Kinkstaah

do it and post results

Yes, this guy is in Vic. And yes, the OP is in QLD. However its the same scenario, with much the same situation with much the same enforcement, with very similar police having the same thoughts with the same powers and using similar judgement. The link you linked Update: Is it still legal to ride?'s entire argument seems to be..... "Well they didn't say we COULDN'T do it" ....which is pretty much THE peak loophole quote of all time, in any scenario. It is obvious to a reasonable person that when they say bike for exercise, they clearly mean a push bike around the block in similar vein of 'ESSENTIAL' exercise, i.e walking a dog around a block. I feel if you get in to this discussion while on the back of a motorbike to a police officer, at best you'll get a warning, at worst you will be dealing with $1600 fine. do it and post results

^--- that is absolutely looking for loopholes. Logically though, going for a drive in a car and returning to my home, never getting out is 0 risk at all. However, police can't confirm that and statistically it is rare. Being pulled over mysteriously 150km from your home going nowhere near there (i.e all reasons you're allowed to be out are nowhere near your listed address) is almost certainly going to be fine time. All of the exercise has been along the lines of "A walk/job around the block you live/walking pets in said area", the intent of the law is clear and the article mentioned is clearly looking for loopholes "oh It doesnt say I CANT do that" including a quote from an official saying "Stop looking for loopholes". Realistically the guidance is... "do you NEED to?" if not = banned.

… could I also get this? The VZ one is a fkin DVD and near impossible to find. I have the VY Series 1 one, but they... change stuff.

Is it exactly the same scenario when the car leans out? Not only between 60-80% throttle? Not only under 90C water temp? Not only when Sensor X is doing Y? It could be tune related. Putting it on a dyno after checking everything mechanical (and allowing yourself to see things like fuel pressure while the car is on the dyno under load) will help. If you DO have fuel pressure, but running lean...

I reckon it is, super robust and they can be made to bolt down there if you keep the original SMIC brackets and such

I support this from the firewall forward. Actually I lie, there's a guy with a still streetable SS doing pretty respectable times at Winton, so as much as people on SAU bitch about Commos' being unable to handle, it clearly can be done to a pretty decent extent. Realise this is an auto so you won't be doing that... but still. https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/holden-commodore-2005/sse-ad-6431803/ Smaller cams are better choices if you want the thing to be good at what it does best (i.e be a comfy cruiser around town), cam surge will ruin everything.

Now I have an ODB2 engine, I have a double din full android head unit, so I can run torque and show any gauges I want! ? To the OP though, the point I was trying to make that in the future, they too will probably want different gauges/change the gauges there... so don't waste too much time getting the stock gauges working when most replace them anyway. Skip the middle man.

They are tough..... .... for a 25 year old engine. You're going to have much more reliability aiming for 350whp than 500whp though. How fast you choose to burn the candle depends on you, basically..

The oil temp is really the only one that does work well, but others work better, can have clearer/more resolution.. The boost gauge isn't really up to the task, and battery voltage is... probably not worth having a slot. My car is N/A now (v8 life) and I have water temp, oil temp, and an AFR gauge there. When it was turbo, I had Oil temp, boost, water temp. Back when it was Auto and Turbo I had 6 gauges, the 3 up top as well as AFR, Oil temp, and Transmission oil temp. Yes 3x oil temp sensors ? But the main one is it will be easier to install aftermarket ones.

