scotty nm35

Cams can affect vacuum to the extent it is difficult to idle, good chance that was your tractor's only issue, other than the driver... My 1000's idle perfectly.

What would you know Diesel boy. Find another way home. This street's closed.

Blowing bong smoke in your airbox doesn't count...

I just use my air rattle gun, I bought it as I couldn't crack the nut with a 2M breaker and me standing on it. Seems to work fine, and it's a fairly heavy torque rated gun. I have had to replace new bearings before, one was just yesterday. Probably been on the car a few months but made noise soon after it was installed. Perhaps it was pressed incorrectly by the last mech, or just a dodgy brand? I have had no issues with the OEM or Febest bearings I have fitted for people.

It's quite common when you have small vac leaks Leroy.

Because it was tuned like that. As above, the tuner probably wouldn't know about the leaks, they just tune with what they have and make suggestions later. I just reviewed my last boost graph from Trent, 20 psi by 3700, 30 psi by 3900 on a .82 GTX3076, just to give you some idea. There isn't much difference between the .82 and .63 spool I believe, perhaps 200-300 revs, but the top end would feel so much better with the larger housing, and feel more responsive once on boost. As said, sort you issues first though.

Dino fuel lover to e85 guru in 1 tune session. My work here is done.

Are you sure that was a good idea? Perhaps all the posts recommending the rewire weren't worth reading... It has absolutely nothing to do with your turbo size, the pump requires it as they don't like low voltage. You can try and short out the earth wire to the body, some do this as a quick fix, but I like running it through a fused relay. Why would you buy a second hand pump when the new genuine Walbro pumps are $100 locally?

I can just imagine you two rubbing it down in your speedos.

The two lines on the graph are with filter and without Shame we didn't test the airbox closed with no filter, just with the lid off and no filter, (mainly as the filter kept popping out on decel.) The filter was dirty, though I suspect the snorkel holds power back a bit. Stao has drilled lots of holes in the lid of his which obviously works.

Nice power I should have results from my Evo7 setup one day... Same turbo on a 2.3 with cams. Can't wait.

Nice one, ask them for the file so the rest of the guys can flash theirs.

Nice, I have mine somewhere, similarly high silicone content which didn't stress me much. I wonder if it could be from the silicone based sealant used in assembly? I definitely prefer 4000-5000k oil changes, but I always drop it right after trackdays and heavy dyno sessions when I know it's been given a hard time. Skipping service intervals with modern engines will definitely end in tears, I have seen it many times.

haha. Burn.

I only do the dump/front pipes, unless the car is here.

It may do, I can't see a great deal in the pics, I would need to inspect it. I do know stagea hub shafts don't line up with the back of the bearing, similar to yours. I suspect rattling up the driveshaft nut would pull it tight though if it was newly pressed on anyway, although you wouldn't rely on it. Did you lube the hub shaft up first? Do you have someone local with a bearing press to try and push it down some more? Or you might be able to buy a cheap one... It takes around 5 ton to crack the old bearing off the hub, and 1 ton to press the new one on, so a cheap press from ebay could pay itself off in one car.

Nope, but that part has little to do with the bearing, it just stops the shaft from slopping around, and the bearing from sliding off the hub. Was the bearing tight to press on the shaft?

Sounds like you had a bad run. I have installed heaps of wheel bearings into Stageas, never had an issue myself. Perhaps the hub was damaged to begin with? I assume they pressed the inner race, not the outer, that would kill the bearing instantly.

New ones are best, but e85 must be stored in special lined custom tanks, not sure about the 98 but I heard they must change them every 10 years anyway.

Holy necro 12 year old thread batman. Still a taxi.

Forget talking about change in your pocket, how's the car drive Tony?

Because no-one up there buys it, coz it's shit bro. If United e85 is good enough for the V8 supercars...

And yet I have fitted plenty of 460's without issues. I would say if you keep the contacts clean you should be fine, but I agree, the plugs are definitely under sized for 20 amp draw. So the outcome of the thread was the 040 has a crap filter design, but you should just keep replacing it with the same useless pump because it draws less current? (I run twin 255's as they draw much less current for similar flow to the 460L Walbro.)

Catch cans aren't hard to fit, there are a few photo's of my setup in here somewhere. You can't drop the front pipe when it's hot, just check it for wet oil when cold. A compression/leak down test is a good idea. I just bought a tester myself for $40.

I only said e10, there is no way I would say to use 91, or 95 for that matter, can we forget the low grade fuels and admit e10 100 octane is a great fuel, and e85 or straight ethanol is even better please? Of course your car was pinging, the fuel was just too low in det resistance to handle turbocharging an NA engine. Even ethanol pings in situations like that if you lean on the tune.