GTSBoy

There's a thread over on PF.com where this has already been beaten to death. I make this point only because the report that you're referring to is already out of date. They have walked back some of the silliness, including the need to apply for (and risk losing the application fee, if not granted) a permit to work on your own car on your own land. But there is still a lot of silliness left remaining. Victoria is a f**king shithole. Has been since way before we started calling it Brackistan. f**king nimby woke Stalinist nightmare of a place.

Haha. Good work. I feel some of your pain because I spent a bunch of time under my car over the period too. Probably nowhere near as much as you did. My happiness is similarly improved by obtaining a desired result though. Those side skirts are.....hecking. Very unfriendly for street and hoist. Sounds to me like you've made a cart that needs to be driven up only planks/blocks at a 2 post hoist, rather than trying to get it up onto a 4 poster. It's very pretty, by the way. Somewhat reminiscent of Marty's squid ink on SuperGramps - at least in the photos.

They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.

Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.

Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.

If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.

3 or 4 8-balls in the sump?

405mm from the underside of the flange to the tip. I will have photos soon. Mine is in a Neo, is AA000.

There's always "MIG it up and grind it back".

I wouldn't be surprised if this helps. And I wouldn't be surprised if it keeps changing for a bit after the new slave&hose go on, because I find that my clutch always does this sort of shenanigans after any serious dismantlery. And then it settles down after a few corrective tweaks such as you've already done.

Just remake the bracket. It's just bent steel with a nut welded to it. It is thinner material than you might remake it in. You just have to get the thickness right in places where it absolutely must be (and there might not actually be any such places. The same motor trimmer who you get to work on the outside of the seat would no doubt have done exactly this type of repair in the past.

Not much. It's barely more than an hour's labour. So that-ish plus a boot, clamp strap, some grease. But, being an R32 GTR, when it is up in the air and the driveshaft is out, about $9k worth of other problems will become visible.

Yes, as above. The welding is an easy enough job. Proper reupholstering, perhaps less so. These, and pretty much all seats of the same era (and probably still) rely on molded foam parts to make the shapes. That foam is the yellow detritus visible in the photos. And it is difficult to replicate. I didn't want the pain, so went aftermarket seats instead. But for "saving a classic".... it's probably worth the kidney and left nut that a trimmer will want to redo them.

Nope, but they are definitely one of the default choices. Well established.

I can't believe that anyone is foolish enough to believe that the base maps are for any other purpose than to drive the car up onto the trailer/truck or gently creep it to the dyno. No matter how good they are, they can never be any better than the factory maps**, and only the foolish trust those on a significantly modified setup. **Yeah, yeah. I know there's also the difference between factory maps being fixed to certain injector sizes and MAP/AFM/VE relationships, and the likely aftermarket ECU base maps being better able to handle the sorts of changes that would render a stock ECU dangerous, like different sized injectors. But let's just ignore that for the moment, because the principle is still the same.

Nice. Straight and dent free is what you want. The rest is easier to clean up.

Serial number. Increments by 1 on each block.

Well, that is something that we've been trying to tell you is a complete boondoggle anyway. Just give it up and worry about things that matter.

^That is a good thing. But it was never going to be any harder than putting a T piece and elbow either side of the flex sensor with a piece of -4 or -6 in parallel. Probably end up costing more with all the fittings, so that Radium thing is probably the right answer.

My favourite tuner has sworn he will kill me if I put a Haltech in the car. He has had so much shit over the years (and I have seen some of it myself, directly) that he just won't play any more. I mean, he still tunes the stuff, but he won't facilitate anyone joining the club.

There is no situation - totally stock / intake and exhaust / screaming full house monster - that is not improved by the ability to tune out the horribleness that is Nissan's stock R&R. So, yes, Nistune at a minimum. But if you're going to go to that effort on something that is going to cost many tens of thousands of $$, you might as well drop a couple more grand on an ECU.

Anything with black wires, rolling codes and dual immobilisation will do. Any such thing is only going to be an annoyance to someone who really wants to take the car. They will take it at gunpoint, or lift the keys from inside the house, or skulldrag it onto a flatbed if they really want it and don't want to deal with the alarm needing to be silenced and sidestepped before they can drive it away. I put a really loud piezo screamer in under the dashboard, exactly where you would need to be trying to work on the wiring, just to cause as much trouble as I could. Beyond that, these days you're probably best off finding a way to immobilise it yourself, manually, if and when you have to leave it somewhere. Hidden switches, ECU keypads used for code entry, etc etc, are all reasonable ideas.

Is a dirty cheese eating surrender monkey in drag.

It's been years since that bit was true.