GTSBoy

The vendor you bought from is a dickhead who can't tell the difference between AWD and RWD bearings. Their eBay listing is one of the first hits too, and is wrong. Any other hit shows the ones that are on your car. A search for GTR rear wheel bearings, unsurprisingly, finds the one you have from Shift. f**king muppets.

And replace the couple of broken exhaust manifold studs that you don't know are broken, etc etc.

Just take the ex manifold off.

I was going to say "What you talkin' about Willis?", on the basis that the rest of the Supra apart from the badge and the "styling" is BMW....and then I realised that there'd be no Supra chassis present anyway. So as you were.

Yes. Microtech doesn't care whether it is running separate igniter or smart coils. Just need to wire appropriately. To be clear, the wiring at the ECU is the same same. The wiring that is different is around coil connections. Even that is not all that different.

And you'd be correct. The GTV got the viscous LSD (I'm pretty sure they didn't get any helicals) and the same fork shock connection as the GTT and GTR. For all intents and purposes it's a non-turbo GTT.

Hang on, You want to put a 320km/h faceplate on a 180km/h speedo? That's not how it's done. You get a 320 km/h speedo. It's probably relatively simple for an instrumentation specialist to recal a properly electronic speedo like that, provided that there is a means provided to do so. For an older analogue/electronic speedo, the factory adjustment might be little more than a pot that allows a +/-10% tweak. A very modern digital unit might need access to the correct programming software, or simply be a dumb gauge and everything is done in the BCU. (That last won't be the case for an R34 though). But as I said - no-one changes the face of the speedo then recals. You put in the whole speedo. In fact, generally you put in a whole dash.

My point was that it was not a modification/transplant that someone had done. That it was factory. Soz. Should have made that clear.

Absolutely they are. Smaller, modern, efficient > clunky old 80s shit.

Pov spec R34s (ie, without turbo), and in particular auto ones (I think) have that silly diff with the slightly longer nose with the speed sensor on the side of the nose. I'm not even sure that it's an ABS sensor. I think it's actually the VSS sender. Anyway, it's not an S15 diff, it's whatever was jammed into the stupid things.

Doesn't need to be idling. Just needs to be throttle closed with ignition on. Same same as idle from the ECU's point of view. See, this is useful info, because this... is not. You should be able to sweep the throttle from closed to open and see it run from ~0.45V to whatever it maxes out at (which is not 5.1V, by the way - should be 4.something).

Sorry to sound thick....but what does the "faceplate" have to do with adjusting the odometer? Surely the odo stays put and you change the fascia. Surely they are not the same thing.

Yeah, it is possible. But like many related things (ie, alternators), it's getting harder to find anyone who does and will, given the change to just throwing shit away and replacing with new cheap shit from Chinese factories. If you want to pursue the option of rebuilding, you'll have to dig up an auto A/C specialist or three to find out whether they still do.

There are industrial o-ring suppliers all over that would probably have what you need, so long as you know the dimensions and material.

Is good.

Prolly need a post in here where you can keep tabs of what got moved where. So, for example, 146 drivetrain and transmission just got dealt with. It would be good to know where you can find the content that used to be in there, and same same for the others that got shifted. I mean - I can see where 146 ended up, with suspension and all, but not all such merges might be so easy to parse.

At idle the TPS should show about 0.45V. Yes, it could be the IACV and/or AAC. Got tbe clean and working to do what they're supposed to do. Will not be VCT unless perhaps it is stuck on. Even then, it should idle.

What do these look like?

Yeah, it won't be that the fuel stays flowing during that decel period. the only reason that OEMs have fuel cut is for emissions/consumption reasons, given that the engine doesn't really need any fuel at that time. But back in the day, with carbies, fuel continued to flow under decel. The problem is merely with when it is cut and when it comes back in (as revs contibue to drop) and how it is brought back on when the throttle is opened again. Transient tuning is always that hard part.

Doesn't really matter. Just buy the correct clutch master (which definitely has the outlet on the underside of the front end of it) and f**k off the hardline and replace with a braided teflon hose. This will get rid of the stupid damper that's in the original hardline (if it is still there, given that your hardline has clearly already been f**ked with least once), and improve pedal feel.

Yuck. I wouldn't want to have to do the same thing in my car for similar reasons. It's possibly not as bad as that under my dash, but there is at least a local immobiliser/alarm, with internal siren, plus some of my own hurried botch jobs added on top, from....about 25 years ago.

Yes, well, one or the other. On R32 (which is the only thing I can look at personally) it's on the rad support panel. You have neither, and it will need to be on one or the other. I must say that the arrangement of holes perhaps looks more like it lives on the bonnet underside on the R34. The rad support panel doesn't look like the R32 one at all. A quick google shows....

Look on the top of the radiator support panel. ie, look down from there.

Bosch e-throttle. If you're going FFP you might as well put a proper ECU into the poor thing.

If the place was full of Skylines, then yeah. But there's not very many of them.