So the search for a gearbox began where all searches begin, gumtree.com.au or FB Marketplace. I also figured i'd need a clutch, and one of the things all Commodore people constantly raved about was a remote clutch bleeder. I had already managed to find myself a starter motor re locator kit from mal wood automotive. I don't know if this existed on the Berzerk R32 that got LS swapped here years ago, because they went about it by changing the steering rack to a VL non powered one instead. It turns out before you make decisions on things... there's a lot... LOT of options to choose from, but I decided a) I want the car to be legal b) I want the car engineered by VASS c) I want the car to be dailyable, so that meant retaining power steering, and retaining aircon, as well as the heater. d) I wanted all the gauges to operate as factory This sounds like a bit of a tall order, but this is where my bad luck actually turned around. LS's often have standalone looms, so you can run the thing on an engine stand quite easily. R34's quite easily run standalone engine ECU's and don't suddenly have problems with the dash doing weird shit, speedos not working.. so my line of thinking was "this should work", joys of a basic car. I found a gearbox for sale eventually that didn't look like it'd been outside for 200 years, and found someone who was "90%" of the way through their LS conversion into Skyline build themselves, but wanted to sell up to conslidate cars/put money into business etc. Again i thought : .. maybe I should walk away, like this guy is currently trying to. But no, am stupid. In the end, I bought: 1x T56 Gearbox 1x Heavy Duty clutch for above gearbox Both Cross members, because the seller also sent me photos of a stock GM sump clearing the skyline crossmember, whereas the motor I had... definitely, de finitely hit (to the point we had pulled it off already to start notching it). 1x Standalone loom 1x "Later' ls1 ECU (needed to run Flex fuel) 1x Set of radiator hoses modified by seller to fit stock locations on a skyline (yay) 1x Clutch bleeder relocation kit. Pretty much everything I needed except manifolds and a tailshaft. The manifolds had made custom, I got a photo of them, but they had already been sold. 1x Rip Shifter 1x Shifter extension to mount up with the standard hole in a R33/R34. I also had to buy another engine, to get everything in the above package. I had originally planned on just sticking with a stock 220 or whatever rwkw a LS1 makes, and iron out all of the infinite bugs i was expecting to begin with and go and rebuild/try and make some power later, but this "forced" my hand. The engine that came with the above had a fresh rebuild with all receipts, a VCM714 cam (232/234 .600 lift), LS7 Lifters, double manley cam springs, double timing chain, 25% underdriven balancer, ARP fastners throughout, and the heads had been skimmed for more compression. New bearings, freshly machined, suitable oil pump, aftermarket baffling for the new sump, etc, and of course, all of the gaskets, seals and such were brand new and just fitted, which eliminated my shopping cart to replace all of those old things on the previous, now-spare motor. And the new one was drive by cable too, which was nice. He had initially built the thing to go and drift, so had done all the needed things for this to sustain some pretty sustained "high" RPM. Just so happens for me, the parts he selected were basically identical to what I was planning to do.. "one day".. It was at this point that family and friends switched from "This car is a curse" to "This is a good idea, see, the car wants to live, the universe agrees!"

+1. Just run aftermarket gauges to the same location. Pretty much everyone else does/will.

MX5's have issues of "What do I need to do, my car is working, there's nothing to fix" and "I don't have a lot of power". The stock SE one can do 190rwkw on the OEM turbo and Brendan Beavis has clearly shown its reliable in doing more track days than the entire of SAU combined, and being faster than 99.9% of people in them. GF still won't let me track her MX5 yet, though. So I needed another plan. I actually did make a note in a spreadsheet as to how much this conversion cost, how much I bought things for (and how much I sold RB bits for!, and a timeline!) and quickly realised that the big killer in all these builds is the friends you make along the way. By this, the level of 'while we're there....' is extreme to the nth degree. With the engine in the car, we needed headers. This wasn't a great deal of space, and this is with everything removed/relocated as best as we possibly could. However, the block hugger manifolds I bought were approximately this flat. They also didn't fit, pointing directly to the engine mount... ^--- above picture with the other side of the manifold touching the bar.. Both side like this. The supplier replaced both of them without complaint. Getting my money back instead of a store creidit though.. took many many hours of waiting in the store for the manager to get back from wherever he was, though.. At this point we had also removed the sump, because we were going to have to notch it in order to reach the crossmember. So we were looking at needing manifolds, a cable TB, Water pump/Gaskets, oil pump, rear main seal, front seal, sump gaskets, the lot. The "While we're there" started on the engine stand but it quickly accumulated. During this time a lot (almost all) of the RB stuff sold, so I more or less had a shell sitting on stands. The desire to just cut ties and walk away was very strong, an underutilized MX5 was in my hands, but then I thought "What if...., I'll never know if it was actually gonna be awesome...." So I started the search for a gearbox.

Can I interest you in a V8 R34 sedan?

Can I interest you in my Renault Megane?

Forza is great stuff. It never arrives remotely on time (brakes direct are aware). Pads excellent too. That said, with CV I pretty much on the verge of refunding my purchase (in janurary) with some Raybestos pads. Buy in bulk

Buy back wreck, buy neatish 86, put all good bits in new car.

As above... a manual conversion (depending on where you are) is "easy" depending on your skill and budget etc. It sure is a lot easier to do than say, get a full respray, and costs far less. Other condition items are also a worry. If the auto is clean, and you want to keep the car (i.e won't be concerned that "amagad its been "converted so it will lose value") then it could very well be the right move.

Don't be so sure. The GT2860R was used in the MX5 SP, which was a 1.8 from the "Factory" GTR's run 2 of them, so 1.3L per turbo. It's a bit laggy but eh. They would probably be fine on a 3.2L motor for example running two.. So 1.6 may be alright. Worth trying in the very least.

