R31Nismoid

I'm still not convined Nothing i've read suggested the clocks vs temps are as good as SB RAM is usually a personal choice haha.The sticks i chose had good latencies @ their given range. Obviously overclocking will alter but its all trial and error. Mhz and latency are generally directly related though anyway. More Mhz & better latency (keeping at 12gb) - the more cash you are going to be forking out. The price rises steeply as well.

There is discussion in the GTX thread about them all. Quite a bit the last month or so

Don't you lose TRIM in that scenario? Throughput would be spastic though

Yeah they ain't a bad idea for the cost. I need a full rebuild though so a 256 that can hold some games as well as other programs I use regularly will make me happy camper

I believe there is something like over 800 cars that go, and they are thinking it'll be MUCH larger this year, I understand they are all cruising to a motorsport venue (one that is large enough to house everyone) as an end point for a car show and stuff. (not sure if it's official yet, so i wont say where). Like anything, you will always get morons, but the Police actually get involved with this due to the sheer size so muppet ratio should be markedly diminished.

We are redesigning the whole For Sale section shortly and also merging all the separate state sections all into one area. It will be filtered to a degree to make it easier for people to find things. So to the separate section just for wheels - that will just go backwards from what we are intending.

I don't even have to look to know the ones you are linking are not IPS panels. Google the difference between TN & IPS That's why some brands are $800-$1000 vs $350.

This thread has certainly brought the lulz... Cannot believe some of the stuff before my eyes... Backyard mechanics at it's best. Next people will be filling their tyres with grass to fix flats

Start/Finish times ?

Yeah Christian looked into it while I was testing, not much could be done easily IIRC. But... You do get used to it after a few days I found.

Yeah the 2500k and 2600k both clock just as well as the other. I just would like the extra cache for non-gaming activities. So its kinda the best of both worlds. Hence I'm paying a bit more, and I feel it should be better for my needs. Ha ha yeah that's why I'm getting a 256gb SSD, 60gb wouldn't be anywhere near enough for me as ill run some games off it BF3 being one of those.

It's the same thing I was telling you about a while back:) And we established it does work. The circle changes... If you've posted in a thread, and there are unread replies - circle is "lit up" If you've not posted in a thread, and thee are unread replies - circle simply appears and is not "lit up" It takes a little bit of use before you realise. I can now see it easily even via my phone

Ye thats it - its changed back to the way IPB did it prior to the last version... So means we have to swap all the links BACK for a second time. It is very very annoying.

Yep, you're doomed. Tried and proven to be rubbish. To OP: put a proper Garrett .82-IW rear on it and all your problems should be solved. You might also have leaks or otherwise as suggested, but at least you then know the housing isn't the issue (which they all are)

I’m getting the 2600k as whilst the PC is generally gaming, it’s not all I use it for so the extra 2MB L2 cache will make a difference. Oh RE: PSU… I forgot to add that I have about 6-7 HDDs currently in the case that I’ll be keeping (in addition to the SSD). J And then there is the: Sound card that requires power Extra case fans Overclocking the CPU/memory. GPU overclocking from time to time just for benching fun as well. Hence I’ve gone the 850W route just to ensure there is enough room “as is” if I also decide to upgrade to a bigger card down the track or maybe add in another hardware RAID card. I have a Corsair 650W in there now, but I’ll move that over to a media centre as its 4.5 years old. Rather not risk… Enermax will do the job nicely as well as it’s Platinum rated & very well received in all reviews and user reports. I don’t ever plan to run SLI, scaling is never good enough to justify the expense in my eyes at this point, so I just stick with a single faster card and upgrade ever 18months or as required. That could change however so spending an extra $40 now could work out a good move in a year I am debating the Corsaid H100 as well. I do have mounting for it with 2 big exhaust fans. Only issue I see is the control of the damn thing is on the actual unit itself. You can control them via external controller but I've been reading that people are having issues when doing so which is putting me off. There is no real budget lol, I can spend as much as i want really. Just that it all fell in @ around $2000 which is pretty good for the performance I'll get (its always a trade off) M4s have also been having issues with BSOD doing a bit of reading. My current system has never had one reliabilty issue in 4.5 years so aiming for that again and hence going the Samsung route as my investigations have proved them to be the most reliable. Not the pinncale of performance in all benches, but they regularly come close so near enough for me and my needs.

Not interested in LGA2011 It dies with the next architecture move... And going that path adds $500 to the build which I'm not going to spend and performance for gaming isn't any better, its actually worse I chose the Samsung drive as its 256gb over a Sandisk (was my second choice), as the Samsung is slightly larger and offers a bit better performance whilst still being reliable and not suffering the random blue screens that some Sandforce based drives have been having.

My old E8400 is starting to struggle with newer games these days and is a serious bottleneck (even @ 4.2ghz)... And it's almost time to close off for tax So it's time to build a new PC. Here is the list of bits I'll be using, i'll decide later tonight on the final parts but its looking like this will be it. Intel Core i7 2600 ASUS P8Z77-V PRO Motherboard Corsair Vengeance CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3 Samsung 830 Series 256GB SSD Retail Box Enermax Platimax 850W EPM850EWT Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 OC 2GB Noctua NH-D14 CPU Cooler Anything not listed like mouse/keyboard/monitor I already have so no drama there. This would be closer to a $2500 build if i needed such things. The choice of a 2600k will likely surprise people in that I didn't go Ivy Bridge... From what I've seen the temps are not as friendly when over clocking, which is what i'll be doing. For a 8mb L2 Cache the IB processor (3770K) is another $50 to boot. I can always update later on anyway, so i believe this will best serve what I'm after and rattle off an easy 4.5ghz overclock on air with temps staying nice and say for 24x7 use. Love playing with near gear

Yeah or that - I forgot about the possibility of using a butchered housing

CORRECT! Start from a fresh install, clean it up, install all the apps you want and configure it all - Then image that. I always remove a bucket load of stuff from Windows that I don't want, different for other users perhaps. Then it'll always be clean every time you ship it over (do it once every 6 months, you'd be surprised how much improvement it can make).

+1 And going to highmount wont magically fix it. There is no reason an internal gate GT3076 on 18psi cannot make 260-270rwkw without issue. No-one else has problems with correctly sorted setups, so fix the current one before changing as the issue is clearly not turbo related.

None. And you don't play with it yourself on stands, you do it on the alignment machine so its aligned correctly...

Z32 and Nismo AFM's are not truly identical. There is ever so slight difference in the resolution/mapping of the AFM voltage. Its minimal and hence for all intents and purposes they are "the same". Go Nismo however - cannot beat bolt in replacement.

For $319 delivered - that is farking cheap. You could offer him $350 to ensure you get NO dead pixels perhaps, (rather than 5 or more) and then it's be a epic bargain given a Dell IPS is ~$800.

What's the total entry limit?

Just need decent boost control, fix the lazy boost response and problem solved! It wont come on any later, it should be coming up sooner (and hence no dip)