R31Nismoid

Yeah I think it's 10 for 32 GTR, 100 for R33 GTR and 1000 for the PRO (can't remember exactly but something like that anyway as you've said). It sounds like it is simply a faster acting/reacting G-sensor, so a faster sensor means the signal is produced sooner. Rather than the actual polling rate of the sensor itself, which are two different things

ORLY? Didn't know it was 100% ... AWESOME! Did you get it as well? Who else has jumped in?

As opposed to a proper low mount manifold/gate setup? Not one iota of difference between the two at all.

And how do you know i will? My bro had some sorta early access that i could've got onto, but i didn't have a new PC ready in time hehe.

Use of space mainly. It's easier to top mount a larger turbo, and cheaper because to low mount you'd generally need a 1-off manifold. I mean I've seen a GT40 low mounted so it can be done, there is just no room to work on it without major arse ache Centre of gravity/weight distribution and all that shit, low mounting in theory would be better. For street cars it matters not. And a front facing plenum, generally makes shit harder to work on (save for a plug change). When you split hoses under the plenum, you'll understand the pain that a larger FFP creates hehe.

^ and a strange one @ that. Certainly not factory.

Same as everyone else in the RB26 Dyno thread.

No set release date - set for Q3 2012 far as i know. BETA starts in the next few weeks... Hopefully i get in The more i read and see about this game, the more epic it looks like it will be. Looks to be a LOT of content will keep coming over the first 6-12 months as well via enhancements to mechs, customisation and all sorts of rad shit (all free). Only issue with that means it could potentially be quite buggy. Lets hope it's not like some other releases of recent times where users are essentially beta testers for 6 months

It's just the graph axis (starting at 0km/h rather than say... 50km/h) that makes it look different.

It's more reaching the top end of 4th... Put into 5th, get back on the power - and POP goes the weasel. They are not really designed to be having max load put on them being an overdrive gear which would be more of a problem than the actual RPM.

Love to know how you can tell a good design just by looking at it and not actually doing any testing! Otherwise, looks nice and shiny.

I know 2 people that have busted a stock 5th @ Philip Island... Leave the OS one.

If it was stuffed, in all my experiences... The noise will be constant and you'll know it's busted, you'll feel it.

If the diff was broken, you'd hear it. If it's worn - then well, that's almost a given. It's 15 years old Jerking could be a bit of play/blacklash. The mounts could also be quite work. Joints and overall drive train

Just start a thread in the events section once full details are up. Much easier that way.

Say what? Never seen anyone saying the RS-R take noticeably more wear than a KU36 - they seem roughly on par. KUs were a good choice when they were cheaper, these days RS-R for the money would be the better choice.

Kudos are a trusted SAU Trader... If you scroll down a bit you'll see their trader area a few sections down. Beats playing ebay fee's and all that kinda shit... Plus Kudos is Australian - not Japanese. So they are subject to higher costs which GST adds $40 instantly... (and the rest of the b/s taxing). You deal with an Aussie business, with an Aussie face... Not some O/S place if stuff goes wrong, you wait weeks/months etc. It also looks like 7-10 day shipping from the other mob where Kudos will at least half that.

lol ye misread that one ... Just quickly looked CBF'd editing as he'd posted already and knew my meaning

Tell "amy" to create an account then. Closed inline with forum rules

Should start a -9 run from 2800rpm really and using 500rpm increments as they should be making 10psi before 3800rpm... Starting @ 3800rpm makes it hard to discern.... Even the above graph isn't great as 4800rpm before 22psi is seen is a bit lazy.

Lets not forget not even 5% of the products on the market were tested They didn't test BN, so you can't say it's bad/misleading. I know a lot of guys that compete, that tell me BN = way to go (from a price point)... Trust 140kg builders over a dude with a spreadsheet

The -7s aren't 1000rpm better... So what are you asking? Mine were coming on hard @ 3300rpm, if you ones are not, then you have issues. Anything below 3300rpm is really not going to happen on a 2.6 even with stock turbos really.

^ yep. Either that or a VAC line or similar is getting a bit hot and loose. It won't be factory piping - I drove to Sydney with my GTR, twice. It was fine with 360rwkw, i can assure you of that You'd notice the car playing up if air was escaping due to AFM reading the air and the motor then not seeing it

I paid $1700 IIRC for 285/30/18

Sure is. Lots of PMs, lots of low ballers - the price is very reasonable for what you are getting, you don't find cheaper. So don't bother sending a PM if you intend to ask for "best price". The best price is listed given it's priced to sell.