R31Nismoid

Question is to open ended really. It depends how much you ride and/or slip etc. Everyone drives differently as well. I know a few people who've worn out 2 clutches in the time it's taken me to strip half a plate. Clutch type also makes a difference as well as stated. Either way they are a plate surface, rubbing causes wear.

haha standard FTW I've just picked up a VY SS, so going to be playing around with LS1s a bit over the next few years... 230-240rwkw with just a tune/exhaust/intake. Pretty cheap really. The LS3s can get close to 300rwkw depending on the cam choice pretty easily as two friends of mine are well into the LS world with both making 380rwkw. One N/A and one blown on LS1s, one is a tuner of them. It's amazing what a beating these engines take. One has been 380rwkw blown, for 80,000kms now (160,000 total)... Runs 10s and the only thing its broken was it blew the auto apart. Motor is still running fine!

A G110 isn't a mech keyboard... I mean my G15 has taken a pounding as well, even taken a few beers being poured over it and still works... But i use my mech board @ work, and then am resentful going home to a dome/membrane keyboard as the mech is soooo much nicer. Like they say, once you've had black

Perhaps read the sticky threads as well.. Tyres: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/72923-tyres-you-used-and-how-u-would-rate-them/ rim & tyre sizing: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/

They have to be the same diameter for the 4WD to work correctly, so basically you need 4 of the same tyre (its just easier). The tyre size you've decided on will be fine.

That PC is down to $1750 But nah f**k it... My luck has been so epically bad lately that i'll get the only shafting. It'll have a lot of backlight bleed or something really fken annoying. Plus my Sammy 24" is still rocking along without issues. If these monitors keep selling though over time it will push the prices of the other ones down potentially given they have only seemingly been around for 4-5 months. Give it 12 months, quality of the Koreans to improve a little (and likely small price rise), and it could well do us all wonders

Given on a 3.4l 2JZ it didn't really come on until 4200rpm, it's going to be interesting to see your results. Some graphs from a dealer below.. Made 900rwhp @ 36psi, so knock a bit off that for the Aussie world and certainly looks like you'll need a wee bit more than 25psi to get 500rwkw as Jez stated http://forums.evolut...766-inside.html That said the plenum might well be ok at that level given you are only running 25psi and at that boost it seems unlikely to make over 500rwkw as a result.

Closed. You are clearly a business trader, or attempting to be one. From your very own website: Here at JdmKnickKnacks we strive to bring you Jdm parts for your needs. We do ship worldwide, please drop us an e-mail if you have any inquiries Yet you tried to pass off a few weeks ago this: If you wish to trade here, you are required to become a paying trader like all other businesses. See this thread for further details: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/294953-are-you-a-business-want-to-advertise-on-sau-click-here/

This isn't e-bay There is no buy now, reserve or whatever. One price for sale - or lock.

Ah well there you go. $10 less and perfect WIN! Im sooo tempted... lol

As it would've been a Jap market, probably would have kept with the 4.11s If it was a ADM then the gears probably would've been changed. Al has 300-320rwkw with a GT3076 as well, so very similar setup. Maybe shoot him a PM and ask what RPM's he has what its like with a 30?

Aaron and a couple others were indeed out. www.aaronactive.net https://www.facebook.com/aaronactive.net

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Use it. It is extremely handy for working this type of stuff out. You'll soon see that using different tyres will change size. Then on top of that factor in that the rim will also change the way the tyre then sits.

Still here. Will consider splitting up the Turbos/Dumps & the motor If interested in either part - PM me. I will only split once i have deposit for each part.

All. I have a set of 4 Hoosier D.O.T. Approved Drag Radials in 275/40/17. The come fitted to R33 GTR rims. If you want to take your GTR and run some epic street legal passes, these are the tyres you want. They are soft as butter and you can literally press the tread in with your thumb. I managed a 1.5X 60fts on an airport surface in my GTR... So there is even better 60ft times if you are racing on a properly prepped drag strip. Condition: Drag Radials - done less than 20 passes, outsides of the tyres are still in new condition, not even 1mm missing. They have been correctly stored for the past 7 months since last use. No burnouts were done on them (due to being on R33 GTR with no RWD setup). Hoosier part number: 46730 R33 GTR wheels - Seen better days, some gutter rash here/there. Overall paint in average condition as they were my circuit rims prior. They do have centre caps. RRP for the tyres is $374ea - $1500. I got them for $1300 Price: $1550 - includes 4x rims AND the 4x tyres. Price: $600 for 2x rims AND 2x tyres Delivery @ buyers expense, i get heavily discounted rates so it's not an expensive endeavour.

