough to require reprogramming of the pwm signal. These engines learn to some extent but there are definitely re-learn procedures your mech can try. Failing that, I have heard of the hydraulic solenoids getting blocked inside, there is a fine gauze filter on them. If you are having problems with the electronic actuator though, then you may need to replace the advance/retard assembly as I mentioned earlier. Quite a common fault on the VQ25's.

Best way is to plug a consult unit into it and read the error code, I could help if you are near me in SE Melbourne. Where are you located Stephen?