R31Nismoid

I'll let ya know when i go for a cleanup on the w/e (if do have em, they will be stuffed ones 100%)

It needs to plumb between the AFM and the turbo... Nothing to do with the plenum

You shouldn't max the stock AFM with the stock turbo - or injectors for that matter. So the engine light flashing means there is definately something up. You can drive it, just don't flog the ass out of it. 3000rpm and light throttle = no worries.

Also the car won't run with a Z32 won't work until, again, it's tuned for it.

Ummm dude... You are running with an un-tuned car. What you are seeing is the car knocking it's ass off, because it's not tuned. Just because the AFR's are 10:1 doesn't mean it's not detonating. The base map, is just that. A basis to start from. Simply put you turn the key and then tune the car. You do not go flogging it on the base map... It's a sure fire way to kill your motor. In fact you might have already done irreversable damage... So you've got two choices really. 1. Stop doing it and drive below 3000rpm and off-boost until it's tuned (sensible person option) 2. Keep doing it and potentially blow the motor, before it's tuned (not so sensible person option).

lol my point was more than splitting hairs over 10rwkw doesn't mean much @ 440rwkw when you put a 5% variance on it for different dynos for instance Plus a GTR isn't AWD... Dunno how many times I've said it. It's not a 50/50 split so the power loss is nothing like an EVO or WRX. That would be a good start I think. If you aren't happy - then look at dumping a whole wad of cash... But bear in mind you will be spending quite a major amount for say, 20-30rwkw extra. Hence being fixated on a number can be your own worst enemy

^ well yeah there is that minor issue. You can get stuffed stock ones for less than $50 surely Dan I think I might even have one lying around in my apartment... Infact i might have two, i'll have a look.

Well for 1, your -5s are laggier than they should be... They will also put down more than 400 at the tyres if the setup is done correctly. Quite a few are 420-440 (which isn't far off your 450) Anyway that aside, single - GTX35 is still a good choice from the results coming in. People are making near on 400rwkw with a GT35 - add the GTX in, bit more boost, bobs your uncle really. If it only makes 440rwkw, just get the place to play with the figure to make you happy

Stupid or not - that's the law. You could work that out by reading the first 3 posts of this thread

No real gains

What I'm saying is - What do you actually want - exactly? Your posts conflict in terms of what you want, and what you are going to get. I'm also assuming you aren't spending any more money on the motor so a sensible 8000-8200rpm limit given the basic build?

So you want something that doesn't nose over @ 450rwkw++. Looking at 25psi+, and all in by 5000rpm on a 2.6ltr? Whilst still having a mid?

Kinda off topic, have seen that occur once on a 500-550rwkw circuit car setup. Was over a 18 month period of use and had a twist like the lid of a jar that you can tighten just that little bit more (no not talking big amounts). Should've gotten a pic of it, was a very long time ago (going 7 years now). Was a big frame GT40 IIRC

450rwkw, GTX35 and 25psi+ Job done.

mine is not limited use policy that im aware of, that said i never drove it daily anyway. I was paying $1,700, agreed value of $40,000 and ALL my mods listed. I had to send through a word doco... lol. LSV couldn't come close with all my mods listed... Which does make quite a difference.

Bah don't listen to them. I bet they've never tried to do it. Just like people saying you need a aftermarket FPR and what not for moderate setups... Fact is if the stock gear is working fine - you don't! Save your cash I ran 24psi/GT3040 through a single GTR BOV on my RB25, it would flutter ever so slightly so probably a needed to be a bit bigger, or go to dual BOV's.

Are you kidding? They hold over 30psi and over 550rwkw. Seen it with my own eyes on 3 different setups. No need to do testing yourself when there are 100s of people before you. There are countless users here all running stock items. Just go look in the dyno thread or search "GTR BOV"

You honked it just as hard. You said i wouldn't understand the difference - proof me up, so i can (and everyone else for that matter)

I made 340rwkw @ 18psi through stock R33 GTR dumps without a problem at all. Put on Tomei ones when i put on -5s (compared to other -5 setups using stock dumps, same spec built engines/dyno), the only difference... The exhaust note sounded different. So probably not the best $600 I'd ever spent.

The whole point of twin scroll is to work in the firing order 'pulse'. Would make sense... Manifold is divided Turbine housing is divided ... that the wastegate would follow a similar premise. Be good to see some actual information/testing/data with single vs dual with a true T/S setup to dispel - I'm assuming you have some?

All... As most Vic's would know I've firmly against the way in which the Gov't, Police and Media have been attitude wise with the "hoon" propaganda... And also with TV ads that are essentially scare campaign that often do not use any facts in their claims all across Australia. I am also against revenue raising speed camera's and the members of the Police force that are told to chase modified cars down like a dog would chase a postie bike. Better driver education, licensing and smarter speed limits have long been required in Australia. As well as policing the actual issues, not the revenue items. Finally an Australian Media Publication has taken the correct stance and is running a campaign that is becoming quite well supported across the space. Wheels Australia are the people behind it: https://www.facebook.com/WheelsAustralia Most of it from what i can tell is online as this stage, but no doubt to make print also. If you are on Facebook, and even if you aren't - head over to their page and give them a like/share and get behind this so it helps gather even more momentum across Australia to make the decision makers aware of what should really be done. Some of the flyers & words for you to think about. This graph from an official NSW Government document shows that drivers only slow for 200 metres either side of a speed camera. Since the state has 91 fixed cameras, that means that drivers are slowing for a combined 37 kilometres of road across the entire state. How can governments claim that speed cameras have contributed to the reduction in the road toll when they're 'preventing' the 'major killer' that is speed for such a short combined distance? Do you find that propaganda difficult to swallow? Revolutionising driver education is the key to unlocking a safer driving future for Australia. 'Share' this if you want to see a more comprehensive driving test with a compulsory car-control session as part of driver training; a world-class system of pre-licence education in schools; and more regular education and testing of current drivers. (disclaimer: I'm in no way associated with Wheels Australia, i just think it's about time things changed for the better rather than the Gov't budgets and poorly educated/licensed road users)

+1 to this & also fitting of a flex pipe. Could also be as others have said, issues with the tune simply being a bit off and too much heat getting into everything. And if the OP comes back and says it's a china/ebay manifold, well that's probably another issue as well.

You won't find the limit, if you don't go past it and that's one's own choice irrespective of power. If you have more, you'll just want to go faster and push in the same instance (someone that pushes, will always do it), so it's not particularly really relevant.

So make the car legal before going for a RWC? The rules are pretty clear and easy to follow - this thread covers it all. So if you go in with a car that's above board, there is no reason to then have issues. Given what you have listed is not legal, if you do have issues then that's kinda your own issue if you chose to roll the dice. I know it sounds harsh, but that's just how it is.