GTSBoy

Well, make them fix it.

This speaks to your idle air control valve perhaps being sticky. Give it a thorough clean. The number of ways that people find to mess this stuff up in not limited to those that have already been done. There are always new ways. You need a competent mechanic to do some diagnosis. Maybe one of the things I listed will jump out at them. Maybe they'll find that the last guy to work on it left a dead hamster in the compressor cover, or accidentally filled half the pipework with silicone sealant, or the TB only opens halfway for some reason.

First up, compression measured on different comp testers is not comparable. You need to use the same instrument and you need to know that its calibration is still basically the same. So the 12-130 you have now could actually be the same as the 160ish that the front four had before. Of course, it could all be f**ked now, but it's not possible to tell from that measurement alone. The lack of power and so on could be form f**ked up valve timing, boost rags, or a million other awful surprises. 180 wkW is 9 psi on a healthy 25. So there is definitely something very wrong there.

He was last active nearly 10 years ago. Thread necro no likely worky worky. The best advice is clear out all the old crap, use an aftermarket ECU, build a complete new loom from scratch. The next best advice is use an R34 engine loom & ECU, adapt it where necessary to mate to the R33 body loom. Then at least you have a Nistunable ECU. The worst idea is to keep any of the R33 stuff.

Yeah, but Kinks has a 5.7L V8 in his R34.

It's pitting corrosion. Iron gone, leaving carbon behind. Should have been smothered in assembly lube, which is a good idea for its start-up lubrication benefits, but also is better at keeping moisture off the bare steel. Probably just do as Josh said, but I'd bet there's nothing to be gained from the cleaning step. You will have to be wondering what the bores look like too now.

Fairy 'nuff

Would express interest in the diff and axles if you end up removing them. What diff is it?

Yeah they usually mount under the valve stem. Whether they are moveable or not might depend on the kuntery index of the OEM.

OMG. Fancy using a RAL colour code on a car! What next? Pantone?

And so it begins.

Meh, hard to tell from shitty photos of shitty borescope vision. Could be small traces of detonation, could be nothing.

That compressor wheel has had a single solid object stuck in the scroll at the tight spot, knocked chunks out of every blade tip. The suggestion that it was already like that is probably valid. A good reason to always rip the housings off and have a look when buying a used turbo.

Not interested in measuring it yourself? Take 5 minutes.

Yes, well, what you really want and need is a centrifugal supercharger. Will give you more than the pathetic 130kW down low, more than the underwhelming 210kW at 4k, and put you back into touch with the big boy boosted RBs up top.

When I say "blowers" I only think of positive displacement. I think that centrifugal superchargers belong only on WW2 fighter aircraft and engines that are already so large that you have plenty of torque down low (ie, the V8 brigade). I think a blower on an RB25, running 15 psi of boost or thereabouts, should make double the stock power almost everywhere and be a riot to drive. It would feel like a good 5L I don't think that it would be too much boost for the midrange and put the block at too much risk, but there are ways to manage that if it looked frightening. There was a bloke on PF that twincharged an RB30 using a sizeable blower and a big turbo. It was fairly mental, even with very low pressure ratios across each compressor, because the blower got it moving immediately and fed plenty of gas to make the turbo work. I love the silliness of that and would really like to try it on an RB25, but the struggle to fit it all in is real. Power steering and air-con and blowers and alternators (and inlet an exhaust manifolds) all have to live in the same spaces. I have my own problems to solve, let alone buying someone elses!

Well the video refused to play smoothly for me, so that wasn't helpful. It is probably missing. No CEL is present doesn't mean that it's not missing. Could still be ignition. Could be weak fuel pressure. Could be noisy CAS signal.

Yeah, nah. I think he wrecked the closure latch and the vertical support steelwork, which is an essential change when putting a GTR bonnet onto a GTSt.

Which is about 30mm lower than minimum recommended for R and C chassis cars. You can go that low, but there are consequences for suspension geometry (and thus to handling, which will have....quirks) and also to clearance to lip/struts.

Yeah, but what about the measurements that matter, like the eyebrow height?

Maybe the mech. Unless the roof shape is the same, I wouldn't expect the panel, and therefore maybe parts of the frame to fit.

Yuh, wheels are too big and the car is too low. You have to fix at least one of those, or better, both. Cannot have cake and eat it too.

You ran it lean under boost. It could be f**ked.

Well, it doesn't look like a faked up plate - in that it looks like it should, other than that paint code. But there are no 4 digit paint codes. You've probably already looked at it, but GTR registry doesn't list R32 GTRs made in any colours other than 326, 732, AH3, BL0, KH2, the silvers (KG1/KL0), and TH1. Ignoring the handful in bright red and dark metallic green. The paint in that photo looks like it might be dark blue pearl (TH1).

Something's f**ked. Fuel pump, blocked filter, or something else fuel related. Blocked cat or something exhaust related. It is definitely engine, not gearbag, causing it.