Well maybe not you specifically - But people in that situation wanting to do it, is gonna be well served by looking for this. The later LS1's definitely hold up better than the gen3 (L98, L99 6.0's, and GENIV 6.3LS3) That said, the data seems to show you need to hold 1.2G+ for 4 seconds to start having oil pressure problems in the most plagued of them, being the LS3. This is a bit more relevent to a vette on 335 slicks turning left on say, an oval track or really really big sweeper than it would be in my scenario in 200 treadwear tyres. The only real corner that could be a problem with in Victoria is the sweeper at Winton. But yes, any engine spun hard on the track can (realistically will) have issues. Unless it's a MX5 motor basically.

The pick of the litter is the later block/LS6 bottom ends for 5.7's. All the 6.0's are derived from LS3's (i.e GENIVs) Initial LS1's from 99-00-01 etc aren't great in regards to oil control, piston slap etc. GM fixed these when they introduced the LS6 for the C5 Z06, then updated the block and its updates for all LS1's, so the differentiation between a LS6 was the 243 LS6 heads. But later LS1's were LS6's from the bottom end side of things. These LS1's in Australia got LS1 heads on "LS6" blocks. They were in the VY and VZ Commodores. You're looking for 1256116812561166 Stamped on the block.

^-- this is also a decent way. to do it. Probably the best way. There's many ways, I just meant to say that some minor work is required to get them to fit due to the different bolt size between GTT and the GT. This is one of the "GT is just ... lower specced" things, like different ABS system, different bolt on brakes, S15 axles, balbalbala.

Right after then, tools came out and things started coming out with them. After many years of removing bits and pieces from the car it was actually a sadly very rehearsed system by now, but it is always suprising how fast it is to take a car apart when you really don't have to consider a) It running again b) putting it back together again ever Obligatory "Before" picture: eeeeasy does it Ah yes, Turbo goodness. At this point I didn't actually have anything to put in yet, however I had done my research, or at least as much research as one can do before actually doing anything. There's various good and bad things about LS engines, and while SAU is pretty awesome, the amount of documentation across the pond in the USA about LS motors is simply staggering (it continues to surprise me). Luckily commodores in Australia mostly have the LS6 bottom end (conformable on casting marks from GM) which is the best available one for oil control on the track, which is a revision of the earlier LS1 block. Later LS's and GEN4's have oil control issues that make RB motors problems look like happy utopian dreams. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/autocrossing-and-roadracing/2824807-let-me-ask-another-way-who-s-ls3-hasn-t-blown-up-on-the-track.html So while POWERRRRR was on the cards with a GEN4/LS3 I opted to not go down that path in the attempt to future proof the idea, and keep things simpler and cheaper. The whole idea was to get the car *running* with a stock engine making about ~220 kw before attempting to do anything fun for power anyway, and I figured/assumed/had learned that no matter what, this carefully budgetted build would blow out beyond all expectations, and a LS1 'should' be easy to replace from gumtree in the event that it does explode/let go/develop some problem, and I liked the simplicity of having drive by cable instead of electric throttles, one more thing to convert, tune for, make work 'properly'. I got Engine and Transmission mounts from KE Conversions on FB, and they looked the goods and had plenty of fitment photos, as well as working with the stock Nissan Engine mounts. Given my goal was to get this engineered, being able to use a stock mount for the engine and gearbox was super beneficial. I also discovered my stock engine mounts were completely and utterly f**ked, so time to replace those courtesy of Kudos Motorsports. A week or so later, this arrived: About 4 seconds later, this happened: Commence: 'Oh yeah this could actually work' thoughts..

You do need to drill things to use the GTT brakes. The R34 GT (non turbo) uses R33 GTST sizing for things. You will be able to directly bolt R33 GTST brakes (front and rear) directly to a R34 GT. That said, the entirety of "Drilling things" is making one 12mm hole a 14mm hole. Source: Did this ?

Finding rims is actually pretty hard for these things as they have stupid offset (stock 18x8 is like +66!). The XR5 rims are the same size but their offset is.. +52? Something like that. XR5s also came in a very similar colour. It is a bit funny when I drive past one of them in this car, though the Renault is a much better car. At least to drive.. It has 203,000km and rising, as I'm driving it around as my daily right now with no immediate issues. I am open to reasonable negotiations re: price, welcome to go and give it an actual test drive through a mountain road if someone here is local and actually curious.