R31Nismoid

It's not the actuators causing it. It's poor installation (things like VAC leaks, lines too long etc) and/or other issues like exhaust restriction. I ran the HKS actuators for years without a problem. Boost was perfectly stable all the time.

I think firstly - what is the budget?

Considering you can get a D2/Ksport 356mm kit for $2200 RRP ... Spending another 2k begs the value question. They are well tried and proven on man cars, quite a few running in WTAC this very day with the kits (i've also run them without issue). I've been trying to get a Group Buy organised for ages but there have been a few issues. I don't wanna say it'll be "soon" anymore but I am still working on it... However is a new distro looking after it all now as of last month. Initial discussions have been promising and looking around a $400 discount give/take.

Turbo's - Don't go near Tomei. They are rubbish, search if you wanna see just how bad Cams - Stock if you are keeping a stock head. Injectors - 660cc might be enough, realistically go ID1000 (Bosch EV14). Idle and tune better Cooler - Stock GTR is fine. Clutch - Coppermix is certainly the choice if you can. Headstuds - not required if the motor is stock. You just need to decide if you want 450rwhp, or 500rwhp. 450rwhp you can do with the smaller Garretts (-9s), and are much more responsive over the -5s, which are the choice for 500rwhp+ You have a lighter car than say a R33 GTR. I have -9s on my GTS-R which is also lighter, and they are a LOT of fun

Yeah Richo, Russ, Newton... Snowy didn't make it i believe, last min issues unfortunately. And obviously the entire team of people up there with them... Pretty much everyone i know and i'm stuck here

Pretty much.

Stepping up onto the world stage is certainly a focus change. Gym still running for general or that also changed? (as in personal focus or business?)

The feature - yes. The PFC also has that feature. The physical solenoid - no. You have to buy it in a lot of cases further adding to the costs in both cases (PFC and non-PFC). So i don't see how that's relevant.

Yeah RHD is hardly new, nor are any others. Simple search would tell you this.

$750 + $700 $1450 - still cheaper by what, $400 or so? Anyway this sums it up perfectly: I took out the reliability comment about MAF's because lets face it - 10 years before new ones play up really, usually 15 years. What most people do is purchase 2nd hand AFM's. 6 months later they have issues, it comes as no surprise at all. MAP sensors are like AFM, just a sensor. So after 10-15 years they'd probably need replacement like all other things. Motec + every sensor under the sun. See you later $8000++ Silly question really. No-one has an endless budget for 99% of the applications in question on this forum.

It would, but you'd need to buy one and then add it to the map/setup, further added cost.

Hardly old school vs new school - both have been around for a very long time. It's nothing new at all. http://www.skylinesa...af-vs-map-ecus/ http://www.skylinesa...ors-vs-afm-ecu/ Just some of the many threads you can find by hitting the search button (there are PLENTY). PFC/Nistune + AFM is cheaper than (insert brand) ECU + MAP sensor in almost every instance, hence bang for buck it's what people go with.

For a street car, what do the extra logging features actually offer though from the more expensive ECU's? That's the question you have to ask yourself really because they don't offer much for the general joe-blogs who just wants to drive his car to/from work but also have a bit more power and keep it all nice and simple. The PFC tells you enough about whats going on in terms of knock, temps and so on for the "set and forget" type person. Sure ignition cut would be nice, oil temp pressure cut off and other things - but realistically they are a want, not a need. You also need extra input/sensors and so on which costs more money. If you intend on going E85 down the track and run dual fuel/E-sensors etc then obviously that argument is entirely different and you need to look at other ECUs as the PFC won't support that easily for a street car.

AD08 or RS-3 You have a GTR, so launches @ drags shouldn't really be a consideration unless you actually go drag radials and get serious. /thread

They said it wouldn't get outta customs in time yesterday http://www.worldtimeattack.com/index.php/sometimes-not-everything-goes-to-plan/ But then things change

Not really as in - No it wont do any damage. You just wouldn't push it past 1 bar, with the -9s on there. I've done it, on 2 cars - without a problem as long as you CHECK it on the dyno etc. The RB26 ECU isn't as hell bent on destroying the fun like the RB25 ECU is with it's Rich/Retard mode when you increase boost and so on. Injectors/AFMs/ECU need to be upgraded for anymore than 280rwkw IMO. Yes if you drive your car daily, in around town and so on - having the -5s you never have any fun with them as below 140km/h, you simply don't get to use them effectively. -5s have a great top end, they were awesome fun when punting my car around above 100km/h doing track stuff but below that as a street driven GTR. The -9s come on so much sooner and you never have to "drop back" an extra get to move in/around traffic which is the big difference IMO.

hehe I don't think you realise who Markos is... Yet

Not really no. You can run -9s on a stock ECU as long as you keep the boost down. Set them to 1bar and you'll make around 260-280rwkw and it'll be fine (I've run that setup on my GTS-R for the past 3 years). Of course have it checked on a dyno and all that to confirm it is indeed set correctly timing wise. Not even close. -5s won't come on until 4,000rpm+ around town in 1st/2nd/3rd. I suggest you do some more reading - specifically around the -7/-9 threads. There are plenty of them across the forum Yeah but in/out of gears - you still notice the difference in lag and transient response. What is shown loaded on a dyno for response is often not the true picture. I've gone from -9s to -5s on my very own GTR with a built motor etc. I can tell you for a fact that driving around the street/hills it's totally different. The -5s are noticeably laggier regardless of what the dyno sheet tells you. I've said it 100 times, -9s for a 2.6ltr GTR that is street driven is the best choice for twins.

How are you going to crash on the airport? 800M will probably see ~20km/h less than the 1000M, not 100% sure but given by 800M people are well over 200km/h, moving that fast the extra 200M you wouldn't pack on another 50km/h or anything that's for sure

370rwkw, will be very interesting to see what it does. You'll like the trophy classes as well... Making sure the non-skyline people are not forgotten

They are a IPS panel, so yes certainly a good option for photo - without the $1000 cost of a bigger brand name. But do remember there is always that element it won't be perfect. Still looks good though, colours are much better indeed

Entry up in hopefully less than 2 weeks for club members

When you first load SAU... Scroll to the VERY bottom of the page - click the "mobile version" button

your car will actually be done ?

It also could have been a shit alignment initially. Unfortunately for a simple thing, it often is done incorrectly. I've had some shocking alignments over years from reputable places even after I've told them what spec to align to; 1. They think they know better and don't do what you ask 2. Their equipment isn't calibrated correctly so it might be right on "paper", but the car is actually out. You can tell the car isn't "right" by just driving 500m down the street. So that is also something else to consider as well.