GTSBoy

No. It's been posted in this thread before. That sort of cut is what is done to prevent anyone from attempting to put a written off car back on the road. The fact of this thing coming up "clean" without an entry on a WOVR is a mystery.

You have a non-stock, bastardised ECU setup. I'm pretty sure that we're going to struggle to work out why things change between having the Fcon plugged in or not. Recommendations to throw the thing in the bin and install a proper ECU are the only sensible feedback you're likely to get.

I'm with these guys. There is no merit in this plan. You will go broke, and you will go broke repeatedly trying to achieve anything with this car. The costs that you think are realistic, like $1k for an interior, are just laughable. You cannot even find most of that stuff these days, let alone all of it in one hit. Anyone who has all of it in one hit only has it because they have it in a car that is too far gone to be saleable as a car. ie, it's all f**ked. And they will still want to sell the interior bits for >>$50 each, totalling $5k. And they will be all scratched up, faded, broken and f**ked. Did I mention the f**ked part?

She's going stag and wants to turn up in a GTR?

That's the good shell?

Well, any exhaust shop can make you a (better**) exhaust. I grew up in an era where there were no off-the-shelf exhaust systems for anything, so I simply don't see the allure in buying a brand name Jap exhaust. ** Better is a debatable term. On one of these cars, an exhaust will make you exactly 3/5ths of f**k all extra power, and on a VQ just makes that horrible V6 noise. As to a lip and a diffuser........well, the lip might do a little something something, above 180 km/h. The diffuser will do precisely f**k all. So.....what's the point?

Yeah. 18 year old car. Spend money first on suspension bushes, brakes, tyres, before spending anything on the (relatively) useless stuff in your list.

Even better. R32 ECUs have a knob on the side that you can turn back and forth to put the ECU into diagnostic mode and read the flashes off the conveniently located LED right next to it.

There are switches for those, no? TC lockup could possibly be inferred from rpm vs speed also. If it sits dead bang on the relationship given by the gearing, then TC is locked up. If it is in the "band" available from TC slip around the gear ratio, then it is unlocked.

Just do it calculated off of vehicle speed vs RPM.

Bad news, they cost twice as much as they did couple of years ago.

Nah, that's not how the fuses are identified. If you look, for example, just above fuse 14 on the wiring diagram, you will see the 15A fuse for the fuel pump. That's identified as fuse #1, but it is not the top left fuse in the panel. It's the top right. Now, I've never thought about which fuse is which by number/order in the panel. Just used the identification of what it does to find it. In this case, it is clearly one of the IGN fuses, so that excludes all the other fuses in the panel. It also directly powers all those other devices, most of which are just pain 12V switched outputs on the ECU. So if you go to the purge solenoid, or the swirl valve solenoid for the inlet manifold switching, you should find 12V there. You will also find 12V at the IACV, but only if measured direct to ground, not across the solenoid, because the ECU causes the IACV position to be set by PWMing the earth connection through the ECU. I don't know the R34 fuse box at all. If I had to guess, I'd suggest that you're likely to be looking at one of the fuses labelled "ENG A/T CONTROL". Also, it might be possible that the fuse you're looking for is in the engine bay fuse box, although I wouldn't expect so.

Yeah. Don't do this. IACV power is PWM.

Yes. If there was a 5mm interference you would need to space thee wheel out by that 5mm plus as many extra mm as you feel comfortable. I'd not really want to run <5mm clearance, because even though all that stuff looks stiff, there is some deflection. If you only leave a 2mm gap, you might learn how much deflection is possible.

Problem with both your matchbots is the ambient air temp is set to 20. Fahrenheit. Pretty chilly. Has a 10% effect on the power!!!!

Blank it off.

Yeah. I think that was the salient point to take from the video. 4G63 finds itself on a completely different part of the comp map. I just like the thumbnail.

>1000HP 9280 result

I can't see it being the battery or the process of changing the battery as the cause. I would suggest getting it up on a hoist and listening to the engine with a stethoscope, to try to find what this knock is and where it is. The only ECU related thing that could have happened is that removing power from the ECU will clear some learned trims. But that really shouldn't affect anything that would lead to an engine noise, or change in idle rpm. Some people claim there is no such thing as a coincidence. I'm pretty sure that there are coincidences. This could be one.

What you should do is go set up your existing turbo on matchbot and tweak the engine parameters until it pretty much matches what you get at the two datapoints in your OP. Then you can throw other turbos at it and see what happens.

That's for convenience of assembly of something which can suck balls to do if you've got to juggle all the parts in a location with poor accessibility.

With the caveat that brake fluid leaking into the booster can damage the diaphragm. So when taking it off and cleaning it on the outside, do your best to work out what the situation is inside, and deal with any fluid in there appropriately.

That sort of ballpark, yes. Nah. The blue map on there would do 85 pounds and 2.8PR at about 69%. That would give you the same output on your engine, but with that much cooler charge from he better efficiency. The 62% line at 2.8 PR would do about 97 lb/min. But you're not going to be able to operate at that point, because at 2.8 PR, your engine & turbine only want to flow what they're flowing now. So that ~85 lb/min number. What you know is that the engine and turbine would remain the same. So the boost required to make more power must increase. Same resistance. So you can't be looking at the 2.8 PR area. You have to do an in-skull dyno/flow bench to scale up from your existing performance. So, PR say 3.2 might push you up to around 95 lb/min. That would land you on about 67% efficiency. Not bad. It'll be somewhere near there. No promises though....I did that in my head, and it's got all sorts of likely error! Note, a big difference (beyond the simple size difference) between the 91 and 92mm comp wheels is massive increase in inducer area. That pushes the choke line way over to the right, because it slows down the inlet flow.

Nah. Air to power is the same pretty much independently of how well the engine flows. The only way that the air to power ratio changes is if you change the stoichiometry. Richer or leaner means that you have a different amount of air for the amount of fuel you're putting in. At any given load & speed the air flow is approx the same (for the same engine), but if it is pig rich then it won't make as much power as if you lean it out a little. So, starting from rich, if you take some fuel out you make more power, but the amount of air remains the same. So the air to power ratio changes. As you approach stoich you sort of go towards a peak of how much power you can make from that qty of air, then as you go over stoich to the lean side, you start making less power again.** ** All of that presumes that you do not melt or detonate the engine to death first, which is what will actually happen in a turbo RB. But in an engine that is a looooong way from the detonation threshold (say, NA, 6:1 compression ratio) then the above paragraph is all true. More boost = more flow = keeping on going up that compressor map towards the top right. You will stay on the RH edge of the map regardless. The only way to push yourself back towards the centre of the map is to introduce a big restriction somewhere. So, I tend to agree with Lith. Turbo is maxxed out. Needs a bigger turbo, or at least one that is better optimised for more flow and less PR.

I suggest the biggest Century battery that fits in the space. I can't remember exactly which one I put in there. I think it's the 430CCA one. I find Century more trustworthy than most other options available in Australia. I also suggest that you either leave a solar panel charger on it, or a good float charger, if it is really left idle most of the time.