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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. Yuh, which is why I said it is "flywheel minus drivetrain losses", which is essentially exactly what it is. Presuming you might lose up to 10% (for real) in the drivetrain, you get somewhat closer to flywheel power with a hub dyno than what you measure on roller when you are losing that same drivetrain loss PLUS the somewhat larger tyre-roller loss. Inertia can be discounted when measuring steady state, which remains an option with either type (unless stupid US inertia roller type, which should never have existed).
  2. With the obvious caveat that hub dynos are not telling you rw power. They are telling you flywheel power minus drivetrain losses. The largest losses in power readings at the wheel are, of course, at the tyre-roller interface.
  3. I think it uses the one on the diff snout.
  4. Hook the car up to a Consult handset (or good general purpose code reader handset) and interrogate the TCU and ECU properly.
  5. From the very first inception of heat pump/phase change refrigeration A/C installed in cars, like......most of the way back into last century..... switching the compressor on and off was the way it was done. It's only in the last 20 years or so that they have had variable output compressors.
  6. The dampers with the higher rates would have to be coupled to springs with higher rates. Otherwise you just get massively overdamped suspension, which is no damn good either. When I was a kid one of my coworkers had a 116 Alfetta GTV. He had Koni Ds in it wound to max. The Konis only adjust rebound. It had standard torsion bars. As he drove it would absorb bumps and get lower and lower and lower until it was essentially as compressed as it could be because the dampers were too much for the poor little bars to push back up against. Was funny as f**k to watch happen - no damn good to drive. I had the same dampers on mine, with stock bars, and only adjusted about 25%. They were great. Would compress and rebound exactly as you'd expect.
  7. Welcome to the olden days.
  8. Was this built in 2010?
  9. There is none when used in the radius rods. I am a strong advocate of sphericals in that location.
  10. They're all the same. The GK-Tech one might be ever so slightly more stiff/rigid than he others because they provide the mounts for the arms on the end of that centre bar rather than just bolt on brackets. But the bolt on brackets versions are just emulating the way the non-HICAS subframes do it anyway. The toe control arms are just mounted in basically the same way on the Nissan version.
  11. It can be worth experimenting with adding a Helmholtz resonator to some systems, particularly if it is one tone that drones excessively. This is a short(ish) length of pipe teed off the side of the main pipe, ending in a dead end. The length tunes the frequency at which it works. You have to experiment to find the right length. There's a recent youtube vid where someone did it, might be worth a look.
  12. Typical LLM response. Nearly completely useless. Says nothing that wasn't already known, with no useful details.
  13. Straight thru's have so little restriction that it's almost certainly not worth worrying about effects on tuning. Even a centre offset shouldn't upset things, but would be noticeably more effective (quiet).
  14. Centre-offset muffler under the floor, same as stock. Just....3.5". The change from straight pipe there to centre-offset will mean that you need to remake some of the pipe (add a bend or two).
  15. A million years later, searching for something else I posted, I was reminded of this thread. I eventually bought a new gauge. Put it in using the same probe (which has been installed the whole time stopping the exhaust gas from coming out the hole) and.... normal service has been resumed. The old gauge was definitely broken. /semi-pointless closure.
  16. I thought the only (new) BM57 that was readily available was the one that was a BM57 but with the wrong bias. HFM or someone's?
  17. You could try some less aggressive pads on the rear. I found (a long time ago when all my brakes were stock 32) that using the same (Bendix Ultimate) pads at both ends made the rear bias excessive. I strongly suspect that the stock Nissan pads probably use a different material, but aftermarket pads will usually be the same material regardless of what pad they are put onto. That bias situation did get better when I put R33 calipers on the front AND used the same pads - just transferred them from old to new calipers. So you should feel the difference with the change you're making. But certainly do not forget the option to change the rear pads down a grade or two.
  18. Will these fit on my Honda?
  19. Post up the manual extract and the wiring diagram (seeing as we've got no idea what type of car we're talking about here) to help with decision making. (Also, I'm nowhere near home and my wiring diagrams and manuals). I wouldn't suggest you do what you mentioned above on such a vague description, for a start! Depends on whether the power is from the ECU or the ground is at the ECU.
  20. OK, that explains it. The auto NAs are not something that even enter my thinking 99.9% of the time. If you put a small turbo box into it then you could use an appropriate speedo sender in that and connect to the dash. The caveat there is that I have no idea if the calibration of the dash would be even close to correct. It might not even work. I do not know how the diff mounted speed sender works, and there is every possibility that it is different to the signal generated from the gearbox mounted sensors. I would suggest hooking an oscilloscope up to your speed signal from sender to dash and recording the waveform at some known speeds.
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