Kinkstaah

Someone has come by locally to pick these up now, if I could close this thread I would

Thats the thing - They do supply the wiring...... but you can just unplug your stock OEM pump and plug it directly into the DW340. I had a stock backup pump here and thought to myself "That looks a lot like the OEM plug for a stock GTT pump" and lo and behold, it is.

The kit from Just Japanese requires no wiring. The plug on the DW300 will work with an OEM hanger, plug and sock. I have tested this recently within the last couple of months. Sure, it won't do 500kw+ on E85 on a single pump.. but that's not the use case here, and it wasn't for mine either given I have 0 boost and thus it can flow very happily. But mainly stock wiring, fuel hat, amp draw concerns being 0 is a major factor.

Supercheap auto sell this: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/pat-plusquip-fuel-tank-lock-ring-tool---universal-kit/SPO3564082.html I own this and if you HAVE PATIENCE you can remove it without snapping lines and generally being incredibly angry, then said at doing this job. Sadly I've removed the pump about 75,000 times over the years. I don't know if you're a large lad or a smaller lad but my advice to you as someone who is 185cm is if you are my height or smaller, is to sit in the boot and take your time. Yes you can put the seal on. The seal goes over the white thing/lid (you will see how it 'slots' in) then the whole assembly presses into the tank. then you screw the lock ring on. I spent so much time doing things the wrong way by trying to mount the seal into the tank first, then putting the white fuel hat on in the space provided. Put it together first then it'll all go in. But seriously be careful about removing the hoses AND where the removal tool is moving relative to the plastic pipes coming out of the lid when you've removed it. IT IS BRITTLE So brittle in fact I have two spare lids, and would recommend buying a spare and having it handy before attempting to do this. May as well throw https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD in the tank as well, as this uses all stock plugs and such. You may need to/strongly recommend you re-use your OEM fuel sock or use the one supplied with a length of hose so it sits at the stock height.

I have had an inquiry to Syd, I assume freight is gonna be a large PITA. Do Auspost allow you to send like 30kg in a box? Seems a bit iffy. I don't actually know the ins and outs of personal courier services to send heavy stuff nowadays.

Yes, it was checked with the roller rockers installed using a LS7 lifter that had been converted to a solid lifter with a dummy spring at 0 lash with a stock length pushrod. With the Johnson lifters longer pushrods were needed which are now 7.700" and 110 wall. Long thiccbois. People much more knowledgeable than I am are doing the measuring!

Yep, both. The ratio is 1.8 instead of OEM being 1.7. The rocker bodies are modified with a larger bolt hole and re-threaded with 10mm holes instead of the 8mm YT has stock. Finding out they don't actually fit the stock castings cause a lot of un-impressment by the person in the USA who tapped the new holes for the 'upgraded' YT product. He was very unhappy with them given their previous design did not require 'clearancing'

This is lower price now given apparently nobody wants these or needs them. It's 550 but if someone sees it on SAU and wants to make an offer, please do so.

More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill. This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.

I just used a can that's easy to empty after every session and pour it back into the fill hole. Takes about 40 seconds when you have 40 minutes between runs :p I don't see how changing any catch can stuff will reduce pressure if the system is sealed. And if it's vented - Does it matter where it's vented with regards to overall pressure?

America has truly gone crazy, this is all the proof I need.

I assume that Nissan give you a tiny little jack in the back of the car, with the spare. They expect a random human to be able to tighten a wheel up enough. Then I assume a mid 40's person putting a wheel on with the equipment in the boot is considered 'okay' probably. Maybe. Someone had to think of this. I would wager wheels won't fall off from anybody using better equipment.

If anyone has any suggestions for a 300-350mm long (or thereabouts) stainless muffler that is 3inch in and out I'm listening

It's... way cheaper than what SP have on their website? I can only imagine if I say "can you make this muffler, but entirely different dimensions outside of the spec you offer as customization on your page" it would get even more pricey. I was looking at their race mufflers or their 'ultra quiet resonators' which are just smaller mufflers. They start at $166 USD which is $264. SP mufflers resonators start from $299 and are too long/not wide enough/can't be made short enough.

I was going to contact them but their custom stuff doesn't seem custom enough on the website. Are they amenable to "Hey can you make this custom thing" (i.e a muffler outside of the dimensions the website shows?) I suppose all I can do is call them instead of buying something from Vibrant which has the specs.

The way they do the test you would be very lucky to ever hit any cell that isn't aiming at 14.7 This was my result... Really not sure what's going on there!

I was just working on the assumption that a cammed V8 is significantly less polluty than a Japanese I6 turbo was at the way they tested it in an IM240. Perhaps I'm wrong! Perhaps cutting one of the readings I got in half is a tall order. I don't know too many people who actually got their cars emission tested with a RB to really compare the data.

Or @PranK could probably exempt the account realising it's a real human being on the other end of it. Every Skyline now is a full resto mod job. It's more surprising when things aren't falling apart and quite frankly I'm surprised when things are holding up. I'm often touching something working and remarking it's kinda crazy the condition it's in for 25+ years old when I see newer cars from 2008 etc falling to pieces. I would not expect anything to work.

Well, I have my IM240 results with a cammed LS1... My Nox was 0.11 and my CO g/km was 0.2. Euro4 is 0.08 and 0.1 respectively. I'm gonna say for a stock RB this is actually plausible, BUT in Australia they were complied pre-Euro2, so the limits were: Which as you can see, is way higher. I'd say a stock RB with a new OEM Cat could? actually pass Euro4 for NOX but you'd probably have to do a hell of a lot of testing to prove it, and getting a car emissions tested and carrying a certificate of emissions when/if you get pulled over may be cost prohibitive if it's even allowable to get your car tested and re-classified. You'd have to find out what the UK Govt is using as reference material. It may be non-negotiable.

