R31Nismoid

Then please read the dyno results thread, and use the search function. You'll soon see what people are using, and they are not 2871's.

Exactly. My 3.5" on my GTS-R is 91-92dB @ 5100rpm, so it's just over legal - but close enough for it's size and the added RPM of a 26. Has two custom made mufflers, big as possible - job done.

Generally you can get them quieter going custom as well, which is a concern for a few people hence going that route. Also Jap off-shelf systems often have internal reducers/restrictors. So they say they are "90mm", but half way there is a shitty step down to 2.5-2.75" to try and help with noise reduction. Something to be mindful of.

Wheels/Bar/Lip still here Prices adjusted

That's because they didn't show him on airtime at all for whatever reason, had a reasonable race by the looks of it! Reasonable race overall, lots of stuff ups still with penalties and pit issues. Also interesting to see the RBR team with a clear issue with the front nose cone.

Threads merged again Read the forum rules next time before starting multi threads for single items.

Didn't realise it was on so early tonight, 9.30pm start is the goods! I thought it was 11:30pm

Price or lock.

Tomei

Problem is you can't sell the rear you have, no-one wants A-LSD items haha.

Well I picked up mine for $550 IIRC, with shafts. When you see the price they are going for in Japan (get on Import Monster and see), $550 locally wasn't too bad.

Ye that doesn't surprise me. Ideally yes you want diff & axles. It just makes it a simple bolt in/out (once you do the centre.) But... if you can't get the shafts, you can use your v-spec ones as they are the same length. It's just the the coupling bit that's the different length betweeen VS and non-VS (the technical name for the part still escapes me)... I can find out the proper name and shit next week exactly and report back. I doubt you'll find a R33 non-VS rear in a couple days. I was looking for a good 2 months for one priced appropriately.

One thread is enough.

That has made me laugh harder than any of the Friday funnies I'll see on Facebook today. And I'm not laughing with you.

I've not played for a while, been 2-3 months. Back into SC2 atm... I wanna finish off Skyrim as I never really finished Oblivion properly, there is massive unfinished business Hopefully though when i do go back to Skyrim they have fixed all the buggy as shit quests, I had a lot of outstanding ones. I also wanna upgrade PC so i can turn on ALL the fruit and a few extra community enhancements etc to really go nuts

I could make my car pull 600rwkw on a dyno if i wanted, doesn't means it's worth the paper it's printed on. Do you even know if you have an after market ECU? If it's chipped etc? If you have factory one, it is exactly what we all told you before - it is not possible to "tune" a dead stock ECU. In that instance I doubt very highly you are making over 200rwkw (legitimately). 200rwkw is pretty much "the limit" for a stock turbo with a proper tuneable ECU and so on. A tune would cost upwards of $400 for entry level, so if you didn't at the least hand over $500 I reckon you are being led up the garden path. A properly tuned ECU will give you a much better midrange, drive abilty and improved economy over a stock ECU

No proper ECU? Without a ECU really you aren't realistically going to make any more than 160-170rwkw. So there is a reason you can't believe it - it's because it's not true. The car should run 110mph with over 200rwkw, I bet it doesn't run better than 104

I don't know mate - I was told to get a R33 rear end specifically. I know the part numbers for R32 & R33 are the same in terms of the Nismo differential... Doesn't mean the housings are though... Someone will be able to confirm though 100%

From the Nismo manual: When the L.S.D. is installed, a chattering sound (a clanging or clanking sound produced by heavy pieces of metal striking together) is heard. This is a sound produced when the L.S.D. is working and there is no problem with performance. Use the L.S.D. oil of NISMO make (GT-R racing oil L.S.D. 80W-90) or the Nissan genuine differential gear oil (Differential Gear Oil Hypoid L.S.D. 80W-90/140). If oils other than specified are used, an excessive chattering sound may be produced. I've got LSX-90 in mine, as have many others, no issues and it's cheap for 4L (2 oil swaps out of a bottle) LSX-90 is ok for Hypoid diff types: https://www.ils.co.nz/B1WebTools/assets/downloads/SKU%20TDS/4100637.pdf If you get chattering and want to remove it, just add a bottle (it's small) of the Penrite friction modifier

I just went through it all. You need to change diff housing to a R33 GTR Non V-Spec. Not expensive, can get them for 200-300 2nd hand. I thought you needed the non-spec shafts as they are different lengths when you measure. But it turns out the actual shafts are the same length, it's the coupling big (forget the technical name, bit where the shaft connects with) that is slightly different and I believe it can be purchase separate if you cannot get shafts to suit Makes it easier/faster if you can get the housing with the shafts together obviously. The car with a Nismo 1.5 GT Pro is 10000% better than with the crappy A-LSD, which has no upgrade options. It's set to the lowest lock setting and still locks incredibly hard when you want, very predictable. Any more I think would be too much. My car now behaves like a RWD car in terms of hooking around @ a motorkhana with a bit of clutch or trailing throttle lock-up and turn - yet straighten the wheels and it 4 wheel power slides nicely or grips and goes depending on what you want. Also induces some good mid corner oversteer where previously it would just understeer/plough off terribly doing the same things I didn't realise how bad the A-LSD was until changing over... I don't wanna sell the car now it's changed it that much

I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and assume you've not tried searching... Because all you need to do is read the 400kw thread, or simply the RB26 dyno thread. You'll see people, many people, have put 400 down with -5s and E85...

And with sound

GTR's are not full time AWD. Quoting rwkw is perfectly normal, most results in the RB26 dyno thread are done in this fashion. If you want to know more about the GTR ATTESA system, and how little difference it makes to dyno results - use the search.

Need money for other ventures at the moment. If I didn't I'd just keep it given the amount of money I've put into it in the last 6 months with new diffs/sump/brakes etc.