R31Nismoid

With "360rwkw" it should be well and truly over in 11 But then you did say "at the hubs", so at least you get that it's not really "rwkw"

Ah ok cool. There are other Hookers on the website that look offset. Must have been looking at those! Are you going single muffler or twin? Racepace & Difilipo make the big straight through ones (my two were a Racepace 3.5" that did 92dB). I've seen a Difilipo one myself as well, there is a LOT of weight in them as well however the quality of the actual welding looks like they are rushed but they are cheaper. Both are made locally.

Would still very much like to see some MPHs out of these cars to see where it all sits, to date there isn't for any of them.

Exactly. Least I didn't have to say it. Slightly less power, with bigger rear housing...

Just dropped the hammer. Changed to a Corsair AX750 and a Sandisc SSD $1738 Should have it up and running by next week as I'm (waiting for my Technet renewal to go through. Plus I'm too busy the next 3-4 days to do it, just need to get the parts here first.

Any idea of the dB they are putting out Scott? I'm not convinced of the Hookers - they are offset and not straight through in a performance term. There are a few hefty weight mufflers straight through in 4" between the $450 -$600 mark ea... What do the Hooker cost for 3.5"? I know with two of said mufflers above in 3.5", I was @ 92dB

Ya mean 4200 & 6500 Anyway more the point is it does, and always will as well all know (hence just answering the question broadly).

Have the pics, will get time on Fri or Sat to get them off my phone and upload. I took heaps so i'll sift through the useless ones and post the rest all up for you to checkout

Yes, yes it is. Either that or it's the tune. There are only two factors really, but im guessing it's a foot problem. And my figures quoted earlier - that wasn't using the O2 sensor. That was with it disabled and the tune adjusted to suit.

Yeah it's not WTAC spec yet Looking good RUSSMAN! EXCITED!

It's always going to drop off... It's not a 800hp setup that makes all its power above 5000rpm

Not likely to be around that long. Have a buyer for the dumps. Potential for the turbos (if the motor goes)... So just need a buyer for the motor and it’ll be split up no problem. First to cough up cash, wins!

cam gears injectors boost tune stock airbox Whilst there are a whole swag of other parts you could buy... spending anything more realistically than the above list with those turbos, will not give you worthwhile gains for the money you'll need to spend.

Yeah that kinds logistics would be a fair nightmare. Plus that needs space allocation, something there is limited space of Keep it state specific will work much better

How do you intend to drive? Economicaly or not? With 370rwkw I could get 450km/s to a tank in my GTS-R (and the tanker GTR i managed over 600kms on a fwy with 330rwkw). Also managed 200km/s to a tank regularly in the GTS-R and GTR. So as usual - it's all in your right foot, and the tune. Either way if you are worried about economy, buy a Prius

Exactly, been done that way for many... many years. Cut diff out, weld, fit sump

This is what I’ve always found interesting point of discussion I have neither of the above on any of my motors in the last 8 years (3 now). Nor do most others down here, with plenty of cars in the 370-420rwkw range so not just luck, all see regular track work with 8200-8400rpm limit and 200km/h+ Never throw belts using OEM Nissan. Gates ones were causing problems and also Daikin (I think?? going back a few years now when i spat 2 of them in 100kms). (I’ll find out if new Nissan balancers get used in the builds, I suspect the answer will be yes)

Several issues… A turbo will spin over 100,000rpm. In some cases over 150,000rpm. Poor balancing or tolerances of parts will result in cartridge failures Then there is heat. Poor quality metal/material that is used in a lot of copy turbos, is just that – poor quality. Put 600 degrees through the exhaust housing, this heat is obviously transferred to the turbo core/bearings, which overtime fatigue can set in. And then there are the wheels… They are using ‘70s & ‘80s wheels from the T04… Garrett GT wheels for example have undergone significant redevelopment since their earlier versions so offer better flow and spool for a given target, all of which improves performance. Then move onto the seals and surfaces not being perfect. Another failure point over time. The main issue with a lot of the China turbos is the consistency. 10 turbos might be fine, 2 maybe not so. If you happen to purchase one of the 2/10 that fails after 1,000kms, even 5,000kms – You’ve gotta pull the setup apart, buy another turbo. So you are already behind as it’s now cost you double (new turbo), and it’s also cost you time to replace it all. The poor man pays twice – Seeing it more and more these days here on SAU unfortunately. All well and good for a new product to come along and it be tested by a few people… Unless you can afford to do this however, spend the money on known products first.

You do not need an after market manifold. The manifold is tried, and proven. Whoever said it was a restriction does not know what they are talking about. And without even reading the ad, I can tell you it does not state they are locally made. Why? Because they look like every other China manifold.

This is the advice Or use a single GTR BOV either/or is fine.

It's well known that china stainless manifolds crack over time. What set-up do you have? Unless over 300rwkw on PULP or 340rwkw on E85... Stock manifold is tried and proven to be perfectly fine - so stick with it.

Yep foulcan or commo 6cyc on LPG

Dual pumps = run fuel pressure cut-off. problem of one failed pump and dead motor = solved!

Indeed, on a 32 it's generally a tighter fit But they aren't 10.5 so shouldn't be too bad in a +20 Depends how low it is as well