Kinkstaah

That's the thing, the wastegate in my application is absolutely sealed shut until the 1:1 gear. Freeboosting does NOT get the MAP pressure up to the point where the wastegate would open. Hence me asking for high boost people. Obviously in a stock application when you're only building 5psi, it'll do so. There's no boost leaks. The wastegate is working properly. The car makes power in the range you'd expect to be maxxing out the turbo. I just wanted to know if I was the only one who noticed this kind of behaviour..

I have this kit (essentially, but its on a Neo) I use a GTX3076R (.82ar) It's very responsive. It makes about 407kw for a manual on E85. (but at 21psi, may be reachable on 98) I would say a better fit is probably a GTX3582, but of course it depends on the application of the car, supporting mods, and all that jazz. If I had the balls and didn't live in Victoria, I'd probably use a Precision 6466 if I didn't have to consider the local arm of the law.

It may, or may not though. Seeders, in general would have 100% of the file, and are sharing 100% of the file, and you could arguably identify and say that you're illegally providing/distributing the file for others, once you have 100% of an item. It makes it a bit easier to go after seeders, legally, due to that.

Can confirm, Scotty made a housing for a sensor for me that sits in the return line. Works a treat.

Hi all I got an answer to this in another thread, but because I am unsure I'm just going to ask again. I recently toasted a turbo. Pretty bad. I figured a nearly toasted turbo could explain my boost. But now I have a new one, on a new engine, and very similar behaviour. I'm hoping it's not just me. In any case: For those of you who run a lot of boost (30psi region...) How much do you make in 1st? How about 2nd? 3rd? 4th? 5th? 6th if you have a R34 GTR and have security guards Do you see an instant boost increase after you shift? How much of this is load based? For people who make 30psi on the dyno in 4th, how much do you get while redlining 1st? 30? 17? 22? Varies? I know that IN THEORY you get less resistance in 1st, so you will make less boost. You make none in neutral. You'd make more in 5th. Flow doesn't mean pressure. I get all of those concepts. You could say a super flowing head is going to max out a turbo at 20psi, while a stock head may max a turbo out at 35psi. But I want to see numbers. Anyone?

It is also easier to learn when you have an original base map that is setup right and you make small changes and tweaks etc to get your self comfortable with what setting does what and how the engine behaves. Just keep in mind any real 'power' tuning needs access to knock ears and a dyno.

Leroy should just buy my gearbox so I can go manual

But... Its two 30 amp fuses....

If I could stop melting fuel pump fuses that'd be great /issuesonlygreghas

Interesting points, here is a set of suspension settings I was given (knowing very little about alignment, I've used them) Are they ... good? Bad? Horrible? Front Camber = -1mm to -1.5mm Castor = +7 deg Front toe = 0 / Zero Rear Camber = -0.75mm to -1mm Toe = -2mm in on both sides Noone ever questioned these settings (incl the suspension shop I provided them to) Still keen to hear if they're good/bad/indifferent/you'll get 1000kms out of a set of tyres on them, etc

My engine is working, thus according to the laws of relativity, luck can never be gained or lost, only redistributed.

Traction Tyres in Rowville. x111111111ty. Have read that Tyrepower North Melbourne are also good. That'd satisfy the "inner Melbourne" part of your post

I use this argument a lot with people (because I mean, arguing is fun) whenever people say THE SYSTEM DOESNT WORK ITS ALL f**kED GIVE UP THE END IS NIGH and so on Especially re: America "THE BIBLE THUMPERS ARE DOOMING THE WORLD" types. To me, politicians are, and have always been, and always will be... tools of the people. Like they're supposed to be. But in reality, they're bending their appearance, viewpoints, etc in order to obtain votes, votes which are essentially a popularity contest. I fully reckon that social change will happen no matter who is in government. I believe exactly 0% of politicians in the USA thought that Gay Marriage was a great idea and pushed it on their own before the public expressed demand for it. See also: Decriminalization of Marijuana These are public opinions that have manifested and swayed politicians to create/change policy whether the parties involved want to, or not. Social change will always do this, no matter who is in power. So when I explain this is why I voted liberal, to the most die hard labor hipster beard, tree hugging, plant eating, soy drinking leftist free love psycho, they lose their minds. And like, that's pretty fun. Let someone numbers minded handle the numbers, the social side will find its way through anyway.

I did also think it's strange people a) Hate how politicians 'act like politicians' b) Hate if politicians act like 'Joe Q. Citizen' Like, what is it?

