R31Nismoid

No.

lol... Well im off on Holidays on Thurs, back in 2 weeks - will go through the thread, collate and work things out

I'll be there in Wed (tomorrow)

Not many see regular circuit though making legit 300rwkw+ (maybe 1-2 days per year and then general street duties). Then add in the couple thus far that have died as well, and it's not a "safe" aim IMO. A RB26 isn't a 'mystical' beast either and eventually when circuit raced, will get tired when making over 300-330rwkw like others have before them. If people think a 15YO RB26 will last a few years of track work @ that power and not need a rebuild they are really hoping for the best case scenario, because realistically it is unlikely in most cases. 280-300rwkw for both 25/26, keeping boost to 20psi or less on unopened motors that see the track 8+ times a year, seems to be the region that will see them live for more than 1-2 seasons.

They are not bolt on. GTR/GTS-t = incompatible due to flange differences

Those people exist and have 400rwkw cars as well don't forget, just go with whatever they are served up Also interestingly (this is always an interesting topic) - Nizpro only use 63mm on their 400rwkw+ XR6 setups. They are taller than a GTR item, but not as wide (they are bolt in replacement). Now those cars have the MPH to back their power levels (130mph+ in a FG FPV), so they certainly aren't being restricted by any means of the word

Read the post you quoted Well I'm not trying to prove any point. I'm simply saying there is no need to change. If you don't believe that, then that is totally fine with me. I see all a lot of circuit cars down here using stock GTR cores - their lap times well and truly back up the power they are making, and the fact they can stay out there for laps until the oil or brakes cry enough is interesting. If it's not enough proof for you, then so be it. Go spend $1500 on a Jap cooler kit that actually costs $400, it's certainly no skin off my nose. And FYI - I'm no "e-mechanic". I've pulled/swapped my own motors/boxes, suspension, brakes - many times over. I guess at the end of the day it's a real pity you have backed down on your words: Would've been interesting to see you make (or not) the numbers Agreed as usual

It'll just be missing the clean "write" at the end or invalid characters that make the file corrupt due to the sudden cut off in power etc. Using a program as above will sort it Bris, I wouldn't be paying for a service given the free programs on the net you can download that basically run themselves. Bring them around here if you want and I'll give it a crack if you CBF'd trying (im O/S in 2 days, you'll have to wait till mid June)

My power, temps are no different with a GReddy core (that I didn't know I had). Guess you missed that post. But spend big if you want on the 'big mark up' Jap items that are coming outta China at the end of the day anyway. Look forward to reading your testing and if you see any temp differences at the circuit, i didn't. I mean I know for a fact a few local Aus 'brands' have been ex-China for over 4 years. That's another argument entirely however

So does that mean you need to upgrade BOVs, stock intake piping, plenums, ignition, oversized valves? Suppose people should all run out and spend another $5,000 on those items as well

lol ye it's a bit like that these days, far more so than in previous years. It really is a shame that game/software development is quite a ways behind the hardware. I mean hardware is also improving but if it was required to really become better from a number of developers pushing limits, we'd see bigger/better jumps than we do now

Yeah it's looking like I'll head down that path as well when i get back from Holidays mid/late June. Certainly a banging card for the money. Hopefully in 3-4 weeks might be bit better priced too

Off the top of my head: JAGR33 Snowman (few years back) Adz (Big Red, thats 400rwkw+) NickR33 ali-turko Can't think of everyone's user names, the first 3 have proven circuit/track results as well

lol - I didn't replace it, it came with the car. I wouldn't waste my money on one. We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples. I could give you a list of cars making 380-400rwkw on stock coolers if you like? no issues at all.

And posting in the 400rwkw thread... lol

Seen your car coming together the past few weeks mate (I've been down there a bit haha), came up very nicely

MInt shot

Be fine with what you have. Although for the money you generally pay for brembo's, you can do a full rotor/calliper upgrade for $300-$500 or so more generally which is far more beneficial.

Keep the baffles in the stock spot. I cannot see any advantage to run frontward ones, and turn the rear to the rear go direct to sump. Means you'd have 2 going: Head -> C/C -> Sump Head - > Sump Bad idea. If you are having oil/breathing problems then the solution is not at the end, it's in the motor build and restrictors.

Well @ 500rwkw, you don't have that on a 2.6 or 3ltr - you have plenty of lag though. For me: OEM coils, 19psi 360rwkw .8 gap. Drives and idles perfectly. If you run out of ignition @ 12psi with 290rwkw, parts were clearly past their date of expiry. I know of another 3 cars who are 400-420rwkw with .8 and Splitfires no drama's at all.

Oh well not that much lol, I think around $900 for OEM vs Splits with are $550? Cause it was "almost" double. I think you can get OEM outta the states though cheaper. Not looked into it (pricing my be off a little, had not paid attention to pricing for quite a while)

OEM/Split fires are near enough to the same thing. People don't use OEM simply because they cost more (call Nissan Aus and prepare for the hernia). Gotta remember the Japanese love their catalogue book of parts As for driveability/emissions... Can't really see how that's a concern with 500rwkw.

Agreed, it's really going nowhere. Such a question cannot be answered accurately.

I would never use one. So that question is irrelevant. Think about it logically - its a flexi pipe that looks to be no more than 15cm. So you disconnect it from the bottom (because, you wouldn't disconnect from the gate end, that's just dumb)... Then once you do disconnect it, all you have this loose piece of flexi piping swinging in the wind to vent "externally". You'd need to fab up some sort of mounting point and so on. It is nothing that a welded sleeve/plumb back pipe cannot do; 1. Reliably 2. Cheaper 3. Easier

lol... Ive seen some silly things on ebay, but that takes the cake for recent times.