2rismo

EVERY nitrous oxide kit manufacturer on earth bar one uses generic solenoids that are NOT designed to operate with nitrous oxide and are NOT suitable for pulsing. These included NOS, NX, Wilson, Speedtech, NyTrex, NS and nearly every other brand you're probably aware of. The electronic controller absolutely and 100% can NOT compensate for this design flaw and actually accentuates the problem to the point of failure. There are NOT 'plenty of specially designed flow/delivery valves' out there, there is one and it is not available for public sale just yet. Nor is there any such thing as a multistage solenoid. The nature of electric solenoids is that they are either open or closed - no half measures. Pulsing them simply opens and closes them rapidly to 'simulate' a partly opened valve.

The bracket is cheap but it's still a 10lb bottle. It's basically exactly what I've been using.

Pulsing generic solenoids is akin to throwing dynamite into the engine. They're not designed to be pulsed and anyone who argues otherwise is wrong.

If you're driving?

You've never felt anything like it. 300rpm and 100hp :-)

100hp gas and 4-deg less timing = 100hp at the tyres more horsepower.

$200 take them now.

No, not really. Although it is true that you don't actually have to touch the ECU to run nitrous.

I think you know my answer without me saying it.

Dude, you rock!

Don't worry about the rear housing in relation to overall horsepower. A stock-cammed RB25 is great with the .8 rear housing if you want to race it or pose on the dyno. For a street car I'd be getting the .63.

These are little more than interesting paperweights to me. Someone come and get them.

Lemme think about it. I'll get back to you.

The radiator looks great but the nitrous solenoid hidden in the space in front of the driver's side front windscreen looks nicer!

Yes it is. There are three holes either side from memory.

Nice Products - any speed shop

I got restless waiting for the new balancer to be made so I bought a pair of these to keep the airflow up. Two twelve inch, 225 watt thermos should do the job nicely. They weren't dear either. (Not as cheap as a pair of bloody AU/VT jiggers but that's not what I wanted.) They're made by Maradyne and the part number is M122K.

That's true. None of the R33 Whiteline kits would be what they are without this puppy!!

To the best of my knowledge, ANDRA do not specify diff centre composition. That would just be ridiculous. Think of the types of vehicles you'd exclude.

The best fix for the RROD is to send it to the modchip guys in Melbourne and have them disassemble it, bake the mainboard (no shit) and put it back together. When done properly, it is really good.

I reckon I'd like IMN026 then...

Save YOU some grief you reckon?!?!? How do you reckon I feel?!?!

Filthy ricer! P.S. When did you learn to upload photos?

You just love auctioning my old parts! Forget eBay, this is Stu-bay!

I will chop you hard, dinosaur boy!