Kinkstaah

I've left my car outside recently, covered in frost, started at 5am, water temp was something like ... low. Like "I should really consider the viscosity of this water going through engine" low. I.e, nearly frozen. Started fine. It's not really very hard to find out. What it needs is trial and error and most people aren't going to take their car back from the tuner and be happy to play with cold start settings. I was and I enjoy that so it was relatively easy to take the time to test but I can understand not wanting to pay $150 an hour over a course of a few days to get it bang on. Most people are happy as long as the thing actually starts. I am too, but I also had the tools handy to make it better, so I did that. I agree with you re: 270rwkw, housemate has S15 with 265 AD08R's on it and I say "stop there it's fine". Nice, responsive, grip, excellent. 400kw peak power at 4500rpm and holding that peak till 7500 is great but unless I run drag tyres (and a wheelie bar) up HWY it won't translate to much forward momentum. It does have its benefits once you have grip mind you, i.e where 4500rpm is 4th gear. Though it would be pretty lolsy getting up on 2 wheels on a traffic light drag. May have to go birds hunting.

The same? The only oddity I've ever noticed is that from switching between E85 and 98 it seems to bring up some kind of residue that likes to clog my fuel filter (which is removable and cleanable). To be honest though, having 400kw at 4500RPM is kind of pointless (cause grip) so really I should be just running 98 all the time cause there's no practical loss of anything in switching between them. Trying to tune them though you notice quick smart which is the better fuel. That alone makes me want to daily it on E85 tbh, its just a far better fuel, the car is just far, far happier to run on it. Smoother, way less charge temps on intake, etc. I'd personally want to use it when driving hard even if the power increase was 0. As for winter start being problematic, is an E85 myth. Couple of cranks (literally 2) and good to go.

OK.. I should re state. It is STILL running.

my car is working its time to start making massive changes

I am looking at this myself as I was wondering if I can get close with 9.5 +27. I have -2.2deg camber at the front, and happy to roll and maybe even flare guards if the price is right to get it done. As you have it, how close is it from being feasible?

Ahhhh. Looks a little like that guy was running thinner tyres than me. May get away with a spacer if there's any other 34 GTT'ers out there reading Any idea on what they actually weigh?

What exactly did these fit on? I have 18x9 +38 rears and I put them on my front to test and it didn't clear the inner uprights (with a tyre on the rim). This is on the front of a R34 GTT. Otherwise would probably buy these asap cause light weight pretend racer over here.

Enough to wear down a set of AD08Rs, actually!

Actually you'll find my car has been doing daily duties just fine for the last 6 months! .... so I am very interested in this Gregistrafion going forward as it'll soon be relevant to my needs

The answer is always "sell and buy someone else's project" if you EVER want to put any money into it.

Tis a series 2 GTT, but as it's an auto it's a VLSD. To me it's much more preferable than the Helical I had (but this was a S15 helical in a R34). But it's only a matter of time really until the VLSD becomes an open diff.

Tbh with a 6466 and proper tyres an 11 will be, well. Your setup is, well... VIOLENTLY overkill for that goal. 600RWKW and traction will end in tears, of happiness or otherwise with a 11s target

Similar to this, I have a suspect issue with my front shocks. Just really, really, crashy in situations where they really shouldn't be (smashing bump stops over speed bumps, for example). Is there anywhere decent that can take a look/diagnose/sort this out without giving the runaround/wild judgement/selling a new pair of shocks as a priority, etc? I know it's not an alignment question per se, but it's more of a "my suspension isn't really doing something right..." kind of thing.

99% 100%

6466 is certainly a huge turbo, but it's also about the most responsive way you'll make that kind of power right now. Either that or something EFR related. That said, getting a low 11 can be done in few ways, by brute force power as above or by spending the money elsewhere on tyres, suspension setup etc.

So what this is implying is that a Nismo 1.5way that fits a R33 center will fit a R34. Presumably viscous/viscous. Guess need to find out what that is. My worry is that I do infact need the code rings on the stub axles, both for traction control and ABS. I could never find out with complete confidence if the stub axles will or won't fit, but knowing that they are different at all (in the sense they HAVE abs code rings) made me think something else is probably different too, because.. just because they tend to be.

I am running the VLSD but I got SUPER lucky with the condition of the car I used as a donor car... so I expect with 400+ at the wheels it will only live so long. So much stuff is listed as compatible with R34 but I don't believe it, due to my TC setup I 'need' the two speed sensors on the half shafts. Like I am sure you can replace it with a R33 ABS system with R33 half shafts but what does ABS do in that scenario when it has 3 sensors instead of 4 all of a sudden? Noone seems to know this info, and having being burned enough times I can't even trust when websites say "suitable for R34" or "Suitable for all R200 diffs" cause there's differences, like always." The nismo part number is different for the 34 so it MUST be different which means something might be incompatible. It's enough to drive you crazy, and the amount of 2nd hand Kaaz and Nismo's going around just makes me outright sad when you can never be sure whether it will a) work b) can be made to work

If you find out what centers actually DO fit a GTT I'd love to know. I personally will be in this situation too sometime in the future, and I know Nismo have a different part number for the 1.5way vs all the other R200 diffs so I presume it must be different in some way.

delet pls ok

Just keep the -9's setup and swap when/if you get somehow EPA'ed up in Wodonga

Pat, if I get you on my insurance you're welcome to drive my car directly into anything extremely hard. Guaranteed to ruin all desire.

^--- Or you could just buy a 350Z and turbo it Much more room for wider tyres to grip to boot.

Are they confirmed to be exactly the same, internally though? As someone who is making above the general "safe" power for this gearbox and wanting to use it, the decisions as to what to actually do become a bit relevant vs going through the rigmarole of getting some other converted gearbox, i.e T56 or CD009 350/370Z box.

So... how does one organize what you did in Japan, Rekin? Did want to go to Japan and do something like that quite a bit, maybe even try and JDM road trip it but never really knew how to achieve it

It really depends on what is actually in the car. Are the injectors REALLY upgraded? If so, the stock NA Ecu will not run them. If they're really upgraded, well, then the e-manage has already had to have been tuned in some form to run with them. Has the engine really been built and forged? It seems very unlikely that someone would build and forge a NA engine and then put a turbo on that without a decent ECU or system to run it. Like super pants-on-head dumb. You'd just put a turbo engine in. If you're taking it back to stock, I'd be replacing as much as you can with actual stock bits. A stock NA exhaust would cost very little, as would a stock NA manifold. I'd be doing that as opposed to going to a fabricator shop to fab up a solution. If the exhaust is decent, dump is decent, turbo is decent then it may take some sleuthing to find out where it all went wrong or what limitation got hit. You may find that the guy put a forged turbo engine in but couldn't figure out the wiring to run the auto. Stranger things have happened.