Did you read any of the replies? You will have problems if you try and stagger. You will not possibly get the same rolling diameter. You will then have issue with ATTESA. It's not a question of whether you "want", its a simple fact that you CAN NOT do it.

They will rub unless you have the ride height up reasonably high... A mate now owns my rims with 285/30/18 +15 on his 34R and they only slightly scrub @ full lock but the car is reasonably low. If it was raised slightly it wouldn't scrub at all, but then it'd look shit. Strangely enough they were fine on my R33 GTR and didnt scrub the inner guard ever on the street (unless up in the hills, and only *ever* so slightly if there was a bit dip in the road). So you want to another 1" with 265s on a 10.5 on top of that, you've got no chance as a few of us have said... You'd have to come back to 10" and a +22 as stated earlier with a 265 and only then, you might be right but it'd depend on ride height and the wheel - forget having it lowered much at all as well with a 10" rim. 9.5" would make things easier using a 255 Gotta remember factory is 18x9... You want to go up an inch and across by 1.5 inches. All whilst having a lower ride height... The force is simply against you. Have a look @ R32 GTRs that have 19s, they all sit like a tractor as the rims simply don't fit. Scrubbing is a pain in the arse, depends if you can live with it or not but it gives me the shits.

Al still has 4.11s in his RB30, the acceleration of the car is phenominal (which is in the ballpark of where you are heading isnt it disco??). Then he is running 18s i think, not sure of the tyre. wouldn't be far off coming up on boost in 5th on a FWY, would be nice to put around on for sure even with 4.11s Funny all this talk about taller diff gears and a mate with a blown LS1 has recently put 4.11's into his car... Make more torque than any RB even will

As there was a bit of talk lately about Mech keyboards and what not in a couple of threads... A great guide/info to help you decide what might be best for you if you didn't already know about it: http://www.overclock.net/t/491752/mechanical-keyboard-guide#post6009418 Just remember when it comes to the models, it does not list everything. Whilst the thread does get updated, i know there are other brands available out there over and above whats in the list. I'm going to grab a new keyboard i think in the near future, so refreshing my memory by reading this was handy

Ok so doing some number crunching - going with a 750W PSU instead Enermax Platimax 750W EPM750AWT As most PSU's are most efficient @ 50% load - i'll be nicely inbetween 350-450W which is a nice sweet spot, and saves a bit of cashola (around $40) I'm still debating the Sandisk vs Samsung SSD route as there is another $70 or so there as well which gets the build back to around $1770 and isn't too bad at all for what should be a very solid PC for another 4 years

So you put the two highest flowing injectors into #6 & #5, tune to suit and be happy with a stock plenum and spend $2000 on hookers and booze

IIRC the half shafts between a A-LSD and a LSD model are different lengths... I know they are on a R33 GTR, so the GTS-t version (if A-LSD) would be the same you'd think. Sounds like you might be using one correct one, and one wrong one.

Otherwise that should be it. Once you remove the trim around the door handle, the plastic trim & screw for the door pull. It should just pop off easily. The GT-T has an extra screw point up the front over a R33 GTR, so i'd say a R32 GTR wouldn't have this either. There might also be 3 screws along the bottom of the door skin holding it in place. Then just pry the locator plugs out (just slowly by hand is fine, start from the bottom), and then lift up and off it comes!

That's exactly what i said - It won't be. Use the Miata calculator i linked about and it'll show you visually what I'm talking about. It's only 12mm difference & that will be more than enough to throw the 4WD out. The chance of you getting a rolling diameter the same with 275s & 295s is impossible. The 275 will be stretched on 11" and hence not the same diameter even if you get the same profile.

The old rumor has it... Not a good start that's for sure