The max they would go for me is 50.

For both insurers I took floor plans and detailed photos showing the location from the street. They agreed that it was not visible from the street (nothing is, it's a completely opaque solid fence controlled by electric gates that people CONSTANTLY state they cannot access to deliver shit). There's basically a garage door or solid wall around the entire property line. They even agreed that if I put another roller door in they would consider it, in the same sentence agreeing it wouldn't make it more secure. Prior to this I had Shannons at my previous address - Their policy was over double what Famous were at the time. I'm a guy in my 40's with no licence suspensions (no demerits at all) and no claims. They just don't wanna know about it/don't want the business.

I am stuck with enthusiast and very unhappy, even though Lumley, Shannons and Famous are all options, they all require a lock up garage, and my situation (basically a walled off compound from the street) is insufficient because the car is under a carport. I'm confident to resolve the situation I need to build a roller door with fascia in-front of my roller gate which is a solid opaque metal rolling gate. In any other universe moving the roller door 2 meters in-front of the garage door would still constitute the same amount of security but oh no. My insurance rates suck to the point of when I joined a market research for Enthusiast they were all surprised that I paid about 2-3x what other people were paying with Enthusiast when I asked them why their rates were so high. If I lie about having a garage, I save like $10 a month with enthusiast. (It's about $2600 p.a for 5000km of driving for a very unsustainable agreed value). Lumley has terrible reviews but @Duncan made me consider calling them when renew time came up - but their horrible reviews plus Christmas time made me... forget.

I was very unimpressed with how the car came up from the A pillar forward, before I hit things (twice). It all has to go. It had to go, but now it has to go... more. So we finally found the very first Shennanigans with the entirely perfectly setup engine that had no problems being pulled apart to improve on 'was perfectly fine'. Cam bearings looked a bit... stock. Which isn't entirely bad given they were stock and this is a ~20 year old engine. So new cam bearings are on the way because it's somewhat difficult to get to this stage to do it later, and it will trash the block. It was quite unusual that it wasn't done when the perfectly new-looking VCM cam was originally installed by [unknown] What IS unusual is the cam that was installed there was advanced SIX degrees. As to why there is no way to know.. however it could have been @Dose Pipe Sutututu's mate who wanted a larger cam sound but also wanted it to come on earlier to be more usable. This is my dyno sheet with the previous setup - This cam is not supposed to peak until 7000+ RPM, according to VCM. This is what lead me down the whole 'my heads/intake setup is running out of puff and can't support the cam' line of thinking to begin with. Anyway too late now - New cam is in! It could be rather funny if this smaller cam acts like a larger cam because it isn't advanced six degrees. In the spirit of everything is working amazingly - the COMP cam required no dialling in whatsoever. It was about 0.5 degrees advanced, which seems pretty bang on. Any adjustment either way would be further out. I'm told as a chain breaks in it ends up regarding back about 0.5 a degree as the chain breaks in, making it bang on. In the spirit of everything was previously working amazingly - The timing gear that was taken out turned out to be was an N-Motion double timing chain kit, with adjustable cam gear (which is how it was 6 degrees advanced) and all looks entirely perfectly new. It also had a Torrington bearing, which was one of the reasons I ended up getting the Cloyes kit which they used in the C5R 24 hour racecar - Because I couldn't confirm what was in the engine when talking to Tony Mamo. I did believe however it was a Double chain kit of some kind... but found no supporting documentation or evidence for it.

Yeah this was also my suspicion, that pineapples exist to reinforce the OEM bushes because people CBF taking the subframe out to do it. Basically that pineapples and subframe lock collars perform the same intended task. The cup still bolts in under the bush/crush tube.. as to how it'll go I don't know. Two of the bushes at the back look mostly the right shape. The ones up front clearly have the impressions left by the pineapples. Time will tell whether this will work/make any difference. Ideally I would not want any lock collars or pineapples, I'd just want the bush to do the job of the bush. Time will tell if the car works correctly with only the poly bushes in the state they're in. Worth seeing, I think. What panel work are you looking at? I'm shelving everything from the A pillar forward because it's shit/doesn't function and this was before I drove off at the track and then drove into somebody! A second hand Reo and brackets is $1000, which is just cray when Mr.Hammer turns this piece of metal in regular metal shape.. considering it needs to be drilled to be adapted to the GTR headlight brackets anyway... So I'm all for $0 instead of $2000 (new 34 GTR reo) for the same result lol.

Thats the current state of the reo. Bit ew, but GTR Reo and supporting bars are $2000, and 2nd hand GTT ones are $1000... More engine disassembly. The good news is Various LS weird sounds are apparently normal Everything coming out is in perfect condition The bad news is: Everything coming out is in perfect condition It looks like whoever assembled this engine ~25,000km ago was telling the truth with what's in it and how they did it. Even things I was unsure of like the timing chain - But it's a brand new double row timing chain, spaced perfectly. They even cut up the stock windage tray to keep it instead of being lazy and to work with the baffle. Cam, Heads, springs, LS7 lifters, Pushrods - All look new and have obviously been working perfectly. In other news, we removed the pineapples that were loaded below the superpro subframe bushes. They look a fair bit munted and have deformed the poly bushes that are 'above' them. I'm telling myself that now that there's space 'under' the bush between the little cup that bolts in... that having a pineapple wedged there was bad and basically made the rear end solid. The pineapple and the superpro bush are ... equally deformed (i.e they have deformed one another from being smashed together). We'll see how it goes with bushes only. I am sure this cope will fail and the answer will be to drop the subframe and put nismo rubber bushes in there instead. $400 worth of gaskets and ARP head bolts to replace perfectly new looking gaskets that absolutely weren't leaking and were installed perfectly with great care - because god damnit.