I use the above excuse for doing maybe 10 tanks of fuel in a week of driving. 'just flushing out the system'

The big question would be "What injectors do you have?" Followed closely by: a) Phew, I don't have those injectors b) Oh shit, I should clean my injectors

There's no way the blitz cooler puts a hard limit of 250rwkw, no matter what the calculations say though. Designing turbos around intercooler efficiency seems a little weird when surely it can't be the problem. No, my setup isn't the same as Stao's, but the setup from the turbine outlet to the throttle body IS the same (stock piping, too). And if I can get 400rwkw at 21psi on a GTX3076.... the intercooler cannot be the issue man.

I can't actually post up the dyno graph because it kills Trent's dyno when trying to do a proper pull. I'll have to try it on a roller dyno But I would like to confirm, cause if someone on the forums said they made 408kw (in a manual) at 21 psi (the dyno's gauge) on a GTX3076, with 225rwkw at 3000rpm you would quite rightly think u f**kin w0t m8? And laugh them off the forums. (yes I ran the engine in beforehand.. my life is empty and I can afford to do 1300run in kms during the week)

Rebuilt engine. +5kw, 500rpm earlier response... 10 degrees less timing... and 10 PSI less boost. I should immediately put car up for sale But I won't, because it would feel wrong for anyone else to break it

Never gone portrait but tbh I often use windows.. as... windows. Full screening everything is kind of "too much" on a big screen. Can see why Portrait setups could work but then, gaming

I made 375rwkw (400 in a manual due to trans slip) with the same cooler on the same dyno in the same model car. That's not to say there's no pressure loss, but as mentioned, are all FMIC's like that?

This is all the workshop manual has to say about it... I imagine it should be plugged...somewhere. From what I have seen in the manual the temp sensor and pressure sensor are infact different sensors (and plugs?) Sticking the head in there is the plan.. I have to anyway as there's a boost leak (of course there's a boost leak...) but helpful to know if anyone knows what plug goes where.

Nah man that was the coolant sensor - This has been fixed because the VCT plug and the Coolant sensor plug are interchangeable in the R34 (who knew!). That has since been sorted. This worked after reshelling, this is the oil pressure lamp. I've found where it should be with the workshop manual, but it doesn't mention how it's supposed to be plugged in/wired to the gauge itself. I assume there's a plug that plugs into the stock sensor somehow. The R34 (NA and GTT) have a functional oil pressure guage, not the old R33/32 (GTR/GTST) etc one that is slow and crap and useless. The R34 one actually responds instantly. It just mentions to test it with the "3.4W test lamp" and it'll read differently to it being shorted out. Given my guage reads EXACTLY where the "3.4W test lamp" indicates, I expect something is literally plugged in wrong or to the wrong line (or not plugged in). But.. what?

Hi All I actually can't find this info anywhere, in the workshop manual, google, SAU, or the local greek oracle. The R34 GTT oil pressure gauge is not the one that updates slowly and takes 20 minutes to tell you that you blew your engine up. However mine is not working, and I can't find any info on how this thing is supposed to be wired, or even where the sensor IS, to confirm that its hooked up right/not at all/broken. Every search result brings up info on installing additional oil pressure gauges but that's not what I want, I'd just like the stock one in the dash to work 'properly', or really just work at all. Essentially I used the point where it'd idle at when warm to determine if the engine oil was warm. And it was nice to see it move around with the throttle. Gave you that "This is working" feel. Anyone got any info on how this thing works? Edit: Workshop manual has some stuff as to where it is (I learned to look better) but not much on how it gets wired to the dash. Would love to be able to identify the part that is not plugged in right

This is something I liked to play with a lot, but I was never really 'sure' of the settings. Though my car was quite happy to sit around 15.5-16 and idle there, cruise around there at 100 etc, never really knew if it was right and backed it off a bit. (e85). Infact I could get it to cruise and idle at like 18:1 AFR, but I .. its numbers I was uncomfortable with but the car itself seemed to be happy enough to just rumble along like that. I ended up going for 14.7 or as near as possible when cruise/idle because it just 'felt better' (mentally, the car itself won't cough or splutter until like 20-21:1 AFR!) My main query is what about things like part throttle, 3-5psi, my AFR would usually be about ~13 or so, which 'felt' fine. What about things like in OP's post, high AFR at high RPM at 0 boost or vacuum? Is THAT safe? I realise you're on decal and most likely decel fuel cut when you hit 7000RPM at 0 psi or -5psi.. but what if you're on say, 1.5% throttle. Is this going to still work? I realise no one should be driving around at 7000rpm, in gear, at 1.5% throttle, but.. in the interests of tuning..